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V4 - Obscence Cleft Boulder @ Bridies (Read 1953 times)

squeek

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V4 - Obscence Cleft Boulder @ Bridies
February 26, 2004, 03:54:17 pm
Help needed!

On the Obscene Cleft Boulder, the V4 on the
near right Arete, as you're looking at the
Cleft.  The one up to the break then it
drops off.  The start has lots of foot holds.

My sequence is right hand in good pinch, left
hand on good hold.  Left hand out to left pocket,
left foot up, stand up a bit so I'm undercutting
pocket, right foot up again, then left foot really
high near my left hand which feels ok to go for
a rockover.

Everytime I try and move my hand to the next holds
I fall off.  There's a crappy hold out for your
right kind of a side pull, and it looks like a
lot of people grab the arete a bit higher up.

What's the knowledge?  (Besides get some technique
and strength!)

Cheers.

GCW

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#1 Re: V4 - Obscence Cleft Boulder @ Bridies
November 19, 2008, 11:18:19 pm
Have you done this yet, Squeek?

squeek

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#2 Re: V4 - Obscence Cleft Boulder @ Bridies
November 20, 2008, 01:20:12 pm
No.  I've not been on it for years though.  I'll have to go up there and give it a try, to see if I've gotten any better in 4.5 years.

squeek

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#3 Re: V4 - Obscence Cleft Boulder @ Bridies
January 15, 2009, 12:59:50 pm
Have you done this yet, Squeek?

I went back over Christmas and did it.  It's quite a good little problem, if you're passing, or haven't done it.  Main thing to do is use the starting hold that is very good for your left hand, with your right hand and climb straight up the arete, rather than on the right hand side of it.

 

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