[Adam Lincoln]

Need distracting from work!

For me.

Focus - Hueco Tanks. (Id seen it on the best of the west dvd, and thought it looked amazing and high and that i'd be too much of a pussy to ever do it. Its amazing what having a certain hot female competition climber spotting you will do to your performance!)

Brad Pit - Stanage. (Ever since i started climbing its the one problem i always wanted to do. When i was a kid i'd try and pull on the moves whenever i went past. Even in summer! I tried it on and off for years later, never quite being able to do it. Then a combination of amazing weather and a dragon heal made me realise the dream!

Power Of Landjager - Hueco. (This is on the list for so many reasons. Its the main reason i took a second trip across the atlantic for having come so close to it on last day of previous trip. Its one of the best lines on Hueco, and also it was a first at the grade for me)

[dave]

my three:

that one at whatsitsname's crag

The one with that move on it, you know.

and of course the obvious thingymajig at some crag or other.

[LucyB]

my three:

that one at whatsitsname's crag

The one with that move on it, you know.

and of course the obvious thingymajig at some crag or other.

That's just spooky  Those are my 3 too...

[GraemeA]

Lucy, I thought your fave 3 were

The, Stanage Plantation
Green, also at Stanage Plantation
Traverse, guess where this one is!!

[Duma]

Tetris, 4th cloud - it was midsummer so arrived with no expectations, it's on probably my favourite block of grit, fine grained grit is amazing.
Multipass, Drei Zinnen - big and impressive, one of my favourite areas in font, gorgeous day.
Iceberg, Isatis - took 4 or 5 sessions so longer than I've spent on anything else, nice progression through the gradually longer versions.

[Paul B]

I can't instantly think of three maybe because this one stands out more than most:

Noir Desir - easy for some I'm sure. Usually I'd hiss and spit if someone described a problem such as this; slopey dishes, heel's, nigh on vertical etc. It wouldn't yield to brute force and I had to learn a lot about each body position and the climbing subtleties that I'm pretty sure made me learn a lot more than I had through the previous X numbers of hours spent climbing eslewhere. As soon as I applied what I'd learnt it went easily, then again and I'm pretty sure I've got it wired now.

One more is coming to mind:

Le Nombralistes - a slab, a f*ckin slab and I was loving it. Potentially because Nat and I could try the same problem and REALLY climb together which up until now has been difficult at times.

and to a lesser extent:

Gargantoit - It'd been on my lists for a while but I'd never got around to going and looking at it. L'etranger planted it firmly in my christmas get around to doing list and TBH it looked like a stunning line. I was shocked when I got to it at how high it was compared to how it looks in the footage. It made for some great climbing.

[Fultonius]

Kinda depends what mood I'm in, but right now I'd say:

1. Pongo, Dumbarton. Total classic and one of the first problems that I'd always considered "impossible" that, over the years and attempts became "possible" and finally "cruisable".

I just love the moves on it - jump start, powerfull steep moves, cheeky toe-hook and smooth, dynamic boost to the jugs and a tricky top-out that never gets any easier. Awesome!

2. Pump up the jam, Coire a Ghrunda, Skye

Not actually completed this problem yet - one day! This beast singlehandedly taught me how to jam! A seminal moment in my crack climbing career.

The final one is difficult - I'd like to say Mugsy Tarverse at Dumby as it was breaking into new ground and it's probably been my longest seige, but I've already got one from Dumby so I'm going to say:

3. Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton 

3. L'Oblique at Rocher aux Sabots - first 7a in the forest (for me), took three trips and lots of skin. I can still feel the moves now and it's six months since I was last there. Not a classic, but memorable for me. A realisation of how important practice, technique, mental focus and conditions are. When I finally did it I was not as strong as when I first tried it, but I was a much better climber.

