[nik at work]

Of course there is, but I know nothing about it. However I fully intend to remedy this shameful knowledge gap by indulging in a visitation. I'm planning a grand day out and would greatly enjoy the company of a knowledgable chap (or chapess).
I'm free anytime for a week from the 15th of February and can offer a lift (I'd be coming from Todmorden), coffee, the unwanted attention of a mad collie, biscuits, and a comprehensive range of excuses in exchange for a spot of guiding.

Sadly my wit and repartee has expired, but I will offer mumbles and vague hand waving gestures instead.

Any interested parties?

P.S. I know Wales is probably quite big and all that so I'm probably not going to see it all but I don't have any particular spot in mind to visit, so suggestions of choice venues would also be appreciated (first response will mention the cave I'm thinking...)

[Iesu]

apparently there's some good stuff on sea-sculpted limestone (above a pebble-dashed landing) near Mumbles on Gower. never been.

I know for a fact that there is some VERY scrappy bouldering on sandstone outcrops and quarries in the valleys. I also know for a fact that there are eminently high-ballable routes on south wales limestone.

I won't be near any of them though, as i'll most likely be at almscliffe.

I've heard whisperings about some mist-shrouded boulders north of Dolgellau and something on the coast west of Porthmadog, but I can't be positive about their accuracy. Probably mostly choss by the look of the Snowdon Horseshoe

[butters]

I know bugger all about bouldering in Wales either so I would just go and buy North Wales Bouldering and get syked but the obvious places that spring to mind would be Port Ysgo, The Pass and a grotty cave up near Llandudno which is rumoured to have some hard problems in it. 

bluebrad

[Houdini]

Porth Ysgo is the only serious winter venue.

You could go to the c*ve, but that would be like travelling to Val Di Mello and continuing to the granite quarry further up the valley.  If I was driving from Tod, I'd go the extra few miles and go to Porth.  It's incredible on bright winter day; the friction is nuts.  And it's beautiful, not a compliment heard in the c*ve too often.

[nik at work]

That's the kind of knowledge I was after. Cheers Houd. Anyone fancy a Porth Ysgo trip?

[GCW]

I could be persuaded.
As long as it's steepish and crimpy I may be OK

[nik at work]

No drop knees right?

[Falling Down]

Yep - I've been thinking of a winter visit... know the place and environs well.

[andy_e]

I'd be keen for Popcorn Party plus other things! Time off might cause issues though.

[ksjs]

shame on me: i still havent bouldered at Porth Ysgo (promise to self to do so this year) either but, as suggested, its supposed to be superb and, looking at the guide, has a very impressive choice - about 150 problems.

other good venues:

Sheep Pen Boulders - lovely setting, some nice big blocks, some brilliant problems with decent grade spread

Caseg Boulders - again, a lovely setting, not so much choice but some outstanding problems

The Pass - theres stacks of stuff to go at here, some right beside the road, some very tranquil a wee bit uphill. loads of variety and loads of classics (apart from the obvious and very good Cromlech boulders, The Barrel and Wavelength area are definitely worth a look)

Parisella's - i see some of the comments arent entirely positive about the place i guess its a love it or hate it venue. i love it, its just very addictive; if it was just about being strong it wouldnt be so good but it can be extremely subtle with the slightest change on a hold making something possible or not. the quality of the problems is (from what ive done and what people say) very high, not much choice below V6 though.

have a good trip, im sure youll enjoy wherever you end up...

[nik at work]

OK, this is all good stuff. How about some specific problem recommendations?
Thinking the 7C-ish ballpark.
Also I am strangely interested in visiting the cave but it does seem like the kind of place where you'd need a guru to guide you. Or am I wrong?

[Richie Crouch]

I could show you some problems at most of the venues!

Recommendations around 7C/+

Jerry's Roof, Bus Stop, Lizard King, Pit Traverse, Don't think Feel, Rockatrocity, Lou Ferrino

Things a little easier (7A-7B+) but recommended:

Sleep Deprivation, King of Drunks, Emyr's Arete, The Pinch, Harvey Oswald, Truth ss, Mutant Child ss, Whisky Bitch, Clever Beaver, Beaver Cleaver, Left wall Trav, Under the Bridge.

There are a lot of high quality problems, just a bit spread around.

