[webbo]

What the fuck is wrong with you people?
1 pair of 5.10 green lace-ups, end of.

(although there are brief periods where I have two pairs as one dies off to be seamlessly replaced by a new pair)

i bet you've only got one pair of underpants as well.

[namnok]

hi my name's steven and i'm a shoe hoarder.

in bag
1x dragons
1x large v10s for comfy downtoe shiz (only come out in blue moon)
1x tight v10s for extreme pain (may only come out in 'one last go' moments)
1x comfy tight v10 toe rubber down to rand
1x anasazi blue slippers should be wall shoes but have been neglected
1x evolv punters, general allrounder

in garage
2/3 pairs of blown blue slippers

the 5.10 projects look tempting, a replacement for the jet7s that "replaced" the v10s?

[Adam Lincoln]

9 pairs....

2 pairs of velcros
1 white stazi
2 verdes
2 t-rocks
dragons
blue slippers

[andy_e]

One pair Evolv Pontas for grit
One pair Mad Rock Hookers, yet to be able to put them on my feet, for steep stuff
One pair Scarpa Stix on their way.

[Stubbs]

In the sack:
- resoled Jet7's for warming up (resoled by rubber room in Bishop, amazing job)
- rubber top V10's that have gone a little too soft and now have a little hole in the left foot 
- rubber top V10's at the perfect stage of wear which I am almost too scared to wear
- dragons well worn - what I wear most of the time for everything (including slabs)

At home:
- evolv predators - found them good on the lime but rubbish on grit, need to dig them out again for this season.
- broken in pinks - never really got on with them, always felt a bit clunky compared to dragons
- various knackered pairs of dragons and velcros for if I ever get round to a DWS trip

Nik: you should really get some Dragons, I think you'll notice the difference.

[(woz)]

In the satch:
- womens anasazi velcro (old heel) for toe work.
- 2 pairs dragons for steep rock/heel hooks (different sizes)
- evolv pontas. like wearing a pair of used nappies on your feet (soft, warm, and not much friction)

At home:
- Boreal somethings (all black slippers). look dead cool, but shit. training boots.
- Scarpa dominators. The only boot that has ever fitted my mis-shaped heel. Special occasions.
- about 5 pairs anasazi velcros that i refuse to throw away.

[Paul B]

add two more pairs:

5.10 projects - wrong size
Dragons - right size so incredibly painful currently

[Oli]

5.10 projects

Is that a final production pair or still a prototype?
If it's the former, have they actually bothered to put a decent heel on it?

[dave]

1x pair anasazi velcros new style, almost worn out - come out for soft smearing stuff only now. Shit shoes cos they ruined the deisng with "improved" heel which peeled apart from day 1, and too long and stiff faux-leatherette velcroid straps.

1x pair anasazi velcros old style, knackered but saving them for the superior heel for my bi-annual goes on brad pit. tighter than an italian waiter's trousers.

1x anasazi blue slippers, general comfy knockabout/warmup/soloing/non-specific problem boot. got em cheap in outside a while back, £40? bargain.

1x v10s, late "rubber on the top" model, now in their twilight years. done me at least 2 seasons of badass limestone shit including most of my hardest ticks. useful on grit for toehooking and tiptoe high-angle smearing. bit too tight for any length of time in winter though. paid about £50 for them.

1x dragons, middle of their life, fantasic boot. good for everything, bought them for about £55 when the planetfear shop closed. stiffer than the v10s so better for edgeing, toepokeing, can hold their own in toehooking and at present my best heelhooking boots. i didn't really need at the time I bought em, started taking them around to break in and ended up wearing em a lot when the v10 heels were wack etc. hence still loads of life in them despite being 2 years old. best 5:10 boot since they ruined the velcros.

1x scarpa paranoias. Indoor boot only. utter dogshit. had them about 6 years, they get more uncomfortable with age, the rubber is rock hard like a hockey puck. terrible design, shit colour scheme, stupid platic piping round the laces that cracks and falls off. great for footlessing. nearly died soloing millwheel wall in them. got them for free from the mountain of unsold pairs (despite being £20 in umpteen marquee sales) in the outside warehouse and I still feel like i was robbed. annoyingly now the trend for indoor walls is to plywood i can't ever imagine wearing them out. I only still wear them because A. i refuse to wear out decent boots indoors, B. its good training since everything feels 2 grades harder, and C. i'm a tight yorkshireman. my first and last pair of scarpas.


I generally carry 3-4 pairs around with me outside. as a result most pairs last me 2-3 years, so i don't have to go through the trauma of buying new ones that often. I feel i'm in for a shock next time i need to buy some and see the prices.

