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New Ormes venue. (Read 3051 times)

superfurrymonkey

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New Ormes venue.
February 25, 2009, 10:38:26 pm
I've been asked to report a new venue just above the Marine Drive by a member who has lost both his user name and password! Bubba how can he get in touch with you to fix this?
This new bouldering venue is above the Marine Drive on the West Shore side of The Great Orme.As the Drive begins to drop down after 500 metres there is a little layby enough room for 3 cars,from here its up the grassy slope heading right for 2 minutes.Alternatively further down is a large quarried layby,from here up and left for 5 minutes.All problems have sitting starts bar an eliminate and all topout to a path above.Descent is to the left.Please be careful with the rock above the break and if unsure finish at the break...this does,nt affect the grade.There is another higher buttress 100 metres to the right which is still being developed...details to follow.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=9960

Bubba

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#1 Re: New Ormes venue.
February 26, 2009, 03:48:09 am
I've been asked to report a new venue just above the Marine Drive by a member who has lost both his user name and password! Bubba how can he get in touch with you to fix this?

http://ukbouldering.com/gbcf_form.php

If he sends me the email he signed up with I can email his username to that ...

Whyatt

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#2 Re: New Ormes venue.
February 26, 2009, 10:43:07 am
All the problems were done last year by chris pollard but he never reported them. Most of the probelms were on good rock and were between V1-V3

Lostinwales

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#3 Re: New Ormes venue.
February 26, 2009, 11:28:15 pm
Hi guys.   Just thought I would claify some things.   As mentioned, I climbed most of these lines last summer. 

Looking at the great topo provided, I didn't climb the central line straight up through the scoop (oxo the dog), I tried it a bit, and it seemed harder than V3 to me, although i was trying it in a slightly eliminate way.  Neither did i climb 'To Bach Left Finish'.  The last line on the right shown on the topo i also tried and failed - I was trying it from standing, hands on two very small slopey crimps,  left foot in a shallow, sharp pocket, straight into a big move to a crimp. I thought it was rather hard! (different problem maybe?)   

On the right hand buttress (if its the one I'm thinking about) I climbed the nice dyno thing from standing, and the lovely arete, both at the right hand end.

http://chrispollard.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album09

The left buttress had some crumbly, foot/hand holds from the sit starts - hauling my ass off the floor soon shifted them though, and as mentioned there is some suspect rock at the top of the crag.

Its a lovely little venue which gets (as the name suggests) plenty of sun. Great views and some easier problems lacking elsewhere on the Orme!

Fair play for finding it!  I would suggest a different approach though.  I parked at the top car park - up the hill, just after the 'rest and be thankfull cafe'.  Walk down the obvious slope and walk 50m to the left.  It saves treking up the slope!

Pantontino

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#4 Re: New Ormes venue.
February 27, 2009, 12:16:55 pm
I had a quick look at this place on the way home from the Cave last night. It's definitely a good find Chris - I knew you'd done something around here, but was pleasantly surprised at the quality: good rock, flat grassy landing and a spectacular position with a beautiful sunset vista across to the Carneddau and Ynys Môn. It was raining when I got there so I didn't climb, but I'll certainly be back for a play soon.

Good effort lad!  :great:

Lostinwales

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#5 Re: New Ormes venue.
February 27, 2009, 07:57:46 pm
Cheers Simon,  Would have got round to reporting it sometime but was beaten to it!  Still, there are a few more things up my sleve yet  :whistle:.   Anyway its certainly worth a visit for a nice chilled out session.   Check it out and see what ya think!

 

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