Maurice Gibb - sent (Read 7679 times)

hongkongstuey · October 06, 2003, 01:51:43 am

spotted this over on Cocktalk:

Quote from: "AndiT"

Pat Rainbird has made the first ascent of the large dyno project at Gibb Tor, which starts on the jug at 9' to the left of Gibber Crack. Pat said he didn't know how to grade it, but solved the problem by doing the dyno double in order to hold the flatty at the top.

A fine effort.

james · October 06, 2003, 07:32:45 am

It was realy impresive to watch. He just flew double handed and latched it. Like Andi said, a fine effort.
Cheers

James

dave · October 06, 2003, 10:36:37 am

also at gibb, this looks pretty fly:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/i/9355.jpg

Adam Lincoln · October 06, 2003, 10:41:29 am

Quote from: "dave"

also at gibb, this looks pretty fly:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/i/9355.jpg

Yeah, gets E6! My arse! Though i did have lots of mats :?

Adam Lincoln · October 06, 2003, 10:45:24 am

Quote from: "james"

It was realy impresive to watch. He just flew double handed and latched it. Like Andi said, a fine effort.
Cheers

James

Nice one, must have done it when i left. Its a long way and quite a fall bgack down again.

Good effort

Adam Lincoln · October 06, 2003, 11:15:07 am

Also new this weekend. Sam Whittiker did a new variation on Tier Drop at Ramshaw. From the runnel go out left to another runner then upto a slopey topout

http://www.uploadit.org/files/061003-SamWhittaker_1stascentTierDropLeftHand2_V8_Ramshaw.jpg

http://www.uploadit.org/files/061003-SamWhittaker_1stascentTierDropLeftHand5_V8_Ramshaw.jpg

Think he said about V8ish.

dave · October 06, 2003, 11:21:17 am

ahhh, tiredrop, now thats a proper bo bt of rock. recon thats one of the finest problems in the peak - no doubt. i take it that second runnel is quite poor then on this new thing?

anyone know what tierdrop gets from sitting? bo.

Adam Lincoln · October 06, 2003, 11:23:29 am

Quote from: "dave"

ahhh, tiredrop, now thats a proper bo bt of rock. recon thats one of the finest problems in the peak - no doubt. i take it that second runnel is quite poor then on this new thing?

anyone know what tierdrop gets from sitting? bo.

Did Tier Drop Friday. Mega!

Would be same grade as standup for the sitter, no harder

Yeah runnel is okay if you get it in the good bit. You have to go to a sloper first then go again

dave · October 06, 2003, 11:27:12 am

nah its deffo harder from sitting. it only adds like 4 moves but i found it makes a massive difference, much more tiring. hence i fell off the slap loads of times from sitting but could still do the nomal way every time. also you loose more skin on it!

Adam Lincoln · October 06, 2003, 11:28:07 am

Quote from: "dave"

nah its deffo harder from sitting. it only adds like 4 moves but i found it makes a massive difference, much more tiring. hence i fell off the slap loads of times from sitting but could still do the nomal way every time. also you loose more skin on it!

What grade is the standup?

dave · October 06, 2003, 11:31:40 am

int it supposed to be font 7a+/V7.

Adam Lincoln · October 06, 2003, 11:32:34 am

Quote from: "dave"

int it supposed to be font 7a+/V7.

Aye, sounds bout right. I would have said V6 though... V7 sitter?

Dunno, i cant grade flour :-)

Adam Lincoln · October 06, 2003, 11:34:04 am

Quote from: "dave"

int it supposed to be font 7a+/V7.

What Gibbering Wreck supposed to get? Other than the E6 grade for no mats :?

dave · October 06, 2003, 11:44:17 am

in that martin veale OTE article there was a photo of it captioned as 7a+. I think its is, say, a fair bit harder than the dog's arse roof at cul de chien, so i recon V7 is fair. maybe the sitter is V8.

Johnny Brown · October 08, 2003, 01:17:33 pm

good effort The Rain Bird!!

if only I'd been there in good conditions...

Also good to see westie whittaker's fine footwork on display. And is that object-of-all-airlie's-dreams Will Perrin spotting?

Has anyone done the direct start to tierdrop? - i.e. the original start, using whats left of the broken hold, rather than the new start to the right.

All youse talking about sit starts are, methinks, missing the point of this bit of rock.

Adam Lincoln · October 08, 2003, 01:21:05 pm

Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

good effort The Rain Bird!!

if only I'd been there in good conditions...

Also good to see westie whittaker's fine footwork on display. And is that object-of-all-airlie's-dreams Will Perrin spotting?

Has anyone done the direct start to tierdrop? - i.e. the original start, using whats left of the broken hold, rather than the new start to the right.

All youse talking about sit starts are, methinks, missing the point of this bit of rock.

It is the Perrin spotting. Well errr, spotted :-)

Will fell off the very last move and landed horizontally on pure Tobias. (20 feet below) :roll:

Bit of a welsh outing that day. Patch was amougst the action aswell

Johnny Brown · October 08, 2003, 01:24:24 pm

Is Patch's arm better then?

never trust a wiregate...

Adam Lincoln · October 08, 2003, 01:25:10 pm

Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

Is Patch's arm better then?

never trust a wiregate...

Seemed to be. Was taping it.

What happend?

Johnny Brown · October 08, 2003, 01:35:52 pm

He was posing for Ray Wood on some E5 or 6 on the rainbow slab.

After much fannying about waiting for Ray to be satisfied, he fell (I think) off onto the (one) bomber runner. The wiregate unclipped and he hit the deck.

twas a DMM prowire - the very light ones, though Jason Pickles broke his back after a WC wildwire unclipped in yosemite. I could go on...

dave · October 08, 2003, 01:41:10 pm

Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

Has anyone done the direct start to tierdrop? - i.e. the original start, using whats left of the broken hold, rather than the new start to the right.

please elaborate. i don't remember a broken hold when i've been there.

Adam Lincoln · October 08, 2003, 01:45:55 pm

Quote from: "dave"

Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
Has anyone done the direct start to tierdrop? - i.e. the original start, using whats left of the broken hold, rather than the new start to the right.

please elaborate. i don't remember a broken hold when i've been there.

Is this coming in from the left/directish

This was the original way it was done, and was easier than the newer right starting way.

dave · October 08, 2003, 01:57:32 pm

soz i'm still none the wiser. as far as i can remember there are no holds to the left of the way we all started it, only a shit dish very high up thats used as a foothold. the way we did it was shart on soem decent holds, left hadn up to sharp sidepull crimp, slap right to the jug rain, then work left 2 moves to the big pinch. are we saying theres a start further left then this? :huh:

Adam Lincoln · October 08, 2003, 01:59:54 pm

Quote from: "dave"

soz i'm still none the wiser. as far as i can remember there are no holds to the left of the way we all started it, only a shit dish very high up thats used as a foothold. the way we did it was shart on soem decent holds, left hadn up to sharp sidepull crimp, slap right to the jug rain, then work left 2 moves to the big pinch. are we saying theres a start further left then this? :huh:

Think you sort of get on the ledge, and use some undercuts or summat to gain the tuffa.

dave · October 08, 2003, 02:02:34 pm

sounds a bit wank to me. and thats the original way? jesus. nowt like missing all the obvious holds. :roll:

grimer · October 08, 2003, 02:21:50 pm

apparently it used to be easier when you went from an undercut out left along the shelf. You can see it in the old hardback On Peak Rock picture. Still leaves the slap at the top though.