 

[TobyD]

White Rastafarian, V3 Joshua Tree.
did it first thing one morning on a wander out from the campground, just went to look for it really, as i had assumed a big pile of pads would be a good idea (it's pretty tall) it just looked so inspiring i pulled my boots on and did it straight away, barely realising that i'd totally committed myself until i got to the thought provoking top out at 25feet or so above an awkward boulder.
Onde Choc,  7b Apremont
on a perfect dry icy cold sunny day, one february.
West Side Story 7b+ Burbage
just a brilliant boulder problem in every way.

[Andy Harris]

That’s not an easy question and impossible to distil it to the top 3 but these are up there. If it were routes I could make it more specific. Apologies they’re all bigger numbers but my early memory is starting to fade.

NES part 2, Magic Wood
I don’t do sieges, I get too bored which is probably why I’ve never done anything that hard. However I made an exception for this. Saw this on my 1st trip to magic wood and even though it’s chipped it looked pretty bloody amazing on this mad polished boulder right next to the river. It took me 3 separate visits. I found the 1st move really hard as I needed press the 1st move past my full lock. Unfortunately I could then do this move 20 times on the trot but then continuously fell off the huge left span. I fought so hard, knackered my knee, even did it ground up and eventually did it on my own above 12 pads on a chilly eve. Exhausting.

Vienna, Bowden
Did this in 1994 or so on my 1st trip to the Northumberland. This trip was the start of a love affair with the county and I got the 7th ascent (I think). I got so close on day 1 and ticked it 1st go next day. Prob my 1st of the grade (in it’s original state).

La Nave Va, Cresciano
Washed Malc & Jerry crush this during the making of Stonelove and I couldn’t move on the hard bit. Ticked it last year as part of my best day ever. Such a beautiful problem which is so totally fingery and burly at the same time even though it’s only just vertical. Even managed to static it into submission. Made all the sweeter by Tyler stating it was “the hardest 7c+ I’ve ever done”. That’ll be an upgrade then!

Cetait Demain
Remebered trying this with John Welford years ago when I was crap on slopers. I just couldn’t fathom how you could hold the 1st sidepull and generate pull off it. Couple with it being the magical 1st grade 8 in the forest and it’s quite special. Years later I got through the crux 1st move 20-30 times and continuously fell off the next reachy move, I was just so strung out I couldn’t work it out. Then as is usual in font a  subtle change of the foot and it’s in the bag, then again, then again later for the camera. A true Taj Mahal tick of boulders.

[butters]

NES part 2, Magic Wood

...I fought so hard, knackered my knee, even did it ground up and eventually did it on my own above 12 pads on a chilly eve. Exhausting.

Did you carry all 12 pads in yourself?

bluebrad

[Andy Harris]

with my chicken thighs you must be joking. I found them behind the Tricky boulder and would stagger back and forth across the rocks. There were 2 enormous metolius crash pads that I could just about walk although I fell over several times due to how big they were.

imagine doing this old school with a t-shirt to stand on. E8 anyone.

[corniceman]

1) Pinches wall match box with left hand heel hook to jug
2) Pinches wall match box with right rock up to jugs
3) Pinches wall Slopey pinch below match box with right hand, cross to match box with left and pop to jugs


just 3 amazing problems that cant be beaten

[Sloper]

Crescent arete, probably because it was the first real (as in integrity of line) boulder problem I ever did.

Sans pieds (blue 1 at Cuvier), because it was my first problem in Font.

West Side Story, because it took me 12 years and I did it above a perfect cloud inversion early one weekday morning when I should have been at work reviewing prison write offs.

[jonjon]

Brad Pit - done one deserted evening at the Plantation - a great feeling looking at that jug then hitting and hanging it.

The Arete at Dame Jouane - need I say more, one of the most essential cover ticks about.

Super Prestat -  the White Circuit at Cuvier, 'when a man is tired of Cuvier, a man is tired of life'

The feeling of doing these problems will never fade (i don't even know what the middle one is actual called)

[Johnny Brown]

L'angle parfait. And it is.

Three I've enjoyed too, though I was disappointed at Prestat being an eliminate.

