[SA Chris]

What you reckon then? Seems like in certain areas, especially on problems, or with areas with an uncertain history, people seem loathe to name problems. Its bad enough with problems being referred to as "Problem 3, Boulder 4 on Page 172" if a guidebook to the area exists, but in other instances it just ends up as " That overhang with the flake" in conversation.

What you reckon?

[dave]

its just a good job chris craggs isn't into bouldering or every classic traditional problem in the country would be named and noted as "FA C.Craggs & C.Binks 1994, certainly done before".

[Bubba]

Didn't Mick Ryan rename a whole bouldering area in Bishop?

Anyway, in the Peak at least, you can fairly safely call just about anything "Done years ago by Jason Myers".

I agree that problem x on page y is annoying but then who should have the honour of retro-naming them?

Can, meet worms....

[SA Chris]

I agree that problem x on page y is annoying but then who should have the honour of retro-naming them?

Everyone puts proposed names in a hat and they drawn at a ceremony at that crag? Only people who have done the problem may enter.

[dobbin]

I like that idea.

Alternatively you could attempt to drown the proposer of the new name, if they floated they must be a witch and we kill them anyway, and if they drown they must be ok so the name stays.

[grimer]

The new Staffs guide has bouldering in it, and I tried to give things names as often as possible, for just the reason above. However, they are never 'name' names, but things like Wavy Slab, Strech and Mantle, 5c Wall, Justin's Arete, Three Pocket Slab, Undercut Traverse. Things that describe them or who did them, just to help identifying.

The names are very definitely not names that lay claim to anything, and i don't really see it as retro-naming in a Chris Craggs style.

[Ru]

Out of interest Grimer, have you included the sit start to Inertia Reel, and what name and grade is it given if it is?

[dave]

is that undercuts dyno featuring in the guide? it aughta, cos its bo. wants to go in at about font7a. I look forward to the guide.

[grimer]

Out of interest Grimer, have you included the sit start to Inertia Reel, and what name and grade is it given if it is?

15

   Inertia Reel   V8   (6c)
A Dawes classic starting just left of the vague nose. Undercut, bridge, palm and dyno. Rupert’s Sitdown, V10 (7a), is all too obvious.

[Dave Flanagan]

What you reckon then? Seems like in certain areas, especially on problems, or with areas with an uncertain history, people seem loathe to name problems. Its bad enough with problems being referred to as "Problem 3, Boulder 4 on Page 172" if a guidebook to the area exists, but in other instances it just ends up as " That overhang with the flake" in conversation.

What you reckon?

Retronaming is a tricky one, its so frustrating to have absolutely no names. In Glendalough, new problems are mostly names at the moment but a lot of the old easier problems are still unnamed which is a pity as they are classic.
I think the trick is, as Grimer says above, is to use general/descriptive names as this minimises the perception that there is a claim associated with the name.

Another issue is shit names, one shtta make you cringe to even say them. Are names ever rejected out of hand or are they just forgotten about?

[dobbin]

I can't think of any shit problem names, plenty route ones, but no boulders?

[Johnny Brown]

Grimer wrote

Rupert’s Sitdown, V10 (7a), is all too obvious

Milk it, Ru, milk it!

Which brings to mind the Moffat method of naming problems....

Which one is Justin's arete then??

[Stu Littlefair]

Rupert's Sitdown, V10 (7a), is all too obvious

Oh Jesus! Give it a month Ru, and there'll be someone on Cocktalk accusing you of being egotistical  :?

[grimer]

Which one is Justin's arete then??

Should have been Justin's Wall that. He did the wall left of the Undercut dyno on the block on the lower tier boulders, between that and that grim classic mantel problem.

[Ru]

Yeah, well. Just for the record I didn't name it, grade it, or claim it.  

Grimer once asked me about it so I was wondering whether it was going in and what it would be called.

[Jim]

Which one is Justin's arete then??

Should have been Justin's Wall that. He did the wall left of the Undercut dyno on the block on the lower tier boulders, between that and that grim classic mantel problem.

What grade does that go at?

[grimer]

well, i named it, graded it and claimed it. I just didn't climb it. But between us.....

I spent weeks thinking that name up. I hope you like it Ru

[grimer]

What grade does that go at?

In the words of the man himself...

"It's 'ord tha'. Probbibbily 7a. Ah dunno. But I bet Siimon deed et yees ago."

[Ru]

I spent weeks thinking that name up. I hope you like it Ru

Great. I didn't quite understand it at first, but now I see what you've done. Clever.

[SA Chris]

Another issue is shit names, one shtta make you cringe to even say them. Are names ever rejected out of hand or are they just forgotten about?


Only example I can think of is when what was referred to for years as "The Caley Mantel" (the superb one on the great flake boulder) got called "Bob's Bastard" in the YGG. No-one calls it that ever.

Or how about christening the route by smashing a bottle of beer on it?

Waste of beer I know.

