[dave]

humour me here:

anyone been to that little craglett which is south of carl wark/west of burbage south? the one you can see from b-south boulders. its in the 1991 guide on the start of Carl wark section, with guplets on toast here (sitdown mentioned on this site database).

went there last nite, was quite impressed. we located gulpets and the sitdown, which looked quite good, if a little dirty and lack of holds in the breaks higher up. Also a bit further on there was a little leaning blacok which we did from sitting, nice about V3 or something. probably done before, anyone? seemed a nice little problem. there were other bits and bobs there, and a black looking wall (like a overhangin version of blazing 48s) which had a reasonable mono at 8fot then breaks, this must be a project of soemones or at least been done?

Also on the way to this from the bend in the road after about 100 yards theres a jumble of low rocks you can see from the road on the valley rim, and we spotted a chalked problem, was a steep prow with slopers, pockets and a crack on the prow from a sitting at a flat jug. it was well cleaned and chalked, someone must know what this is? not really highball but the landing is stepped and the top is sloping. we did it and it was a superb problem actually. dunno about the grade maybe V4. If you wanta  nice spot with a nice problem then its worth going (was other stuff claked nearby but this was by far the best looking thing)

and finally does anyone know where this grimer problem is, mentioned in the database (i hope grimer knows!):

Unknown  V6
Little wall/arête with bulletholes just up the small valley from frogsmouth rock at the bend below Burbage South.

word :

[Bubba]

Richie Patterson has done a bit of stuff there in the past, as has John Welford I believe, but don't know anyone who knows the details.

John said there was loads of decent undocumented stuff in that area and up above the Secret Garden, etc.

[dave]

yeah the sitter to guplets is welfords according to the database. i knew it was going to be hard cos he didn't grade it 7b+.

the stuff behig savage garden used to be documented on cragx.com, there was a B6 (good looking, was wet when i saw it) and a tim hulley B10 or something.

[grimer]

The 'Grimer Problem' i presume is Guplets. How this happened is Mark Hundleby wanted to put a list of problems that people didn't visit much on apeindex, just for suggestions of new places to go. I hed been up there trying it, not knowing what it was, and just told him about it. Next thing I know it's got a grade and a name, but hey, it was my name, so i felt good about myself. And where's the harm in that?

Also, i was bouldering on a boulder last night (the way you do), one that is perched above Mother cap Quarry. You pass it on the way to Moth Cap. Some nice things ther in a gritty shelvey way for the boy who has done everything else. It's been brushed, is it documented anywhere?

[dave]

hasn't dan honeymad/de gay done summert on there, or did i just imagine that?

so does the guplets thing from standing start like on that slopey rail thing and go up for a couple of poor-ish pockets?

we also noticed the arete just right of that (i.e. almost in the VS crack) was semi-brushed, seemed about V2, but again had to jump off cso the top got shit.

you know owt of that prow with the crack near the road grimer? its proper bo.

[Johnny Brown]

Grimer wrote:

i was bouldering on a boulder last night (the way you do), one that is perched above Mother cap Quarry.

seem to remember the living legend Pat King had a few projects on here.

if only we had the vision...

[dobbin]

Ah, Pat King, indeed a legend. When I first moved to Sheffield Pat lived on my floor for about three months and many odd deals were brokered. Not least of which was my mountain bike in exchange for a suit bag.

Cheers Pat.

[Bubba]

I don't think you're the first to have suffered one of Pat's "deals"...

[Jim]

Also, i was bouldering on a boulder last night (the way you do), one that is perched above Mother cap Quarry. You pass it on the way to Moth Cap. Some nice things ther in a gritty shelvey way for the boy who has done everything else. It's been brushed, is it documented anywhere?

Think I had a go on these boulders years ago - very gritty as I seem to remember - couple of nice little problems tho

[Adam Lincoln]

I don't think you're the first to have suffered one of Pat's "deals"...

Is he the one with longish dready kinda hair? He frequented my local for a while...

[Bubba]

Last time I saw him he had a rather fine mullet  :D

[Adam Lincoln]

Last time I saw him he had a rather fine mullet  :D

Ey! there aint owt wrong with a mullet  :roll:

[Bubba]

Ey! there aint owt wrong with a mullet  :roll:

Hmmmmmm.......

[Adam Lincoln]

Ey! there aint owt wrong with a mullet  :roll:

Hmmmmmm.......

Err... yes....

Okay, some mullets  :rocker:

[Johnny Brown]

You may mock...Pat's mullet apparently made him a fortune 'modelling'

[Jim]

You don't have to display your school photos for all to see

[Bubba]

damn, rumbled  :wink:

[Bubba]

Check this beauty out:



Ah, the joys of the internet....

[dobbin]

Pat's mullet was (and probably is) an ironic Mullet (ta Dylan :wink: ) circa Hoxton square, Londinium - uber trendy.

[dave]

this is that bo prow i was on about, V5ish?

[Scouse D]

Nice Jimmy Hill from the Cofe.

[dave]

he's all that.

[mark]

we located gulpets and the sitdown, which looked quite good, if a little dirty and lack of holds in the breaks higher up. Also a bit further on there was a little leaning blacok which we did from sitting, nice about V3 or something. probably done before, anyone? seemed a nice little problem. there were other bits and bobs there, and a black looking wall (like a overhangin version of blazing 48s) which had a reasonable mono at 8fot then breaks, this must be a project of soemones or at least been done?

One other Welford problem thereabouts is the wall right of Guplets (well, the wall just right of the crack just right of Guplets). It's a bit highball and John had a look on a rope before he did it. Can't remember what grade he said but it'll be either 7b+ (he thought it was tricky) or 7c+ (he thought it was nails). He did say it was very good.

[Scouse D]

i hope he thought it was 7c+, cos it looks fuckin mental hard.

[dave]

:eek3:

Fuck me pink, thats a mental line! theres nowt but shit monos and toss-all higher up. i just about found a mono that was reasonable (i.e. a flat bit that would take half a pad fo a finger) at about 8foot if you stand on a block to start - i take it you jump from this to a hit sloper break. monster monster!

[chris]

this is called danny's wall 7c+, originally climbed by danny brooks and reclimbed by jonhy welford a couple of years ago.

very good line and also very difficult to get established on the problem let alone climb the damn thing :cry:

good luck dave! :wink:

[Bubba]

Danny was a strong little mofo wasn't he? See him about a bit but not sure if he even still climbs.

[chris]

dont know who danny is, but yeah his problems are hard, the only two i know about are; the above and danny's problem at stanage, again pretty hard at 8a.

[Bubba]

I used to share a house with him years ago - originally from the South West but been in Sheffield for years. Quite short but very strong fingers...

[chris]

what other problems has he done, if any?

the two i know about are very good :D

when was this guy climbin'...early 90's?

[Bubba]

Not sure what else he did apart from his "Danny's" problems.

late 80's / early 90's. I think Danny's Problem was put up in the first wave of development on the Business Boulder by Jason Myers et al....

[mark]

I shared a house with Danny for a while as well: Rundle Road, one of the classic Sheffield climbers' houses. Did you ever play at any of the Christmas dos there, Bubba?

Danny was very strong but was probably more into training than actually going out climbing. Used to do hideous deadhangs on the fingerboard that hung in the hall. Seen him whipping past in his Westfield in the last couple of years but haven't seen him on the crags for a long time.

[Bubba]

Ah Rundle Road  :D  I lived there for a bit too, forgot you lived there as well.

Yes, definitely played at at least one party there.  Doesn't Danny own the house now?