[Three Nine]

Demon Wall Roof, Almscliffe - as i wanted to do it for years and never thought to try it as it would be too hard, then did it in an hour

Horror Arete, Bridestones - i never thought i'd be brave enough

Proof of Concept, Combeshead - failed on it one year, crushed it the next

[Doylo]

drink driving-hardest and just took soooo long.                                flashpoint-by far best FA-ace!                                  alphane moon-most epic holiday prob and one of my favs.

[slackline]

The Times Cryptic Crossword No. 4268 - First time I completed a Times Cryptic crossword.
Frozen Bubble Level 86 - A tough cookie, took a long time to get past this, but once cracked it opened doors to whole new range of possibilities.
Picture This from the Independent (Sat 3rd September 2005) - A truly inspiring topic of computer geekism, perfect!

 

[tomtom]

From the more moderate grades...

1. Otley Wall, Caley roadside. pad, pad, pad, lunge scrabble.. first English 6a 
2. Right Hand Twin, Slipstones. Lovely moves on a great day..
3. Dolphin Belly Slap.. first problem I ever worked properly. Took about ten trips, was well above my grade at the time.. finally went while it was gently snowing

[mark]

Hake. I was young, I was drunk, it was all Grimer's fault.
The Thirty Foot Slab Finish to Swiss Miss and the Smith Myth. Go to Smith, do Chain Reaction, discover that everything else there is drilled or crimpy so find a small but steep buttress and play on it.
Crescent Arete. I may well climb this 1000 times in my life. And every single time it will make me smile.

[granticus]

la Boucherie @ Bas Cuvier (in it's broken form) - because it is in Font, it was a break into a new high grade for me and I flashed it after being given beta! (It was also the begining of one of those best days ever....)

Ache Ball @ Hartland Quay (Devon) - because it is the first problem I've made a concerted effort to project, I completed it alone and it was the first time in my life I had bouldering close to home.

Time and Tide @ Lynmouth East (Exmoor Coast) - because it seemed unlikely to start with, it took 3 years of efforts and repeated visits/ failures, because it is a 1 move wonder off some amazing slopers and because I beat everyone else to it.

[Bonjoy]

1. Raped by a Kestrel - Congleton Knoll

2. Burning Lark Sunset - Hepstow Brow

3. Trapped in Crow's Craws - Burbage East

[nik at work]

Wheres Congleton Knoll Bonnos?

Dunno my three, I'll have a ponder.

[Adam Lincoln]

Wheres Congleton Knoll Bonnos?

Dunno my three, I'll have a ponder.

I'll start you off.

Nik's Wall   

[andy_e]

1. Demon Wall Roof, Alsmcliff - took me 10 sessions and it was my hardest problem at the time. I still love it to bits today and do it every time I go up there. Beautiful.

2. Doing New Jerusalem and Dreamland on the same, crazily weathered day. There was horizontal hail, rain, snow, sun, wind, everything. Two fantastic problems, two fantastic crags, one fantastic day.

3. Cortomaltese (the 6b+ way) - just a great problem, not hard, but I spent ages spooning everything up before doing it on my first trip to font. Fantastic.

[Johnny Brown]

1. Raped by a Kestrel - Congleton Knoll

A dissappointing problem at a surprising crag. Just because you (think you) did it first. The other two are good though, I'll give you that.

[Bonjoy]

1. Raped by a Kestrel - Congleton Knoll

...Just because you (think you) did it first...

If you're referring to Somebody's Fool's 'ascent', dabbing a passing cow mid-crux is unlucky, but still a dab in my book!

[Somebody's Fool]

You pair of cunts. I never touched that cow.

[mini]

Nigh on impossible to chose just three, a bit like picking your best three films of all time, they can change from day to day. So today these shall be my top three;

1. Inertia Reel Traverse at the Roaches - only took four years of work to do the crux for the first time, then it only took another four years to finally tick it. Guess you can call that a bit of siege! The day I finally did it was topped of by ringing AndiT two minutes after ticking it to find out he had just done his new E7(?) 7a route over on Hen clouds. We had a good day followed by a grand night out 

2. Barry Sheen at Gardoms - in contrast to the above it is probably the quickest of the harder problems I've ever done in one session, and after convincing myself I'd be way to short inth' arm to span that sloper.