[Pantontino]

I have a confession to make with regard to renaming problems because I thought they had a crap name.

On the Marine Drive at Pill Box Wall, Mark Katz' new sport route has 2 starts. The right is called Mr Whippy (V6/7) - not sure why? Anyway around '97/8 Kristian Clemmow added a left hand start and called it Chocolate Dipper. He pissed it and moved on to the next bit of steep rock. I on the other hand had no such luck (some would say power) and it has stubbornly remained on my 'must do this soon' list ever since. This is a great problem, one of the best of its grade (V8) in the area, and I love it, even though it doesn't suit me at all. In fact I almost love the fact that I keep on almost, but not quite doing it. The only thing is I cringe everytime I say the original name - a crass schoolboy pun, if ever there was. So of late I have started referring to it as Chocalate Wall, and I'm hoping people might forget Klemmow's shitey name. I almost feel as if I own the problem more than he does, and that I have through many hours of devotion adopted a duty of care for the problem. Do foster parents rename the kids they look after? - okay, perhaps a bad analogy.

Anyway, I know I have no right whatsoever to do this, but I've changed it in the guide text.

Is that a crime?

I have also saved Katz from (yet more) public ridicule by dropping his preposterous 'Emotional Landscapes' name in favour of a more sober Caseg Groove sds. (and yes I do know that Klem Loskot used this once)

They'll both thank me in the long run.

Fire away...

[james]

Just to confirm justins wall is still unclimbed.  He keeps getting to the slopers and faling off.  It is indeed "ord" and most probably 7a.
Cheers

James

[Scouse D]

I remember when Katz suggested Emotional landscapes- fuck me that was hillarious. Much mirth and merriment was had by all at Mark's expense.

[Johnny Brown]

Pantontino wrote:

I have also saved Katz from (yet more) public ridicule by dropping his preposterous 'Emotional Landscapes' name in favour of a more sober Caseg Groove sds. (and yes I do know that Klem Loskot used this once)

Where was Klem's 'Caseg groove sds.' then?

[Greg C]

Hey Simon,
What about that Chris Davies problem "superfuzymonkeynuts"  :? or whatever it was called? Has that not had its name changed to "Sway On"?

Greg

[Greg C]

Hey I like the sound of "Superfuzymonkeynuts" I might use that to name one of my new problems!! :hyper:

Greg

[Scouse D]

Chris's problem called Superfuzzbigmuff, was renamed at our houseparty in sheffield. Chris wasn't happy with the name and had been trying to think of a new one for a while. In a moment of drunken glory he exclaimed "I'm so pissed I've got a sway on!"followed by "eureka!"(or more likely"fuck me"), "I shall rename the problem 'Sway on' to mark this momentus occasion". Chris promptly got on our phone in the middle of the party to phone Si and inform him of this inspired event.
Tell this story to your children lest it ever be forgotten.

[Jim]

Ahh but its name is imortalized on stick it - maybe need a product re-call to wipe it from history

[fatboySlimfast]

Re: superfuzzbigmuff
an album by the lengendary Mudhoney featuring 'Touch me im sick'
one of the best kick ass motherfucker guitar bands that i have ever seen live

re: emotional landscapes
is Katz guesting on a reunion of some synth pop 80's band/

[Bubba]

re: emotional landscapes
is Katz guesting on a reunion of some synth pop 80's band/

He's come over all Dave Pegg  :wink:

[dave]

unfortunate choice of words.

[dobbin]

It could have been worse he could have come all over Dave Peg.

On a Dave Pegg tip, I currently sit opposite his ex wife's brother. Fascinating.

[Bubba]

How's she doing? Did her back ever sort itself out?

[Pantontino]

Now then Mr Cottle, I recall following an entire Sonic Youth/Mudhoney tour in about 88/89 blagging in on guest lists and getting lairy and drunk as you like every night. Great times, except for the nightmare hitching scenarios.

Do people still follow bands these days?

[Bubba]

Do people still follow bands these days?

Yeah, reckon so, just not old gits like us  :wink:

[fatboySlimfast]

Fuk me Si
Sonic Youth and Mudhoney at Manchester Uni,
1998 but i could be wrong
a defining moment in my life
An encore of both bands doing a cover of ' i wanna be your dog'
ssssssssshhhhhhhhheeeeeeezzzzzz
does it get any better

[dobbin]

How's she doing? Did her back ever sort itself out?

Dunno Bubs, I'll ask him, he's off Poorly sick at the mo...

Re band following, is the sort of fervent admiration of geetar rawk you speak of not confined to middle class kids whose parents drive volvos these days? in the early 90's it was a bit more underground, now its all blinkin park and limp dickit, 13 yr olds with skateboards who think society rejects them when in fact all they need is a pat on the head...

[SA Chris]

re: emotional landscapes
is Katz guesting on a reunion of some synth pop 80's band/

He's come over all Dave Pegg  :wink:

I think it would be better to come over all Simon Pegg. How about calling it "Spaced" ?