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Problem right of Fact Hunt (Read 3011 times)

dave k

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Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 08, 2009, 05:46:58 pm
Full title is "That which does not kill me makes me stronger"

What is the exact line?

I was starting from sitting on Fact Hunt, doing the first two moves of Dirty Bitch (7a), then taking the side pull with the right hand, high right foot, decent crimp with left hand, left hand again to side pull flake (tried bottom and top), left foot on sandy hold , then pulling through for either lower decent crimp with right hand or even flatty jug.

Ru`s guide talks about bad crimps, where are they? I do avoid 2 very thin crimps near the top

Also seems to appear in guide as standing start and move direct.

And whats the view on the 7c grade?

 

a dense loner

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#1 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 08, 2009, 07:01:52 pm
i think it starts on the 2 small crimps in the middle of the wall then goes direct via 2 small crimps in the middle of the wall, at about 7c. tho people do do it like you first described, strangely they find it easy for 7c  :-\

dave k

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#2 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 08, 2009, 08:27:03 pm
Cheers for the info

I thought it didn`t match the description. So is the original an eliminate or is my way just a different/easier sequence

Seems strange that an eliminate would get recorded/done and the best (actually some quality moves) and hardest (min 7b- I have certainly climbed easier 7c`s) (none eliminate) problem on the wall would not get mentioned. It is certainly a more obvious and better line than Dirty Bitch to the right, which gets a full write up.

I didn`t actually do it my way either and therefore I didn`t find it that easy. Flashed/onsighted Fact Hunt and Dirty Bitch (and the problem I was doing is harder than them).

 

cofe

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#3 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 08, 2009, 08:36:17 pm
bouldering guide is getting on a bit now and i don't think much was known about this stuff at the time, hence why fact hunt got 7b+.

Andy B has done this prob i think. sure he'll post up if/when he sees the thread.

Ru

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#4 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 08, 2009, 09:48:19 pm
Cofe's right. These problems had not been repeated when they went in the guide, or had had very few ascents. The problems recorded are as the first ascentionists described them.

Andy B

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#5 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 08, 2009, 09:56:04 pm
I did two problems here, other than Fact Hunt and Dirty Bitch. I started both from sitting, as for the other problems, then one followed crimps right of the groove of Fact Hunt up to the jug at the top of the difficulties on that, and one went just right again up to the flatty left of the top of Dirty Bitch, on slightly poorer crimps. Both were "tight lines" but I can't remember exactly which holds I used without being there, sorry. Neil T comes on here regularly though so he should be able to give the definitive knowledge on what he did for That Which Does Not Kill Me Makes Me Stronger.

dave k

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#6 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 09, 2009, 08:34:56 am
That sounds about right. Looks like you could do a line inbetween the one I was trying and Fact Hunt using the hold on the rib on Fact Hunt with the left hand.


 

a dense loner

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#7 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 09, 2009, 10:08:30 am
you could also try my description, which is what the problem is, or should be since it matches the description and is the only way up that wall at about 7c. starting seated is nice but adds nothing to the problem. rather strangely i still haven't done fact hunt, read "can't"

Jim

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#8 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 09, 2009, 02:24:14 pm
no crimps on it

dave k

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#9 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 09, 2009, 02:27:30 pm
you could also try my description, which is what the problem is, or should be since it matches the description and is the only way up that wall at about 7c. starting seated is nice but adds nothing to the problem. rather strangely i still haven't done fact hunt, read "can't"

Ok. Could you possibly be a little bit more specific about the 2 sets of crimps you mean. I must be using some of them in my sequence.

I am pretty sure I could devise another 7c way up that wall by eliminating some holds. Plus my none eliminate way is tough for 7b and is harder than other benchmark 7b+`s in the Peak.


a dense loner

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#10 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 11, 2009, 07:36:55 pm
that none eliminate way is superb. no-one else could see the line of "that which does not...". i thought it was obvious and they were all madmen, it climbs really straightforward. all i can (kind of) remember is really high right foot (maybe in break) then snatch right left left again (long move)to top. tho i could be out of my mind. am pretty sure you don't have any other crimps to choose from.
what really hurts is jim warming up by doing fact hunt over and over declaring it piss, which i'm sure it is, but for me it feels absolutely hideous. these images still upset me to this day

dave k

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#11 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 11, 2009, 07:45:53 pm
I now see the confusion, I think. As far as I can tell you did it the way I was trying. High right foot, crimp with right, sidepull edge with left(crimp), left foot up, big pull to crimp with right, then again to finishing flatty.

There are infact 2 other unnecessary micro crimps in the middle of the wall to the right on the sidepull crimp.

Anyway it does climb well and is not eliminate. I agree it is actually quite good. I plan to go back to finish it off soon. My mate was equally shut down by Fact Hunt and is keen to get back on it again.

 

Jim

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#12 Re: Problem right of Fact Hunt
April 11, 2009, 08:55:52 pm
what really hurts is jim warming up by doing fact hunt over and over declaring it piss, which i'm sure it is, but for me it feels absolutely hideous. these images still upset me to this day
Strangely, these images bring a smile to my face.
The tight line between these problems was obvious I thought, It didn't help being weak at the time, nor the fact it was boiling

 

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