[nik at work]

 

Thanks Dense, your encouragement and support is appreciated, you big softy you.

[a dense loner]

just didn't want you to get confused nic

i can't talk, tomorrow i will be mostly throwing myself at fata morgana

[nik at work]

Good luck.
I'll expect a full report tomorrow evening, especially if you try the left heel-hook technique (I'm sure you won't).

[Adam Lincoln]

Good luck.
I'll expect a full report tomorrow evening, especially if you try the left heel-hook technique (I'm sure you won't).

I tried it that way, and i think its harder than the original method. Fully desperate to get anything from heel!  Is it Roddy Mackenzie who pisses it like that in the video?

[nik at work]

Indeed it is, I'm thinking that him pissing something isn't an indicator of its ease...
How hard did the original sequence feel? I.e. is it worth trying?

[nash1]

This one is qualidy... http://bleau.info/plaines/1664.html

[slackline]

This one is qualidy... http://bleau.info/plaines/1664.html

  neil h & uncle ticked it t'other day by the looks of it

[Adam Lincoln]

Indeed it is, I'm thinking that him pissing something isn't an indicator of its ease...
How hard did the original sequence feel? I.e. is it worth trying?

I tried it in crap conditions 3rd day on and was getting to pocket but not accurately enough to hold it. I could pull on and do it from the pocket which is about 7b. There is a big difference between hitting pocket and holding it enough to get feet on. It was smaller than i thought it was going to be. (Said the actress to the bishop!)

[nik at work]

Sounds like it would be worth having a flail on. Sounds a bit vitruvian-esque, hard first slap then steady(ish) climbing, although obviously harder.

[Adam Lincoln]

Sounds like it would be worth having a flail on. Sounds a bit vitruvian-esque, hard first slap then steady(ish) climbing, although obviously harder.

I have to say, its quite reach dependent! You will probably like the heel method....

[Scouse D]

I recommend Vandale cos I've done it and thought it was really good

[Paul B]

I recommend Vandale cos I've done it and thought it was really good

I've heard the same and when I mentioned that it might be a touch Morpho short ish people poo-pah'd me!

If it hasn't been mentioned Noir Desir, Noir Desir and Noir Desir anything of that grade at Rempart is amazing.

[Duma]

this looks good. not seen it in the flesh though.

As dense said, it's a flattering photo - bit lowball and grotty in the flesh. nice moves though, and if you like burl it's one for you I reckon. If it were me in Gorges du Houx looking for something 7Cish I'd go for this looks super classic and a couple of nice 7As either side. there's also this just across the valley

Psychose looks awesome - it's high but the landings pretty flat IIRC.

[jonjon]

With your height and finger strength you should be all over L'arrache coeur Tom. I could barely reach what I couldn't pull on.
Appartenance might be another to try, had a couple of ascents from Nige and Jon Barton!! recently.

Hey enough with the !!

[Huffy]

If you've got a couple of mats i'd recommend this 7c in Buthiers Tennis (very good)


oh, and if anyone with springy arms fancies (as far as i'm aware) a great FA: LH in the crimp the guy has in shot, RH pinching just below this crimp then dyno to top with LH. Prob 7c-7c+. Couldnt stick as it was wet

[neil h]

this looks good. not seen it in the flesh though.

I know Neils done it so possibily its on one of the Font doses he does?

cheers adam, indeed it is this months dose, just for you guys, will upload it today just finishing the editing, I done a load of good 7c's this month

[neil h]

as promised, a load of nice classic 7c's some soft some hard, including that ecille de lune thing, there is a few other things aswell, good warm ups for the routes

enjoy

[account_inactive]

What is the lowball thing that Huffy posted?

[neil h]

its deux faux un plat reel

first problem on the vid above

[account_inactive]

Good arrows!

[neil h]

Good arrows!

that boulder always has arrows 

[andy_e]

Another great vid! Got me psyched for trying to find something snowy, dry, hard and slappy today!

[neil h]

good, as long as i get at least 1 person psyched then my work is done

[Richie Crouch]

I think if I was aiming at a few 7C's in font I'd most want to get on Berezina, Eclipse, Big Boss, Hotline, L'Arrache Cœur and Noir Desir. Typing that has just made me think twice about sacking off font for swiss this year...hmm  ???

[Jim]

I know where you are more likely to tick 7c....



 its not in france