[andy popp]

Unexpectedly, I have an opportunity to snatch a couple of hours on Dartmoor on Sunday afternoon. Coincidentally a friend had been commending Bonehill only the other day. But now I'm not so sure after the best venues thread. On the otherhand, for a moor virgin with limited time does its compactness and ease of access still make it the best bet and if so what are the must dos?

[Herbert]

If you only have a couple of hours I think Bonehill is your best bet. Saddle Tor is nearby and very accessible but has a smaller concentration of generally harder problems. At Bonehill, I'd reccomend Rippled Wall V3, the Baby Slab problems and the Arete left of the Wave V4. If you have time it would be worth wandering up to Honeybeg and Bell Tor too -  www.javu.co.uk .

As mentioned elsewhere Combeshead is better than all the above.

[Duma]

Andy - do you really mean just two hours? If so Bonehill or saddle tor are your best options. Keep in mind that Coombeshead tor (best venue, like everyone says) is the other side of the moor from all the other bouldering, and has a 15-20 minute walk in. If you're on the Plymouth side, go here, if the Exeter side, the Eastern tors will be your best bet. The Eastern venues (bonehill,saddle tor, hound tor, smallacoombe etc) are all within 5-10 minutes drive of each other and none of the big three have much of a walk in.

Things to do:
Rippled wall, The Wave, and Slopey Traverse at Bonehill
All the Abba classics at Saddle tor
Hound tor is best if you're up for a bit of highballing action - Suspension Flake, Toltec Twostep, Aerobic Wall, Limbo Dancer are all soloable and can be made kind of safeish with mats and spotters. Otherwise The Fin, Cream Traverse, and Prowed are all good and a bit less bold.
Sharp arete, Proof of Concept, Dyno from Undercuts, and the slabs on the lower slope at Coombeshead are all great, and the location is stunning.

If it was me, I'd negotiate 3 hours, go to Coombeshead, and then be late back.

[ben]

shall second the above recommendations, bonehill if you really only do have 2hrs, otherwise combshead - hanging flake, proof of concept and the variety of other nice slabs/aretes there are great. Have a mate heading bonehill way on sunday so shall point him to this thread.

Another option is Bovey woods, but guess you'd spent 1h45 wandering around lost feeling like you're in the blair witch project, followed by 15mins actually climbing

[granticus]

Bonehill probably best if you're time limited and want to clock up some mileage...

Would reccomend...  The Wave (if you find that easy then do Tsunami a traverse into this problem), Wave Arete, Rippled Wall Traverse & Rippled Wall, Slopey Traverse, The Scoop & The Left Arete of the Scoop, Lowla, Arkem.  

On the other hand if you want to clock up some classic V points and you're time limited, go to Saddle Tor and try:-
Mezzontinto (to warm up) then -> Bjorn Again (low start), Foals Chopper, Super Trooper and Dancing Queen.

Or on the other hand you could go to Combeshead...

[andy popp]

Cheers all. How much time? Depends on when I get away from Merseyside and how long the drive takes. Only have to go on to Callington afterwards so I can climb till dark. Guess I'll print off Bonehill and Coombeshead and Saddle (have always fancied Dancing Queen) and keep my options open. Granticus, I fear you overestimate my abilities.

[SA Chris]

Only have to go on to Callington afterwards so I can climb till dark.

Home of the Ginster! Avoid the factory shop.

[shurt]

might be worth bearing in mind that there is no guide for combshead on the javu website. its in the old (but still availabel) dartmoor guide. some of the areas are a bit tricky to find without the guide...

[ben]

Chris ??  - it's here...
http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/CombesheadTor/index.shtml

[granticus]

have always fancied Dancing Queen

 It is a very good quality problem and will not dissapoint.

Granticus, I fear you overestimate my abilities

At Saddle Tor the grades kick in pretty quick, Mezzontinto is an ameanable and classic highball, Bjorn Again is in a similar vein though perhaps a little trickier/scarier, then your basically talking V6 to V8 for the rest of the problems... Forgot to mention the Hidden Traverse there which is well worth doing as well!

Static climbing is the order of the day or prepare for skin shreddage... Have Fun!

[granticus]

might be worth bearing in mind that there is no guide for combshead on the javu website. its in the old (but still availabel) dartmoor guide. some of the areas are a bit tricky to find without the guide...

CombesHEAD Tor not to be confused with CombeSTONE Tor both are in the S.Devon & Dartmoor Guide but you'll find much more info on Javu.
CombeSTONE tor, however, is a contender for the bottom 20 bouldering venues in the UK, I hope noone finds their way here by mistake because it really is pants.
Confused! I am...

[SA Chris]

Static climbing is the order of the day or prepare for skin shreddage... Have Fun!

A good point. A lot of Dartmoor bouldering is about tactical management of available skin. If you are wise you can get a good session in; static climbing, precise footwork, and thinking hard about what you trying to do and how you are trying to do it before setting off on the problem pay dividends. Also choosing problems at a grade that aren't going to take too may tries make the skin last a bit longer. Choose badly and climb badly and your tips will be done in before you have even warmed up.

[granticus]

Choose badly and climb badly and your tips will be done in before you have even warmed up.

Aye! For a good day out stick within your grade band, climb with precision and control. Flailing and failing will leave you all torn up.  When trying harder problems at your limit on this kind of rock I'd reccommend limiting your attempts.  Sometimes if it's not gonna go on the day you'd be wise to walk away, train a bit more, learn a little about the problem, think about it and come back another day.

[Gus]

If you plump for Bonehill, which is defo the best bet if you're on borrowed time, I can't recommend enough wandering over to Saddle tor just across the way and having a do on "Famous Grouse", not done loads on the moors but from what I've done it stands out as the best! Think it gets 7a+ but I wouldn't argue with 7b.

Would have thought mr Popp's slab skills would enjoy "The Dark Side" at bonehill too!!

Enjoy.
Gus

[Clart]

If you plump for Bonehill, which is defo the best bet if you're on borrowed time, I can't recommend enough wandering over to Saddle tor just across the way and having a do on "Famous Grouse", not done loads on the moors but from what I've done it stands out as the best! Think it gets 7a+ but I wouldn't argue with 7b.

Would have thought mr Popp's slab skills would enjoy "The Dark Side" at bonehill too!!

Enjoy.
Gus

Famous Grouse is on Bell Tor.

If at Saddle Tor the hidden traverse is worth seeking out. It's hidden down the back of the tor, on opposite side to lowman (hence the name). There is a double toe hang rest at the beginning that you can utilise if doing laps and pretending you're Steve McClure.

Personally I always like going to Hound Tor so I can enjoy a cup of tea and burger at the Hound of the Basket Meals, lovely.

[andy popp]

Massive thanks to all

For a good day out stick within your grade band

Good advice no doubt, the only trouble is, not having been outside in ages, I really have no idea where my grade band lies at the moment. Oh well, we shall see.

[ben]

Was primo conditions - how'd you get on Andy?

[andy popp]

Lovely thanks. Not sure about primo, it was blooming hot. Went to Bonehill and had a nice time wandering round ticking. Met someone who knew Monolith and showed me round a bit. Combeshead must be great because I though Bonehill was really good.

[Andy F]

Met someone who knew Monolith and showed me round a bit.

Knowing Monolith, that's not the best reccomendation in the world