Cheeks 'N' Beaks (Read 24199 times)

nik at work · January 11, 2009, 07:25:00 pm

The crux starts when the holds stop

and no the landing aint great. But if someone could be arsed to shift the tree stump and then level the ground it would make a nice boulder problem. You could probably drive a mini-digger up there from the pub quite easily (no that isn't a serious suggestion).

Good that someone has been trying these things. This appears to be building up to something of a classic season of grit brilliance so maybe, just maybe...

Kingy · January 11, 2009, 07:29:36 pm

Quote from: nik at work on January 11, 2009, 07:16:45 pm

I'm afraid I'm contractualy bound to ask if you tried anything else while in the area

I did have a snoop round. Was impressed by Nik's Wall, looks heinous! Greenbeard looked a bit dank TBH and rather distressingly, 3 inches of the undercut flake on Spudd Webb appeared to have recently snapped off - don't know if this affects it at all. BTW where is Moon Tan?

The relevant cable for the mobile phone is currently being searched for, so the vid might be up soon.

Bonjoy · January 11, 2009, 07:45:19 pm

Moontan is on the left end of the edge rather than in the quarry. It's a blackish wall left of a steep corner crack. If you are familiar with the routes it's just beneath Exit and Jaded.

Fiend · January 11, 2009, 07:47:16 pm

Nik, one could cut off some of the roots to make it a bit more amenable, I reckon six full pads and two spotters and it would start looking feasible. The quarries were in good nick the other day when the edges were covered in frost, and evidently good nick today when it was all a bit pissy. A classic season of Rivelin Quarry brilliance....maybe....

Kingy, Moontan is on the main edge, at the left of the main area, the crimpy wall just left of Kremlin Crack.

oh *snap* to you to bonusjoyus

Kingy · January 11, 2009, 08:09:06 pm

cheers guys, another one to go for!

nickrabb · January 11, 2009, 09:59:12 pm

nickrabb · January 11, 2009, 10:02:14 pm

As requested, Kingy, wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought it would be.
I take it you crushed 'Happy Campus' too?
Good climbing today, hopefully see you out again soon.

Monolith · January 11, 2009, 10:06:38 pm

Am really psyched for CnB, good work Bonjoy.

dave · January 11, 2009, 10:12:23 pm

if anyone wants the beta for another way, start RH on obvious undercut at lip and lefthand on an undercut pocket-pinch combo hidden under the lip. from there RH goes up to the good corner sidepull, then Lh onto the little lower sidepull (now you're on the same holds as lovejoy but an easier setup), then put left foot on the jug block under the lip, right roof on obvious edge/smear above the lip, and pull/push for the good rail, jobs a good un.

Kingy · January 11, 2009, 10:16:21 pm

Quote from: nickrabb on January 11, 2009, 10:02:14 pm

As requested, Kingy, wasn't nearly as difficult as I thought it would be.
I take it you crushed 'Happy Campus' too?
Good climbing today, hopefully see you out again soon.

Cheers Nick thanks for sorting it so quickly, yeah got HC too although 'Happy right heel on edge' is probably a more appropriate title!

JC · January 12, 2009, 12:00:01 pm

Didn't anyone else top-out or was it just me? Shit myself trying to climb down as it was wet and slippery at the time.

dave · January 12, 2009, 12:01:51 pm

i went up to the jugs then jumped off. was all damp above when i first did it, infact even the jugs were wet. I was once there when cofe topped out happy campus, took him about 40minutes. life's too short.

Bonjoy · January 12, 2009, 02:30:35 pm

Kingy - Aha, you make it look really obvious. Can't believe I didn't try it that way. The meat of the difficulty for me was getting my left foot on a tiny edge 4 inches above my left hand. Why am I such a technical retard when it comes to FAs $:-\$

? I always thought I was pretty good at finding the most deviously efficient beta on things. Seems not!

