[T_B]

I have 3 days in Font this weekend and would like to try a 7c potentially. I favour burly stuff with OK holds, rather than anything super slopey or roofy. Probably my best effort in the forest is Hotline, and I'd be looking for something else in that vein. Or a harder version of something like Onde de Choc or L'Etrave a Sucre. I know about the usual classics at Cuvier/Rempart etc.

On the list to have a closer look at:

Irreversible
L'Arrache Couer
Coup de Lune
Pancras Assis

Any other ideas? And stuff around 7b - 7b+ that's away from the usual areas/worth seeking out. Rocher Greau looks very good...

[dave]

coup de lune looks well monster. if you're looking at arrache couer you'll need quite a few mats and some spotters.

i've never been to greau selecta but have heard mixed things.

you could look at pancras assis at mont pivot.

[T_B]

Have always wanted to try L' Arrache coer. There are 3 of us, so it's a possibility... but then I'm keen to avoid the usual places i.e. a bit  with Isatis/Cuviere

[cofe]

Greau is OK: Supplment d'Armes and the other stuff on that bloc - good highballs, Faux Fuyant (needs good nick), Les Conquistadores is well fingery. Plus, Tigre et Dragon is there - it's worth a trip just to see it. Wow.

Supplement d'armes (climbs prow then swings onto slab for top):



you been to buthiers tom? some fine lines there.

[a dense loner]

reckon you should get on irreversible tom, while there bagerra as well. vandale at outlying j.a. martin has really good moves tho not as aesthetically pleasing as irreversible, while there l'etrave as well. whilst pancras assis is quality i think it takes a little longer to work out. tho in my defence i have not done any of these

[T_B]

you been to buthiers tom? some fine lines there.

Yeah I was looking at Supplement des armes and it's various sitters - looks good. Have to admit I'd love to see Tiger and Dragon.

Climbed at Buthiers once - lady big claques/mono wall so would be keen to go back. I seem to remember there's a nice looking wall just near mono doigt - Flagrand Desir which I seem to remember looked like it had holds on it...

[T_B]

reckon you should get on irreversible tom, while there bagerra as well. vandale at outlying j.a. martin has really good moves tho not as aesthetically pleasing as irreversible, while there l'etrave as well. whilst pancras assis is quality i think it takes a little longer to work out. tho in my defence i have not done any of these

know what you mean about Pancras as did the stand up and tho thought the sitter looked doable, it looks v complicated and power sapping...

Yes, I had clocked Vandale and have only tried L'Etrave in crap conditions when that crimp felt like... urrgh

[Johnny Brown]

With your height and finger strength you should be all over L'arrache coeur Tom. I could barely reach what I couldn't pull on.
Appartenance might be another to try, had a couple of ascents from Nige and Jon Barton!! recently.

[Somebody's Fool]

Nige's Appartenance beta looked a bit bunched for a big lad like Tom. But Pickles lanked it (the bottom at least) so would be a good one to try. Looked very tres bon.

Tour de Babel (7b+) at Dame Jouanne would be near the top of my list if I was a giant. In fact, it's near the top of my list anyway. Like wrestling a fridge off an episode of Cribs, with technical heels thrown in for good measure. Wonderful.

Also, on a Buthiers tip, La Ligne Blanche (next to Flagrand Desir) is well good once you've left the minging starting hold.

[T_B]

With your height and finger strength you should be all over L'arrache coeur Tom. I could barely reach what I couldn't pull on.
Appartenance might be another to try, had a couple of ascents from Nige and Jon Barton!! recently.

  Finger strength - I wish!! Though they are probably as strong as they've ever been at the moment, so I think that's another reason to get on L'Arrache...

Yes, I had a brief look at Appartenance once thinking it looked very doable. Like to look of the nice, flat landing as well.

[T_B]

Tour de Babel (7b+) at Dame Jouanne would be near the top of my list if I was a giant. In fact, it's near the top of my list anyway. Like wrestling a fridge off an episode of Cribs, with technical heels thrown in for good measure. Wonderful.