3. Vienna at Bowden - first go of the day after a previous session a month prior. Ain't they sweeter when that happens?

[BenF]

Nigh on impossible to chose just three, a bit like picking your best three films of all time, they can change from day to day. So today these shall be my top three;

Indeed, the impossible question and one that I often battle with on long drives, sleepless nights and trips away with friends.  I've pondered off and on since Adam posed the question and feel compelled to simply blurt out the following problems which appear frequently in my considerations.

Brad's Arete, Eagle Tor.  I worked hard to get this a long time ago on a winter evening and it was the first time that I'd climbed the grade.  I very nearly did the sitter too (back when it got a daft high grade) and this opened my eyes to the fact that I could potentially boulder much harder than I had previously managed.  Gradually I learnt the techniques of working a hard problem but it was with this problem that the process started.  For my sins I'd not done much bouldering at that point and shortly afterwards I left the UK to live in New Zealand where I got my bouldering shit together.

Ocean, Quantum Field, Castle Hill.  Once the heat of summer disappeared I noticed this beautiful lump of stone.  It is just a wonderful problem as I'm sure others will testify, with pretty much no proper holds - just smearing, laying away and balance.  Not the hardest thing around but it has always summed up Castle Hill climbing for me (and not a pocket in sight).

Shock Horror Slab, Stanage.  Another beautiful problem that to my annoyance was over in a flash but gets climbed everytime I pass close by.  Technical and fairly high, with lovely views as you stroll up the upper half.  Perfect grit climbing I think.  My girlfriend climbed it the other day and I was just as happy as she topped out as it proved that she CAN climb on grit and enjoy it (my work here is done). 

[J.P]

Yep, to pick out three is very difficult Top 10 would be a lot easier... this is todays though:

Bach Block Brione - best rock I´ve ever climbed on. Great friends, good wibe. Perfect.
Rubis sur l´Ongle  - Not so much because of the line itself (though it is good!) But first of the grade (I think) and topping out in pouring rain just before the crimps got soaked - can´t beat that!
L´Aerodynamite  - As a first timer in Font many years ago I remember standing under it thinking "how the hell do you get up this thing! What to jump for there are no holds!" The day i did that was a good day.

[Vitamin K]

1. Hanks Wall - A lot harder back in the day before the LH crimp broke off. Basically I started climbing (circa '82) found out that Brownstones was the place to get better locally and made a beeline for what was the hardest thing there at the time. Got to the point where I could pull on the holds and that was it. A beautiful wall of rock with improbably tiny holds (or so they appeared at the time) and just great moves - now look at it; more eliminates than you can shake your stick at. Kids eh?

2. Horror Arete @ Bridies - on my lonesome with a kids play mat to land on. A real buzz for early one Sunday morning a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away...

3. L'Aerodynamite - what a beginning to the my best Font trip ever. last problem on day 1 - oh yes. Ditto the above post. Saw this on the Real Thing and vowed that I would do this problem before turning 40 and I did.

Hard to pick 3, but those are the ones that come to mind today.

[GCW]

now look at it; more eliminates than you can shake your stick at. Kids eh?

Weird, I don't really like Hank's as it trashed my skin.
It may be getting harder again as bits keep snapping off the footholds.
May see you there at some point.....

[Eddies]

The Staffordshire Flyer – Doxeys Pool. Going back a few years but this problem used to look like a huge futuristic roof to me when I started climbing and was my nemesis for a year or two until I took the time to get stuck into it and found it wasn’t really that hard at all.
The flyer move still gives me a semi!

Stall Arete – Gib Torr. I hated it at first but was pretty much forced into giving it ago, soon grew to love it and after about a dozen sessions bagged it at dusk after work late one October a couple of years ago. I didn’t use the big dish at the top either…And seeing Ben Moon in one of his vids describing it as ‘fucking desperate’ made it all the more precious!

