Walk Away (stand up) - Repeated (Read 14917 times)

c3po · February 08, 2009, 02:48:30 pm

Bumped into Greg Chapman yesterday and found out he'd been to Fairy Steps and just repeated John Gaskins two move horror show Walk Away Ft8B (the sit down is Ft8C). If anyones been there and seen some dimples in the wall they will appreciate just how hard this problems is. This problem aint a soft touch having sent some big names packing! Good effort!

GCW · February 08, 2009, 03:00:53 pm

Thanks for the confirmation.

Well done Greg. Sitter next?
I hear the methos was a little different to John's, we'll have to wait for the lowdown from the horse's mouth.

nik at work · February 08, 2009, 07:08:36 pm

Effort Greg. Brilliant, not seen you around here for a while, I guess you've been hidden in a cellar beastifying...

Richie Crouch · February 08, 2009, 08:01:15 pm

Serious effort!

davej · February 08, 2009, 08:12:52 pm

nice one Greg

dave

JohnH · February 08, 2009, 08:30:44 pm

Awesome effort, fair play

Fiend · February 08, 2009, 11:02:53 pm

Proper bizzle. well done that man.

Doylo · February 09, 2009, 08:20:40 am

nice greg! did u do it the same method as jonny? whats next? 1 move 8b-get in!

Jaspersharpe · February 09, 2009, 08:34:38 am

That's a fine effort.

Bonjoy · February 09, 2009, 09:15:14 am

Effort!

chappers · February 09, 2009, 09:46:36 am

effort greg. nice one.

dave · February 09, 2009, 09:56:38 am

way to go G-egg.

andy_e · February 09, 2009, 10:30:09 am

Effort man o'chaps

Dave Westlake · February 09, 2009, 12:00:59 pm

Nice one Greg, had a feeling you'd nail it this weekend!

Moo · February 09, 2009, 12:30:17 pm

greg deserves this ascent in preparation he hasn't eaten anything for a good three years, gregs method was to take the sloper which gaskins matched with his left hold a tiny quarter pad index pocket with his right use a lower foothold and dyno for the break its like leaping for the ceiling off your grans wallpaper seriously seriously hard move

220bpm · February 09, 2009, 12:47:32 pm

Flipping flip

Now that is news.

Great to hear!

Doylo · February 09, 2009, 01:15:31 pm

it looks like greg is slowly turning into jonathan. he s gone underground aswell now.come back G!

Adam Lincoln · February 09, 2009, 05:49:50 pm

News and pics here http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=45974

Nice one Greg

(woz) · February 09, 2009, 07:11:44 pm

[quote
Greg:
]I have no idea of what the grade would be for my sequence... it's at least English 6c."[/quote]

c.j.d. · February 10, 2009, 10:00:40 am

Seriously good effort - whats next Mr C?

Fiend · February 10, 2009, 10:16:13 am

I like the photo of him on it. It's a nice bit of rock and pretty small AND vertical for a boulder problem - obviously properly damn hard at it's grades

nik at work · February 10, 2009, 10:24:55 am

A previously unrepeated vertical boulder problem with poor holds? Hmmm, I wonder what he could try next....

Fiend · February 10, 2009, 11:11:21 am

BBBBBBANG THAT DRUM

Adam Lincoln · February 10, 2009, 11:50:50 am

Quote from: nik at work on February 10, 2009, 10:24:55 am

A previously unrepeated vertical boulder problem with poor holds? Hmmm, I wonder what he could try next....

There is also that unrepeated wall at wall at Rivelin, can't think of the name, do you know which one i mean?

nik at work · February 10, 2009, 11:58:53 am

I'm saying nothing.....

Adam Lincoln · February 10, 2009, 12:05:38 pm

Quote from: nik at work on February 10, 2009, 11:58:53 am

I'm saying nothing.....

Greg C · February 10, 2009, 01:07:47 pm

Thanks for the kudos.