[Pantontino]

Can't say I'd agree with Houdini that Porth Ysgo is the only winter option. It is an amazing place and winter is the best time to be there (it can often be too hot in January!)

However, there are loads of other quality winter bouldering venues.

Like Ksjs said, Sheep Pen is useful as it gets lots of winter sun; there are some issues with drainage on the main face after perisitent rain, but still plenty of class problems to go at. The Pinch is one of the best V7/7a+s around.

The Braichmelyn boulder and the Caseg boulder are both superb winter venues too. Plenty of technical, fingery test pieces up to V11/8a. These are both close to each other on the edge of Bethesda so can be easily combined in a day.

The RAC Boulders are always a good winter venue, especially if you want a mellow session. Lots of superb low/mid grade stuff, plus the odd harder thing.

The Pass can also be good in winter, especially if you're not too soft!

On the Ormes, if the usual Marine Drive stuff (Parisella's, Pill Box etc) doesn't float yer boat, then why not check out Angel Bay or the crags on top of Little Orme - Rampant Rabbit for example is one of the best V6/7/7a/+s in the area.

(And going back to the cave for minute - I hope all you Cave haters are taking note of Pete Robins recent run of good form. It can all be traced back to hours of dedication in Parisella's. Even trad monster Caff is psyched for the place these days!)

[Pantontino]

OK, this is all good stuff. How about some specific problem recommendations?
Thinking the 7C-ish ballpark.
Also I am strangely interested in visiting the cave but it does seem like the kind of place where you'd need a guru to guide you. Or am I wrong?

The Cave can be harsh on first acquaintance - nobody, and I mean nobody, not even yer globe trotting superstars crush in the cave. It takes time to get into. The problems are surprisingly non-basic given its reputation for being a power stamina venue. Part of the fun is discovering your own sequences; the problems are not eliminates, so anything goes. Most days, and particularly on a weekend there will be other people there, so you can always ask for help if you're struggling to make sense of it all.

[butters]

Parisella's - i see some of the comments arent entirely positive about the place

I thought that a slightly mischievous dig at the Cave's standing would get a few results.   Just for the record - I am not slagging it at all - more trying to put across the fact that it's somewhat of an acquired taste - as I wrote in the blog a while back:

"Parisellas - permanently dry even in the face of the worst that the Welsh climate can throw at it is, in a nut shell, a bloody steep limestone cave with a floor that is a combination of dust, chalk and goat shit!! Now the floor alone should make it a desperately unattractive place to spend a day in Wales regardless of the weather but it is actually rather good featuring some quality problems and even two or three that I have a remote chance of completing within my lifetime."

Argue with that if you will but it doesn't change the fact that I will be back to prove my infinite lack of power again sometime in the future...  

bluebrad

[Jim]

the cave fucking rules man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and I won't hear a word said against it.
Even dense has started taking a shine to the place, we'll have Johnny footwork there by the end of the year......

maybe not

[uptown]

Can I tag along? - I may not be local but I have a copy of the guide without a number...

[Doylo]

You can't let dense beat you to Lou ferrino Jim!

[nik at work]

Definitely Uptown, just let me know when you're free 15th-21st of Feb is my window of opportunity.

[Jim]

You can't let dense beat you to Lou ferrino Jim!

your not wrong. that would be a dark day in my book.
might try and get dound?wn this week, you aro

[saltbeef]

You can't let dense beat you to Lou ferrino Jim!

is this likely?

[Doylo]

You can't let dense beat you to Lou ferrino Jim!

your not wrong. that would be a dark day in my book.
might try and get dound?wn this week, you aro

Prob will be working til w'end, (unless it snows!)

[Doylo]

You can't let dense beat you to Lou ferrino Jim!

is this likely?

Never bet against Master Loner

[Monolith]

Nik, I'm likely to have some weekdays 'free' in feburary so if you drop a line in the week prior to your visit, I'll see if another forum reprobate and I could come meet you.

[nik at work]

Fantastic Monolith, I'll give you a shout.

[Monolith]

Swede as. Wednesdays are often good for me since I technically have no fixed commitments. Not sure if you're angling for midweek action but in any case, hollllla.

[Jim]

I'm off on the thursday of that week.
Hopefully I'll come over to meet up in the cave