[Sasquatch]

Ripped holes in 4 out of 8 fingers(two more are nearly ripped through) working another long-term(decade+) project, right after dialing in all of the beta. No chance of getting back to it until all of the skin heals, which may be 2-3 weeks, and then it'll be a race between sedning and snowfall....

[biscuit]

Not normally one for sharing misery but just as the hot weather looks to be on its way out over here and i am feeling fit and light i've gone and cracked my ribs due to drunken idiots fighting ( not me ).

3-6 weeks i reckon and i will see all my recent gains disappear 

[a dense loner]

Uve only cracked your ribs biscuit. Give it 2wks n start climbing again

When other people are fighting I don't normally ave any injuries to speak of 

[biscuit]

Can it heal that quick ? Good news, thanks 

I stupidly stepped in to sort it out, they were fighting in my friend's bar, and the biggest fattest one fell on top of me.

[a dense loner]

Women eh, what can u do

I was climbing the day after cracking a rib, shortness of breath seemed to be the only annoying thing so after couple more days climbing, was on a mini trip, I rested a wk or two n all seemed ok.

Disclaimer:I'm an idiot

[biscuit]

Disclaimer:I'm an idiot

That's OK cos so am i 

Feeling a little less pissed off today and may have a quick hang off the BM later to see what hurts and where and then i can start to test it out every couple of days. I believe in working around injuries not stopping everything but ribs seems to be quite limiting. I can't run, do core or anything.

Anyway, less whinging. It can only get better from here.

Good to know it may not be too long term so thanks for that

[Sasquatch]

I went out to work my project and my friend raps down it to check out the holds and breaks the crux pinch hold. 

It was right at my limit and I wasn't sure if I could do it without getting stronger.  Now its even harder.   

I'm pretty confident it still goes though, just maybe not this year, and maybe not by me.....

[Jim]

even more insentive to get stronger shirley?

[Sasquatch]

even more insentive to get stronger shirley?

Absolutely, and don't call me shirley.

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

Disclaimer:I'm an idiot

That's OK cos so am i 

Feeling a little less pissed off today and may have a quick hang off the BM later to see what hurts and where and then i can start to test it out every couple of days. I believe in working around injuries not stopping everything but ribs seems to be quite limiting. I can't run, do core or anything.

Anyway, less whinging. It can only get better from here.

Good to know it may not be too long term so thanks for that

Disclaimer; This isn't going to help...and I am also partial to the occasional bout of idiocy, so went I wiped out snowboarding with a camera in my chest pocket, I cracked a rib or two. Or I probably cracked a rib. After several weeks of not being able to sneeze, cough, laugh, breath deeply without severe pain I went to A& E where they said I had probably just bruised them. But if I had broken them the treatment is the same they just make months not weeks to get better.
So if your not in excruciating pain every time you cough, you've hopefully just bruised them and they should heal in a few weeks.

[SA Chris]

Friend of mine did exactly the same thing with a bottle of suncream.

[mrjonathanr]

 so went I wiped out snowboarding with a camera

Obi-Wan or Yoda?

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

:

 so went I wiped out snowboarding with a camera

Obi-Wan or Yoda?

poor at typing on phone I am. 

[andy_e]

This is not the sentence structure you are looking for... *waves hand slowly*

[Fultonius]

Fluffed a damn onsight!

Grrr.... Fell off a move low down and getting a little wrong-handed. After a quick up, no too pumped, down and rest, I got back on and led it cleanly to the top. Partial YYFY for nailing the proper crux onsight but ultimately a bit disappointing.

I don't get it - I've onsighted one confirmed E5 and put up a route at Neist that we graded E5 (but who knows, could be E4) but, for some unknown reason, I've never cleanly onsighted an E4. I've done E4 "equivalent" pitches in Canada and 7b sport, I don't get scared above gear but for some reason I just seem to have fluffed a few. (to be fair, I've only actually attempted seven routes given E4)

Must be poor tactics as I've done some E3s recently that didn't feel too bad. Grrrrrrrrrrr!

[SA Chris]

Sounds like reading the rock is the problem? Were all the other routes you've done at similar grade obvious what to do and get the grade for reasons other than tricky squences?

[Fultonius]

I think so. I probably went a bit to full-steam ahead. More patience and prep in my tectics I think.

More mileage on similar stuff would help but that's nigh on impossible (limestone E3as and E4s in Scotland anyone??)

Like I say, chuffed to onsight the top crux as it felt like a harder move.

[SA Chris]

Harder move to execute, or harder move to perform?

I guess (and this being no slight on you Ali) this may be a product of shitty weather resulting in spending too much time indoors and occasionally snatching a few dry hours working on ticking hard problems,  rather than getting out on the rock and onsighting (or attempting to onsight) routes at your limit.

I don't think the similar stuff would have to be the same rock; any vertical (ish) fingery rock will provide a similar experience.

[Fultonius]

Harder move to execute, or harder move to perform?

Not quite sure what you mean there, but, having done the low move twice (well, once almost and once actually) I don't think it as physically strenuous or technically difficult as the top move. I plain and simple approached it the wrong way but the correct way is not particularly devious or unobvious. It was a case of pinky down in the crack and face left, rather than pinky up and face right. One way works, the other doesn't.

The top move (unless there's an easier way, which is more than possible) is slightly more obvious (there is only one useful hold and it's a bigger move to the next useful hold, a bit barndoorey and thinner feet). James also cruised the low crux, but took a few goes on the high crux on second.

I guess (and this being no slight on you Ali) this may be a product of shitty weather resulting in spending too much time indoors and occasionally snatching a few dry hours working on ticking hard problems, rather than getting out on the rock and onsighting (or attempting to onsight) routes at your limit.

More than true, but I'm more annoyed that I've done about 4km of climbing in the last 6 weeks so I felt I should be able to do it. Mileage on any rock type, onsight, close enough for weekday trips in the E3/E4 range is....well...not easy to find!

[SA Chris]

Mileage on any rock type, onsight, close enough for weekday trips in the E3/E4 range is....well...not easy to find!

Move then!

[Fultonius]

I am - November 24th, Chamonix. 

Part of the reason why I'm jumping on routes midweek that I've been saving for the onsight for a while...time is running out!

[biscuit]

Disclaimer; This isn't going to help...and I am also partial to the occasional bout of idiocy, so went I wiped out snowboarding with a camera in my chest pocket, I cracked a rib or two. Or I probably cracked a rib. After several weeks of not being able to sneeze, cough, laugh, breath deeply without severe pain I went to A& E where they said I had probably just bruised them. But if I had broken them the treatment is the same they just make months not weeks to get better.
So if your not in excruciating pain every time you cough, you've hopefully just bruised them and they should heal in a few weeks.
[/quote]

Cheers for that. I can breathe deeply, cough without too much pain but sneezing is BAD.
A&E said the same to me ( i think, my A&E Spanish is not up to scratch ) They may be fractured, they may not but it's the same treatment as long as they are not puncturing a lung - which they obviously weren't.

I've climbed again and it's still too painful really so i am hoping another week and it'll be OK to get back to it.

[biscuit]

I am - November 24th, Chamonix. 

Part of the reason why I'm jumping on routes midweek that I've been saving for the onsight for a while...time is running out!

Nice one 

[tregiffian]

Hello Pierre d`Orthaz.

[SA Chris]

I am - November 24th, Chamonix. 

That will help with your trad onsighting! Are you doing another winter? I might manage a week long pass this winter for some snow related fun, how comfy is your couch?