[webbo]

of him falling off a lot practising - good reference video to see what it's like.


P.S. I fill my pants a *LOT* more without pads down.

but do you do it anymore when you go climbing.

[Jim]

pic from James' blog

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EADs8ObEaOM/SZqzAVnHq1I/AAAAAAAAAFU/K1KsrbuUZJo/s1600-h/web+Gerty+Berwick+JP+BW.bmp

[tc]

If the route is safe with pads, shouldn't it just be given a bouldering grade rather than the E9?

[Jim]

no, because its a route, not a boulder problem.
why do you think he's got a rope on?

[slackline]

pic from James' blog

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_EADs8ObEaOM/SZqzAVnHq1I/AAAAAAAAAFU/K1KsrbuUZJo/s1600-h/web+Gerty+Berwick+JP+BW.bmp

Nice vest!

If the route is safe with pads, shouldn't it just be given a bouldering grade rather than the E9?

The pads help mitigate some of the injuries you might sustain should you part company with the rock in the lower section before any gear placements are reached.  Have a look at the various pics as to where said gear placements are and decide whether you'd like to climb it sans pads.  Bouldering grades have been mooted as they give a bit more information as to the technicalities involved.

[RichK]

If the route is safe with pads, shouldn't it just be given a bouldering grade rather than the E9?

Hey Tim........ the start is highball Font summat, followed by an E5 6b, thus the rope.

Apparently there's gear on the upper section.

[Archangel]

I have to say that watching James climb this route was utterly awesome. He made E9 look like HVS, he told jokes mid route and was generally a really cool and sorted guy.

After he climbed his route he took the time to show me the moves on my current project Baby Spice. He of course did it first go and I am now armed with the knowledge (at least) to give it a good bash.

James is a legend an deserves a lot of respect.

[Adam Lincoln]

I have to say that watching James climb this route was utterly awesome. He made E9 look like HVS, he told jokes mid route and was generally a really cool and sorted guy.

After he climbed his route he took the time to show me the moves on my current project Baby Spice. He of course did it first go and I am now armed with the knowledge (at least) to give it a good bash.

James is a legend an deserves a lot of respect.

Nice copy and paste job from your post on UKC. 

[Johnny Brown]

he told jokes mid route

Ah, but mid-crux, did he ask Emily what was for supper that night?

[simes]

I still fill my trousers above pads. A ground fall is a ground fall. Well done boys.

...but a ground fall that hurts a lot less.

Ive always thought pads to be cheating on routes, and have never used them.

[Strife]

Ive always thought pads to be cheating on routes, and have never used them.

You wouldn't use pads if the first gear placement was 25 ft off the ground? That's not ethics, that's just stupidity.

[slackline]

Ive always thought pads to be cheating on routes, and have never used them.

You wouldn't use pads if the first gear placement was 25 ft off the ground? That's not ethics, that's just stupidity.

<--- Simes 

[Fiend]

...but a ground fall that hurts a lot less.

Ive always thought pads to be cheating on routes, and have never used them.

Yeah, extensive headpointing is a lot more morally virtuous 

[dave]

i don't think not using pads is necessarily stupidity, in the same way that soloing a geared route isn't necessarily stupid. it can actually be less faff. Plus if you've headpointed something to the stage that you're sure you won't fall off then it could be argued whats the point of putting pads down, since if you thought you could fall you wouldn't go for it in the first place.

personally, i'd love to see that ethic old-school ethic return to prominence that you can headpoint something, but then you've got to do it solo (i.e. eithout gear or mats) when you lead it.

[Strife]

Good points. But in the case of a hard route with poor gear (such as Gerty Berwick), choosing not to pad out a landing during the lead attempt would not be clever when a fall is almost guaranteed before you reach protection. To be accused of 'cheating' is ridiculous when your just trying to avoid bad injury or even death.

[slackline]

Good points. But in the case of a hard route with poor gear (such as Gerty Berwick), choosing not to pad out a landing during the lead attempt would not be clever when a fall is almost guaranteed before you reach protection. To be accused of 'cheating' is ridiculous when your just trying to avoid bad injury or even death.

Err, what you've written is something of an oxymoron, since on a lead attempt I'm pretty sure the aim is to guarantee that you don't fall.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

This will run and run and I've had enough of it. There's no right or wrong answer, just different types of ascent. As someone sensible said, as long as everyone's being honest about what they've done and how they've done it, who cares?

Good effort James by the way. The route looks amazing.

[Strife]

Err, what you've written is something of an oxymoron, since on a lead attempt I'm pretty sure the aim is to guarantee that you don't fall.

It didn't quite manage to order my thoughts onto the keyboard properly. The thing is that Gerty Berwick is dynamic, and no matter how much headpointing you do, it seems likely from watching the video that a fall is almost inevitable. So choosing not to use pads for the sake of ethics would be a bad call.

This will run and run and I've had enough of it. There's no right or wrong answer, just different types of ascent. As someone sensible said, as long as everyone's being honest about what they've done and how they've done it, who cares?

Good effort James by the way. The route looks amazing.

That's enough UKC-esque bickering for one day.

[Archangel]

Nice copy and paste job from your post on UKC. 


Is that bad form? I'll get with the programme one day.

Hey Mr Lincoln have you finished reading those Climber's Club journals yet?  If Teaboy is who I think he might be then he's probably still cross I gave them away!

[Adam Lincoln]

Nice copy and paste job from your post on UKC. 


Is that bad form? I'll get with the programme one day.

Hey Mr Lincoln have you finished reading those Climber's Club journals yet?  If Teaboy is who I think he might be then he's probably still cross I gave them away!

Ahh, right! Thats you... Yes, they are actually sitting in my attic. Prob gathering dust.....

[simes]

Ive always thought pads to be cheating on routes, and have never used them.

You wouldn't use pads if the first gear placement was 25 ft off the ground? That's not ethics, that's just stupidity.

<--- Simes  

No pads there...

Off topic though. The Ilkley thing looks superb. Well done.

[slackline]

No pads there...

Thats why I posted it.