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Stanage Without Oxygen (Read 3250 times)

Krank

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Stanage Without Oxygen
February 09, 2009, 10:22:35 am
I was having a bash on this yesterday, but not getting very far. We were climbing to the break, good jams, stepping feet up, then up to the (poor) sloper and then falling off. Didnt seem to be able to hold the sloper at all, am i missing something, or do i just need to get training on some slopers so i can effortlessly float through to the better holds higher up? Cheers

T_B

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#1 Re: Stanage Without Oxygen
February 09, 2009, 10:59:29 am
I think there's a knee bar for your left leg, though it's a while ago so I can't remember precisely. I remember matching the sloper, then popping for the diagonal flattie with your left. Cool move.

Krank

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#2 Re: Stanage Without Oxygen
February 09, 2009, 11:21:28 am
Cheers, i will give this a go.

Sloper

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#3 Re: Stanage Without Oxygen
February 09, 2009, 12:59:13 pm
I think there's a knee bar for your left leg, though it's a while ago so I can't remember precisely. I remember matching the sloper, then popping for the diagonal flattie with your left. Cool move.

I can't remember a knee bar but I do remember finding a really shitty little hold a few inches below the good hold without which I couldn't make the move.

J L

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#4 Re: Stanage Without Oxygen
February 11, 2009, 08:58:14 pm
Hi, I managed the route by using a sidepull on the left of the rib, a high left foot smear and a right heel/ toe in the break, sloper for your right, turning the left into an undercut as you stand up, span to the good holds with right.
 
I have to admit this method is slightly morpho, as the span is huge, but worth giving it a go.

Rocket man rob stuck a left heel/ toe in the break, matched the sloper and reached left to the good holds.

Hope this helps.

Krank

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#5 Re: Stanage Without Oxygen
February 12, 2009, 08:48:42 am
Cheers for all that, i will have to go back for another good sitting on this soon. Cheers

 

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