[Gareth Parry]

I thought Chimp was easy for 7c+. I managed it as a warm up but then the weasel couldnt do it so who the hell knows. There is a mention in the recent Andy Parkin interview about the first 8a. It claims he climbed it with a french guy back in 1983, it is not any of the ones mentioned above. I said the Verdon gorge but i cant remember the name, or where i read it.......one of the latest mags i think. I will make some calls.

[mrjonathanr]

Could you be thinking of 'sale temps pour les caves' (Lemenestrel bros)? Might have originally been graded 8a?

[Gareth Parry]

no, it is an article in the latest rock and ice i think

[fatdoc]

I may be wrong (sometimes happens ) but I wasn't aware that there was any climbing directly above the auberge at any time, can't imagine Pierre would have tolerated that under any circumstances. Anthoine used to gaze longingly at the big wall behind the house but Pierre was was clear that he might as well be gazing at the moon. Knowing the family doesn't make me the authority on Buoux tho and like I said,  you may be correct. Be interested to know.
Jon

There were routes there... Local boys only... Immediately banned.. Crying shame

[mrjonathanr]

[/quote]

There were routes there... Local boys only... Immediately banned.. Crying shame
[/quote]

Not if you live in the auberge with scruffy oiks trailing through your garden to get to the crag - which you own.

[fatdoc]

I thought Chimp was easy for 7c+. I managed it as a warm up but then the weasel couldnt do it so who the hell knows. There is a mention in the recent Andy Parkin interview about the first 8a. It claims he climbed it with a french guy back in 1983, it is not any of the ones mentioned above. I said the Verdon gorge but i cant remember the name, or where i read it.......one of the latest mags i think. I will make some calls.

cool, it may be 7c+ now.. most peeps on this thread are wanna be historians and 20yrs older then you gareth... which is the way of getting old i suppose!!

[Jaspersharpe]

Have you been at the sherry again fatdoc? Who exactly are these "most people" who are 20 years older than Gaz? 

 

[MorganW]

Is Saussios actually a worthwhile crag in the 7's? It just seems quite close to font and as this thread shows there is lots of history there.  Or is polished peak slimestone more like it?

[Jaspersharpe]

Most of the "classic" routes were very polished when I last went. There was some decent less polished stuff on a not so popular part of the crag but as this was in 1991 I can't vouch for what state it might be in now. Best thing there was the amazing Cafe Des Rochers restaurant but again, that was 18 years ago.