where is best ? (Read 4741 times)

highonair · February 12, 2009, 06:12:33 pm

Hi where is the better place to climb for a new climber who has not yet ventured outside... portland cutting boulderfield
OR tunn bridge wells area like harrisons ?

cheers... Dan

Idol eyes · February 12, 2009, 06:30:44 pm

Portland will be the only real option, as the sand stone is prone to seapage at this time of year...
but worth going to High Rocks as it is close to a public house and is set in grounds that I find quite calming...

highonair · February 12, 2009, 06:58:29 pm

cool seepage lol so much to learn wouldn have thought of that and i dont know any one who climbs cheers ill be going second week of march all goin well, ive got the topos for the cuttings any how so thats cool

Scrimps · February 12, 2009, 07:35:06 pm

Bowles is the only answer on sandstone at the mo - high rocks is, well, high rocks in winter

tomtom · February 12, 2009, 09:37:41 pm

Quote from: highonair on February 12, 2009, 06:58:29 pm

cool seepage lol so much to learn wouldn have thought of that and i dont know any one who climbs cheers ill be going second week of march all goin well, ive got the topos for the cuttings any how so thats cool

Why not try hooking up with some people from the wall - find out where they're going and tag along... its always easier going somewhere new with people who know the area...
Though there its good figuring out a place for yourself, when you're just starting its good to get some pointers etc..

Personally, I'd reccomend moving up to Yorkshire to get some good grit bouldering in.. (plenty of other good reasons too!) but I suspect thats not an option at the moment! Get out and enjoy some real rock

St Hubbins · February 12, 2009, 10:06:47 pm

Given thechoice of either venue i'd go to bowles. But if your facing a 2hr + journey to portland, may as well go to peak?

highonair · February 13, 2009, 12:03:22 am

i aint really got talking to anyone at the wall yet, its hard when you dont really know what your doin, will do though , i know what your saying about it being easier getting tips of others ect thats why i joined on here to get a clue whats it all about.

cant move to yorkshire tomtom lol, its only an hour and a bit to portland from where i am, would like to climb off the coast i love woodlands for atmosphere i get enough of the sea where i live in portsmouth, but there is plenty of time for that.

highonair · February 13, 2009, 12:03:51 am

i aint really got talking to anyone at the wall yet, its hard when you dont really know what your doin, will do though , i know what your saying about it being easier getting tips of others ect thats why i joined on here to get a clue whats it all about.

cant move to yorkshire tomtom lol, its only an hour and a bit to portland from where i am, would like to climb off the coast i love woodlands for atmosphere i get enough of the sea where i live in portsmouth, but there is plenty of time for that.

milksnake · February 13, 2009, 01:50:09 am

ah! pompey scum, as far as climbing goes on the south coast, dorset's where its at. I,m not a fan of the cuttings tho, many better places near by. It's a bit of a bitch getting there but the trip ain't too bad, bank holiday traffic permitting. seriously, portland is your best bet, so much climbing in such a small area. in the summer, the dws is awesome

highonair · February 13, 2009, 08:00:18 am

ay not so much of the pompey scum!!! were fellow southeners, and i aint followed football in years.

cheers for the reply, a few people have said there is a certain style there? but that can apply for any area i suppose,

wintermute · February 13, 2009, 08:58:22 am

The cuttings boulderfield is far better than most people seem to think, so it's definitely worth a trip there at some point.

All the landings there are somewhat rocky though, so at least one pad is definitely essential. It also seems quite limited in the lower grades, so possibly isn't the best place to start out.

Scrimps · February 13, 2009, 09:04:29 am

I got tired of sit starts at the cuttings boulderfield - the neddyfields was better

milksnake · February 13, 2009, 04:39:36 pm

yeah, is that the one above cheney wears? theres loads of good easier problems as well as quite a lot of harder ones to keep you amused, as for style dorset is definitly a vertical crimpfest. theres a few slabs dotted around but all the overhangs and roofs are in sea caves, some really good roof lines, check out crab party.

highonair · February 13, 2009, 10:05:53 pm

Quote from: Scrimps on February 13, 2009, 09:04:29 am

I got tired of sit starts at the cuttings boulderfield - the neddyfields was better

i like sit starts ive had two hours practice tonight lol suprised myself actually climbed well and worked some problems from sit starts that 4 weeks ago i thought was impossible, so well happy, i get a real feeling of calming satisfaction after climbing really weird more than anything else, well except one thing which it could be on a par with lol

highonair · February 15, 2009, 12:22:11 pm

Ive another question for you kind people, off my original topic a bit but saves opening another newbie thread...

on the rockfax guide for portland cuttings it says winter is best for bouldering there, why is this and does it apply to all bouldering ?

i thought it might be down to the dodgy access and the place being overgrown in the summer but is it to do with the rock itsself, why are the conditions in the winter better ?

thanks again

slackline · February 15, 2009, 01:40:25 pm

Fritction is better in the cold, plus you tend to sweat less when its cold, thus maintaining the frictional properties that are ruined when you sweat.

It can help that the overgrowth dies back, but have never been to Portland so have no idea what its like.

There are some problems on grit where you'd be hard pushed to do them in the summer due to the need for excellent friction.

highonair · February 15, 2009, 06:08:17 pm

cool makes sence

so do you boulder all year round or do something different ?

slackline · February 15, 2009, 07:54:10 pm

Quote from: highonair on February 15, 2009, 06:08:17 pm

cool makes sence so do you boulder all year round or do something different ?

Vary the type of rock and areas you climb on. Search for "calling of the grit/lime-stone" on the forums.

Mountain/moorland bouldering venues can be good in summer, whereas in winter you'd probably be wasting your time with them.

Never anything wrong with doing some routes though.

Rabies · February 15, 2009, 11:05:02 pm

Seeing as your closer to Portland I really wouldn't bother making 1.5/2 hour trip to Tunbridge Wells, save that for the summer or at least May. Bowles is generally quicker drying than Harrison's for southern sandstone so you could try there once it warms up a bit. Personally I wouldn't bother unless your in the area. You have loads of rock on your doorstep at Swanage and Portland and you will get a lot more out of it than top roping or bouldering on southern sandstone!

highonair · February 16, 2009, 07:46:46 am

cheers jon, have you been to the cutting ?

Rabies · February 16, 2009, 12:09:02 pm

I have done a bit of sport at the cuttings but not much bouldering. A couple of friends have been there just for bouldering and said that its not bad. As mentioned in one of the above posts my advice would be to get in touch with people who go down there regularly and know the area a bit