[Nibile]

bouldering:
anasazi velcro,
dragons,
jet 7,
solution.
gym:
eb hulk,
comfier jet 7.
mountain:
old anasazi velcro.
soon to come:
speedster,
project.

[tommytwotone]

I generally carry 3-4 pairs around with me outside. as a result most pairs last me 2-3 years, so i don't have to go through the trauma of buying new ones that often. I feel i'm in for a shock next time i need to buy some and see the prices.

Know what you mean - now that I can't have my usual anasazi pink / velcro combo going on any more (went through my pinks last week, damn!), I had a quick look at Verdes / Whites as a replacement and got a shock. Eighty quid??

Currently investigating whether I can claim something from the state to cover the cost, as I'll be in town next week to sign on - anyone know if there's such a thing as '5.10 benefit'?

[cruisie]

hi just had a look at the 5 10 projects, they sound and look  good can you get them in the uk yet can only seem to find them on us websites

[Will Hunt]

campussing.

 

What happened to "Check your technique at the door..."

[robertostallioni]

Will, i believe the quote should be

foot-on campooosing

I'll start at the beginning. Wouldn't it be great if you could separate your climbing into training, focusing on fatiguing the body, and performance, where you go "all french"  and utilise all that crushing power along with harnessed continental technique.

You need one of these, Will.

The french switch


My shed is a shrine to my 'pipes'. I keep my footwear simple yet trustworthy. On the foot on campussing board the  drill is so simple you can go much deeper into the forearm pump than with other shampoo's.

Proviso
I also use my shed for steep climbing technique so ignore all the above

[sheffieldpasserby]

OK guys, I didn't want to start a fuss and start a new thread, so thought I'd just crash here, as it's vaguely related....

Basically I need your help/recommendation/opinion:

Scarpa Veloce http://www.rockrun.com/products-Veloce-LV_FT-RB-VELV.htm
or
Scarpa Sphinx http://www.rockrun.com/products-Sphinx-LV_FT-RB-SPXL.htm [Has arched sole]

I've not a clue whether arched sole would be good or not, or whether it would not do my feet any favours.  I like to get my feet into the crannies.
I tried going to the shops but there weren't any Sphinxs to try. 

Reviews/advice/experience would be greatly appreciated  , thank you   

[slackline]

I've not a clue whether arched sole would be good or not, or whether it would not do my feet any favours.  I like to get my feet into the crannies.
I tried going to the shops but there weren't any Sphinxs to try. 

Reviews/advice/experience would be greatly appreciated  , thank you   

Arched soles tend to aid in forcing you to point your toes and as such are useful on steep roofs or anywhere else you toe-hook lots.

[Will Hunt]

Aggressive arches like that do what slackers said. Don't expect to get much smearing out of them. Better used on steep ground. I hear that for hooking and locking into pockets and small holds on overhanging ground the arch is the way to go and it's like having hands on your feet.

[milatchi]

What the fuck is wrong with you people?

We've been feminised.

A pair of old BOREAL Ballets.
Soon I'm going to buy another pair BOREAL's for bouldering.

[milatchi]

dig out my special box from the attic wherein I found pairs of top quality rock boots including Boreal Fires

Not to double post,
but could you post a picture of the BOREAL Fire? I've heard them mentioned a lot but never actually seen them.
If you can, thanks.

[mrjonathanr]

Milatchi: Jerry's biog has pics of Fires, sort of beige with red sticker on ankle.
Sheffieldpasserby: as the Sphinx is the lady Spectro, I'm not convinced they'll have an especially strong curve in the arch. They look wild, but the Spectro settles into an essentially flat edging shoe with a spring in it's step. Not used mine much, but think they're decent.

[cofe]

just found this pic of fires on 'google':

[tommytwotone]

Word, I note with interest that the Foundry shop has some Projects in, though sadly not in my size...anyone had a try of these yet, any good?

[Fultonius]

Even if the Projects are amazing, do you really want a shoe with half the normal amount of rubber - not going to last long!

[dave]

chances are if fiveten's normal build quality is anything to go by then the rubber wearing through is unlikely to happen before they fall apart anyway!

[Fultonius]

 

I feel like I'm doing something wrong, as I only own 1 pair of wearable greens (brand new), 1 pair of unwearable worn-out greens, 1 pair of unwearable worn out velcros and a really rubbish pair of scarpas that I bought for trad but are so rubbish I just can't wear them.

In fact, they're so rubbish I've climbed harder in approach shoes!

Should I start buying?