[Percy B]

Does anybody know if the projects on the block between the Psycho, Adrenaline Rush boulder and the Crystal Method boulder have been done or not? Spent a while on the right hand one today and was making some headway, although ultimately am still about ten pence short....! Nice problem, and a damn good workout for the left shoulder. Not sure I will be able to move my arms tomorrow though........ :wink:

[Percy B]

Sorry.....when I said I was trying the right hand problem, I meant the left hand one! A common climbers mistake......

[Pantontino]

Percy, I always thought that project No 6 was CM (low fingery jug, then knack all of any use to a slopey top out). The blunt arete to the right is obvious, but I'm not sure if it has been done. I believe Andy Swann will know the answer to this (or indeed any other questions you might have about Caley, Almscliffe or Brimham). Try the Leeds Wall for a contact. Mind you if you kick up a fuss they'll all be on it straightaway!

Another obscure but minor classic lies in the gully to the right (i.e. the left wall of the Pyscho block). From a sds, deadpoint up to an ace sloper, match and top out. for some reason Al missed this out of the guide - its an outrage, it is clearly one of the best micro problems in the whole of Yorkshire! The fact that it is easy and probably covered in green slime should not put you off.

[Percy B]

Thanks for the info Si. Crystal Method is the problem left of the project I'm on about (I think). Given no name and V8 in the Rockfax bouldering guide but the Yorks grit website has a photo that looks just like it and gives it the CM name and V7. The block just right has two fine problems/projects on it but I can't find any info as to whether or not they've been done yet. Either way, I'm psyched to give them both some more attention!
I hope the line I was trying isn't Crystal Method, otherwise both me and Vickers best get our coats.........!

[Pantontino]

Percy, you're confusing me a little, but having looked at the Ygrit site I think I know what the deal is. CM is the problem I described on the upper block just left of Pyscho, with the right hand 'possible project' line.

The problem featured in the B/W photo on Ygrit.com is something that I may have done the first ascent of in the early 90s (I don't know of any prior claims, but this is Yorkshire after all and there is always some grumpy twat eager to burst yer balloon). There is a harder left hand version of this that my mate did, pulling on with your right hand in the pocket and moving up past a hideous small dink. Both problems are a bit contrived though, because it is probably easier to just jump for the top. I can't remember how the rock is featured, but a sit down start would perhaps sort this out, albeit at a much harder grade.

If you're looking for new lines (and I know you always are) I'm sure there is potential for something between Rabbits Paw Wall and Welsh Rarebit/Waite. Probably quite hard though.

Or closer to home there is always the direct start to NTBTA - I can't believe this is not being seiged into submission, but then again the Sheffield strong boys are hardly the most dynamic crew are they. Is The Ace still unrepeated?....

[jonP]

There are two boulders below & left of Pysco/Adrenaline Rush, and I've used the name "Crystal Method" to cover both of them, because that's the only named problem thereabouts.

The right-hand, higher boulder has two problems.  The groove starting from a huge jug is the Crystal Method, V9 - I imagine this is what Percy is talking about.  See http://www.geocities.com/yorkshireboulder/database.htm for a brief description.  The arete right of this hasn't been claimed to my knowledge, but I'd be suprised if it hasn't been done.

The left-hand boulder has the problems Si talked about.  The B&W photo on the website is the dyno from the pocket & crap edge to the top.   There's also the left arete (V5) and the right arete (no idea of the grade, probably V6-V8), both from sit-starts.

[Percy B]

Cheers folks. I think that has cleared it up then. I was trying Crystal Method, but feel better about failing on it now I know its a Tim Clifford V9 (possibly the Yorkshire equivalent of Welford 7b+ in the Peak, but harder)!
I was having a hard time imagining that the locals had left a line that good undone.... :wink:

[dave]

Or closer to home there is always the direct start to NTBTA - I can't believe this is not being seiged into submission, but then again the Sheffield strong boys are hardly the most dynamic crew are they. Is The Ace still unrepeated?....

You've mentioned this NTBTA thing before. Now i might not have the eye for a line that someone like , say, Gary Gibson has, but i can't see any way up here:



i take it you mean left of the guy, right of CT. From what i remember, ans ffrom what i see in that photo, theres a crumbly flake at half height and thats it.

[dobbin]

Dead on Dave, theres nowt up to that flake. If you warmed up on v12's you could gain the sloper at the start of Careless Torque with your left, paste your right foot on and press it all the way to the flake, but it would probably be about V18 or something.

[Pantontino]

Lads, I can't believe your pessimism. The connection with the hanging flake is crying out for an ascent. I've stood under it and worked it out (I know its way out of my league - I don't train and I weigh 13 1/2 stone!).- the holds are small but they are definately there. Jerry has tried it, hitting (but not quite holding) the bottom of the flake in a back hand position from a small dink. It will be climbed soon, mark my words. I bet it turns out to be V12 or summat.

Get Ru on it - I believe he is rather good at pulling on tiny stuff.

[dobbin]

well he is yeah, but if Ru does it'll only be 7b+, and another problem I can't do that I should be able to.

[chris]

eerrr...how the hell did jerry manage to touch the hanging flake, i mean i know he's good but thats a long way and there are no holds :shock:

with most v12s you can at least see the holds and have a vague idea how to do them but this looks very, very hard indeed.

it will be very cool when someone climbs this line, by that time simone (picture above) might have dragged his fat lesbo ass up NTBA

[Pantontino]

Go back and look, there are holds. If my memory serves me right you would undercut or sidepull up (with feet on the block underneath) to gain a small dink, match on something else closeby, feet up above the lip and snatch left into the flake. Sorry for being vague, but I last looked at it about 2 years ago - the day Malc did CT.
From the flake I'm guessing it would be a big, but certainly feasible move into the top of the ramp - or you could swing left and do the scary top out on CT if you were feeling cocky.

[Johnny Brown]

You is forgettin that both you n jerry are fuckin masssive.

Yeah there are holds to pull on but only if, for example, you are big enough to pull on to WSS with the crimp and the 2nd sidepull. Ru, unfortunately, ain't ever gonna do that. I'm averagish size, and am nowhere near.

All the holds are well brushed still from last year. Any of you lanky freaks should get to it.

[dave]

my first holds on wss are the undercut and the middle sidepull. But i ain't never going to be able to do this thing so its neither here no there.

[Stu Littlefair]

You fucker.

My first two holds are the bottom two undercuts.

And I have to pop to the goddam first sidepull from there.  :cry:

This NTBTA thing, are you supposed to rock into the flake from the slopy dish you use with your right for Careless Torque?

[dave]

You fucker.

My first two holds are the bottom two undercuts.

And I have to pop to the goddam first sidepull from there.  :cry:

well i was jumping into the middle sidepull out of lazyness really (you might have been spotting when i did it), but if it makes you feel any better ever since then i've had a dodgy tendon thing on my right elbow as a result of doing that move 30+ times a session for 2 weeks. I think in future i'm gonna start on low undercuts and do it properly!