[brandon]

Hi. I was wondering if anybody had any beta on this boulder problem, or if any one can direct me to a previous post of the same subject if one should excist. Any beta on feet positions? The hand sequence looks pritty straight forward.

Thanks alot for help in advance!

[brandon]

Ok Danny's problem sit starts on the low holds of jerrys traverse towards th end of that problem. And comes up threw two crap crimps??? Ring any Bells

[GCW]

Well done, you nearly managed 2 hours 30 minutes before getting shirty.   

Dense may be along with advice, although he may just say "pull harder".

[Monolith]

Foot beta!?

Did Jerry not teach you anything!?

[abarro81]

A few weeks ago I did the stand up, which seems to have been upgraded on Bonjoy's list of doom to 7b. Now, it didn't feel too bad at 7a to me, and whilst I was talking to Andy Harris he mentioned that the LH crimp used to be smaller/worse. I don't know how recent the change is, and whether it thus needs re-downgrading or not, but from a very brief play on the sitter I did wonder if it would change the beta about reversing the hand sequence making it easier...

[andy_e]

anyone for danny's?

sorry, had to be done

[Dr T]

anyone for danny's?

sorry, had to be done

thought dense would jump in to this thread feet first...

[dobbin]

Maybe noone knows because its bobbins?

[cowboyhat]

i think there is a different sequence depending on whether you take the first, (lower, right-hand side), crimp on **HTop with your left or right hand; one making the move into **Htop from the shelf easier but the last move harder, the other way making the move from the shelf the crux but the last move of **htop easier.

[Andy B]

...I was talking to Andy Harris he mentioned that the LH crimp used to be smaller/worse. I don't know how recent the change is...

That's strange, because that crimp definitely got worse since I first tried Danny's in 2005. There used to be an incut section of the edge towards the upper left hand side of it (which didn't look new) that snapped, then crumbled some more afterwards, leaving the whole hold more rounded than it used to be.

Any beta on feet positions?

I used the obvious low good foot ramp to start, then the higher of the two horizontal incuts on Jerry's.   

[a dense loner]

i'll second andy

on a brief note. i had delusions of grandeur the other week trying jerry's into danny's. some rock cat wanted beta on said danny's. i told them one of the sequences, he then did the first move with his other hand after receiving shouts of 'encouragement'  he matched on the lower handhold. i went ballistic since there is nowhere to match. there is now somewhere to match. 2009 someone died

[Monolith]

Please never be without internet use for such long periods again lee. Laughter is the best medicine.

[fatdoc]

 

The genius needed this thread to return to the fore