Cortomaltese – Cuvier. On my first trip to font I walked into the heart of Cuvier and loved the look of it instantly, got my mates to try it with me, they both did it that afternoon but I went away empty handed and with both my elbows in agony. Couldn’t stop thinking about it all night so insisted we dropped by on our way home the next morning. No warm-up just straight on it and after 15 mins and half a dozen ‘Just one last go guys please’ I was pumping my fist from the top of the boulder, a real YYFY moment for me.

[Mike Tyson]

Staffs flyer, brilliant problem I'll agree.

[whispering nic]

Ahhhh

Childs Play at Bowden when it was still tricky

Crazy mantel from a sitter at t'cliff leading on to best day ever

Ange naif,part of other best day ever

[Mike Tyson]

Number 1 for me has to be Picnic Sarcastic SS at the Bowderstone. It took me years to do and seemed so far out of my reach I'd never do it but finally did it and boy what a feeling. Oh yeah Jim hasn't done it either which is a bonus 

Number 2 was the Egg problem at Cratcliffe. Wicked problem that purplexed me until I worked out the moves.

Number 3 was a cool little problem at Bowden that inspired me to start the non-quality bouldering videos thread. Felt nails but then just clicked into place. Mint.

[slackline]

Number 2 was the Egg problem at Cratcliffe. Wicked problem that purplexed me until I worked out the moves.

  I need to be able to use my "third eye" to see where to get my foot 

[Blunk]

You pair of cunts. I never touched that cow.

   My nominee for best post of 2009.

[n_man]

1. Raped by a Kestrel - Congleton Knoll

2. Burning Lark Sunset - Hepstow Brow

3. Trapped in Crow's Craws - Burbage East

Love to know why? Two crags I've not heard of and a 'funny one' (personal view not meant to be offensive) at Burbage East.

[Andy F]

Tough to say but:

Horror Arete. Amazing line, amazing finish.

Mothership reconnection. Brillliant climbing, part of a very memorable day/night

Hart's one handed. FA, took me a while to figure it out, everyone else who's done it rate's it as well. Which is nice.

[dave]

Hart's one handed. FA, took me a while to figure it out, everyone else who's done it rate's it as well. Which is nice.

sounds good, I'm surprised you've never mentioned this before.

[hairich]

1. bannana finger

2. la marie rose

3. the terrace.

[SA Chris]

This has caused so much head scratching.....

1) Snake Bite, Area 51 Joe's Valley. Utah in June. Dawn starts or no climbing at all. Got there at first light and did a load of probs before the temps started to rise, had a couple of goes on this and could figure out what to do, but getting sweatier, rock getting warmer, and it's the last day at the place. And then it all comes together! Plus the guy who I was with fed on the psyche and got it too. YYFY.

2) Highball slab on Blue Circuit (no idea of number) at bas Cuvier. One of the first probs i ever did at Font, and the start of an ongoing love affair.

3) Full Traverse - The Wilds - Joburg. Probably first went here a couple of months after I started climbing in South Africa, and could do the moves up to the start of the traverse. Measured progress by getting furth over the years, and finally did it after about 4 years on and off.

4) Curvature - Castle Hill. First day there - flash, after fighting tooth and nail and nearly failng on the mantel, it was soooo close.

(yes it's 4, deal with it).

[Vitamin K]

now look at it; more eliminates than you can shake your stick at. Kids eh?

Weird, I don't really like Hank's as it trashed my skin.
It may be getting harder again as bits keep snapping off the footholds.
May see you there at some point.....

I just love the pain! Did this 10 times in a row on one session - I lack imagination.

[BenF]

4) Curvature - Castle Hill. First day there - flash, after fighting tooth and nail and nearly failng on the mantel, it was soooo close.

Oh yeah, now that's a beautiful problem.  On my first day after wandering around bemused at the sheer scale of the place I found and then did the Lung Dyno and that's always had a special place in my heart.