Just one point: John did give this 8a+/b when he originally did it, and though it has been subsequently touted as more around the 8b mark, mainly through its lack of repeats, it may be a case of the line being neglected/forgotten about, rather than it spitting off the worlds finest climbers week in week out. I can think of a couple of steely fingered yooths and a less youthful steely fingered Welshman who would probably stand a better than decent chance of doing it with the jump sequence.

One other thing: its not just one move. There is a tricky V5/6c+ section after the crux, would be suitors neglect working this out at their peril.

nik at work · February 10, 2009, 01:10:11 pm

Good to see you here again Greg, it's been a while.

Doylo · February 10, 2009, 01:10:26 pm

not niks wall a bloody gain!

Doylo · February 10, 2009, 01:12:25 pm

don t sell yourself short g.your havin 8b whether u like it or not!

GCW · February 10, 2009, 01:15:46 pm

Can someone please repeat Nik's Wall, declare it 7b+ and get the bearded one to shut up for a while.

dave · February 10, 2009, 01:20:06 pm

but then it could get upgraded to lowball E12.

nik at work · February 10, 2009, 01:23:26 pm

I haven't even mentioned it, but now you bring it up....

Fiend · February 10, 2009, 01:43:54 pm

Given nik's stature it could be highball for him.

P.S. Greg, possibility of a downgrade with this new sequence?? Will time tell...

Monolith · February 10, 2009, 01:47:51 pm

Awesome Greg, a very pleasing bit of news.

Monolith · February 10, 2009, 01:54:04 pm

Actually, to be fair Greg, you've sort of made things a bit hard for yourself as this golden nugget from UKC proves:

"Hmm. I'm obviously no boulderer. From where I'm sitting it looks as if you could just run at the wall, jump up on smears and stick the good holds. In fact I would imagine that someone tall could just jump."

Should I take the ladder to the top of the Bowderstone too?

Jaspersharpe · February 10, 2009, 01:56:52 pm

I was just about to post that very quote! Classic Cocktalk.

"There's an easier way round the back you know?"

Adam Lincoln · February 10, 2009, 02:00:27 pm

Quote from: Monolith on February 10, 2009, 01:54:04 pm

Should I take the ladder to the top of the Bowderstone too?

Isn't that what all the problems are graded for? Oh. I best get up there again and do them again. Thought they were all a bit soft..... $:-\$

c3po · February 10, 2009, 04:49:58 pm

Even more impressive Greg also got the first re-assent of Beauty Of Being Crucified since the pinche broke at around the smae grade 7b+/7c.

GCW · February 10, 2009, 05:06:11 pm

The pinch will be put back when things dry out.

Greg C · February 13, 2009, 12:41:32 pm

Does the pinch really need to go back? The remaining edge is more than good enough to do both lines at the same grade. Not really too bothered either way mind.

One other thing: All those ridiculous climbing by numbers shots on UKC were nothing to do with me - all Mick's own work, which he did off his own back. I was not at the crag with him at any point. I merely replied to a nice email from Jack (Geldard) with a few sentences and traded them the action image for a premier post.

r-man · February 13, 2009, 01:02:34 pm

Still, it's nice to see that thread had a lot of interest on ukc. Both the legend of Gaskins and the photo of the problem obviously appeal to more than just the small cult of lime worshippers.

You didn't by any chance get some video did you? I'd be pysched to watch that move being done.

Greg C · February 13, 2009, 01:13:02 pm

No I didn't get a video when I did it. However - once the twinge in my arm clears up - I will be trying the sitter, so I will borrow works video camera and endeavor to get some footage of the stand up section. I managed the move twice on the day I did it, so I'm fairly sure I will be able to do it again, conditions permitting. Sadly, I think it's now wet again.

GCW · February 13, 2009, 04:32:24 pm

No, the pinch doesn't have to go back on at all. And I suspect it will only fall off again after a while. A discussion by the locals may be an idea.

andy_e · February 13, 2009, 04:52:20 pm

So it's still 7b without the pinch?

n_man · February 15, 2009, 04:44:03 am

Doesn't this repeat put Greg on the hallowed, and short, list of having done multiple UK 8b's.

GCW · February 15, 2009, 08:09:29 am

Depends if you listen to Dense or not