Sounds interesting... looks like a Dame Jouanne/Manoury visit has to be on the cards 

[The Sausage]

Totally down with the appartenance and tour de babel recommendations.

Check out Psychose at apremont, and at your height La Gaule at Cuvier looks amazing. It's french for erection, and underneath is a great squeeze slit slither thing, which is quite appropriate.

Do you use bleau.info - great for checking problems out without having to walk.

I reckon L'etrave at JA Martin looks great (checked it out one day in the rain), and it's an Edlinger problem. And i'd be tempted by controle technique at cuvier if i were 2 inches taller...

...but seriously, have a look at Psychose on bleau.info, it looks similar, but definitely better than hotline (!) and there's a beautiful lookin 7b just to the left (un idee en l'air) for Rach. perfect.

Have fun, bastardo!

[andy_e]

La ligne blanche looks so good, it's such a shame about that starting hold!

Do you think Salle Gosse would suit you? It's high on my list for when I'm strong!

[Jaspersharpe]

...but seriously, have a look at Psychose on bleau.info, it looks similar, but definitely better scarier than hotline

[Adam Lincoln]

coup de lune looks well monster. if you're looking at arrache couer you'll need quite a few mats and some spotters.

You might need a few pads for Coup De Lune as well. The slab to the left you climb over is a bit worrying. Amazing line, and lots of ways to make it easier rather than just using brute force. Though not sure you would get your big legs in the knee bar Tom!

Rocher Greau is quite dirty at the moment Tom. If thats the place that Chaos is at? It was officially closed because of dead falling trees, so people were not going as much. Few obvious things stay clean though, but wouldn't make a special trip there.

Hope you have got that camcorder bought and ready?

[cofe]

this looks good. not seen it in the flesh though.

[Jaspersharpe]

Jesus, look at the tickmarks.

[Adam Lincoln]

this looks good. not seen it in the flesh though.

I know Neils done it so possibily its on one of the Font doses he does?

[T_B]

Do you use bleau.info - great for checking problems out without having to walk.

Do boars poo in the woods?

Wow that Psychose looks amazing... but about E8! Never seen that before.

La Gaule looks to be worth checking out, hadn't clocked that one before.

[T_B]

Rocher Greau is quite dirty at the moment Tom.

Hope you have got that camcorder bought and ready?

Thanks for the tip.

Taking an old camcorder, as can't decide about a new one...

[a dense loner]

that photo of ecaille de lune makes it look much better than it is. forgot about control technique, they should make a guide with more stars

[nik at work]

Rocher Greau is quite dirty at the moment Tom. If thats the place that Chaos is at? It was officially closed because of dead falling trees, so people were not going as much. Few obvious things stay clean though, but wouldn't make a special trip there.

Are Toit de Greau/Chaos/Tigre et Dragon dirty? And if so, looking into your crystal ball, will they still be dirty at Easter? I'm about to start sulking so think carefully before you answer....

[Adam Lincoln]

Rocher Greau is quite dirty at the moment Tom. If thats the place that Chaos is at? It was officially closed because of dead falling trees, so people were not going as much. Few obvious things stay clean though, but wouldn't make a special trip there.

Are Toit de Greau/Chaos/Tigre et Dragon dirty? And if so, looking into your crystal ball, will they still be dirty at Easter? I'm about to start sulking so think carefully before you answer....

Don't fret child, they will be fine by then. They were the things that were pretty clean when i saw them. People still climbed there, just not as much, so some of the other stuff was a tad dirty.

[a dense loner]

what the 8a/8b+/8a? you do realise these overhang the other way don't you nic?

[Adam Lincoln]

what the 8a/8b+/8a? you do realise these overhang the other way don't you nic?

Nik is transformed into a steep ground crushing machine. You should check him out at the cliff. And he crushed Iron Man, at Trowbarrow which is pretty steep.