[tim palmer]

1.  Inertia reel traverse, Roaches: I had a similar experience to Mini with this one, took ages but it was worth it. Technical sustained climbing on a great feature.

2.  Surprise Du Chef, Ailefroid: The perfect problem, commiting moves on good rock with just enough height to be a bit scary without being dangerous.

3.  No troublems, Squamish: This was particularly memorable not because it is that classic or even that hard, but because as you top out on this roof problem the ground drops away under the boulder, leaving a 20 foot drop on to jagged rocks: it was at this point I decided to cut loose and almost soil myself as i struggled to hold on.

[Johnny Brown]

2. Burning Lark Sunset - Hepstow Brow

Bagged this today, magic! Not sure about all time top3 but I'd do it again tomorrow.

[Somebody's Fool]

Witnesses etc?

[Will Hunt]

Hart's one handed. FA, took me a while to figure it out, everyone else who's done it rate's it as well. Which is nice.

sounds good, I'm surprised you've never mentioned this before.

[Bonjoy]

2. Burning Lark Sunset - Hepstow Brow

Bagged this today, magic! Not sure about all time top3 but I'd do it again tomorrow.

Nice! I've fully got Brow psyche at the moment. Will try and dig a pic of BLS out if I can find one.

[Fiend]

Dear god where to begin. Firstly despite being a trad punter I've done enough bouldering that I'm struggling to choose. Secondly "memorable" hmmm I can't really remember stuff. So a random selection:

El Poussif, Font - amazing problem, beautiful in many ways, also saw it on my very first day with Jim and Dense, and finally tried it and did it a couple of years later.

A Little Sparkle, Guisecliffe - amazing problem, a lovely mid-winter day questing on my lonesome in darkest Yorkshire, so cold my shoelaces were freezing.

Think Tank, Castle Hill - great problem, perfect pushy squirmy Castle Hill style, and wonderful to be climbing in such an amazing area.

[woody]

1. ulysses
2. simbas pride
3. angels share
 

[tommytwotone]

Thought this would be good 1k-th post:

Gorilla Warfare, Curbar:

Not so much a lovely problem, just a great feeling when I did it. It was a long term project as I have no stamina / power, took ages to get. Also it nearly cost me my ankles after I broke a hold off the top practicing the topout.

Did it on a day when I had a mate up from the smoke, took him 'show him the Curbar' circuit, spent ages going on about the battle I was having with GW, then promptly did it first go... 

La Marie Rose, Cuvier:

Crap crag, lovely problem. Did it during a hot August day, then went back the following year in Feb and found it 10 times easier.

Crescent Arete, Stanage

Cos it's just the best arete going. I've also done it one handed - do I get a prize?

[220bpm]

1. Arete de Zmutt, Chamarande (http://bleau.info/chamarande/6958.html) - Easy climbing up to a good hold, then a committing highish slap for the lip of the overhang. Match, cut loose, heelhook the top and mantle out. Brilliant problem at one of Fonts less frequented venues.

2. Sneak by Night, Glen Lednock - Beautiful rounded arete, pretty tricky to figure out the moves. Perfect winter morning all on my tod at a new venue. Worked it for much longer than I would normally spend on a problem and was rewarded by unlocking the sequence and a power scream topout 

3. Extended Crucifix Traverse (Low), Kyloe In - Butch start jamming under an overhang to reach a strange wall with razor crimps and tiny flutings. Technical moves all the way along to a sneaky insecure rest using an egpytian. Crux moves at the end (staying low) spat me off a few times until I found the rest, then success. A full afternoons work.

I don't really session things at all, got the concentration span of a 2 yr old with ADHD. Personally, it says a lot that all these problems made me take the time to work them without ever feeling that was exactly what I was doing 

I've also no idea how Science Friction and Le Hareng Saur fail to make my top 3, they were 1 & 2 for a good while  and genuine laugh out lolrofpms material.