Kingy · January 12, 2009, 03:03:41 pm

Quote from: Bonjoy on January 12, 2009, 02:30:35 pm

Kingy - Aha, you make it look really obvious. Can't believe I didn't try it that way. The meat of the difficulty for me was getting my left foot on a tiny edge 4 inches above my left hand. Why am I such a technical retard when it comes to FAs $:-\$ ? I always thought I was pretty good at finding the most deviously efficient beta on things. Seems not!

Don't worry about it! It took me a little while to figure it out myself, that right foothold on the lip is pretty pants and is quite difficult to get your foot onto. I think the most important thing is the eye for a line in the first place and getting the thing climbed, everything else is just minor details!

Jaspersharpe · January 13, 2009, 01:14:45 pm

No Kingy you're wrong. I think we should castigate Bonjoy for intentionally inflating the grade just to gain publicity and sponsorship from these people.

http://www.geese.cc/

a dense loner · January 13, 2009, 01:24:45 pm

and castigate kingy for suggesting that bonjoy has an eye for a line. lowrider aside

Kingy · January 13, 2009, 01:26:55 pm

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on January 13, 2009, 01:14:45 pm

No Kingy you're wrong. I think we should castigate Bonjoy for intentionally inflating the grade just to gain publicity and sponsorship from these people.

http://www.geese.cc/

I wonder what happened to the goose theme, running like a golden thread through all these new boulder problems? ??? $:-\$

Tommy · January 16, 2009, 10:48:18 pm

Quote from: Bonjoy on January 12, 2009, 02:30:35 pm

Boffwidth 6b – The Offwidth roof crack succumbs to laybacking and barring (no bridging out right). A tiny bit hemmed in but otherwise excellent. Jamming it all the way would be very hard indeed!

Ha ha, red rag to a bull!

Went out today and did the crack in a pure jamming way (Thanks R-man for the directions), which was indeed quite a struggle! Really nice problem (although pretty damp today after the rain) and well worth it. Thanks for first ascenionist taking the effort to clean it up in the first place.

I'd say if you're into the whole offwidthing thing, it's about Font 7a in a pure jamming style. You'll feel like a right hero! It's very similar to the way in which Ray's Roof climbs so possibly good practice for anyone??

Here's a quick low quality clip for those interested.

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dave · January 16, 2009, 10:58:18 pm

for a crack climber you're using a lot of arete there.

Tommy · January 16, 2009, 11:40:36 pm

Quote from: dave on January 16, 2009, 10:58:18 pm

for a crack climber you're using a lot of arete there.

Yeah, I know. But hey, what's a little bit of cheating here and there eh?

r-man · March 07, 2009, 07:05:58 pm

Tit!

I refer to myself, because having just watched Ted's beta I now realise I was trying completely the wrong thing, despite being certain I remembered the sequence in the video...

On to my second query then - how does one proceed once at the right hand crimp on Happy Campus? (having just done the campus move). Seemed easy enough to get there, but then I was a bit stumped.

Also tried to demonstrate Beak no Weevil, but it wasn't happening. Anyone else done this? I suspect it may be harder than 7a+.

cofe · March 07, 2009, 08:06:02 pm

Quote from: r-man on March 07, 2009, 07:05:58 pm

On to my second query then - how does one proceed once at the right hand crimp on Happy Campus? (having just done the campus move). Seemed easy enough to get there, but then I was a bit stumped.

seem to remember getting a left toe on round the corner and then coming into a LH guppy, right toe on, RH to good edge. know some people get LH guppy, right (?) foot on and go over again with LH to good edge.

dave · March 07, 2009, 08:14:11 pm

Quote from: r-man on March 07, 2009, 07:05:58 pm

On to my second query then - how does one proceed once at the right hand crimp on Happy Campus? (having just done the campus move). Seemed easy enough to get there, but then I was a bit stumped.

I've never managed to get any further than that crimp, despite being fine to get there (skin permitting). the guppy beta just doesn't work at all for me, i may as well hold my left hand behind my back and try and 1-arm my way to the jug. the other thing i've tried is matching on the crimp rail, but still can't seem to do anything with my feet to go for the jug which works. if you find any good non-guppy beta i'll be glad to hear it.