UKBouldering.com

The Promise Flashed (Read 121481 times)

TomP

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 349
  • Karma: +48/-1
    • www.tompeckittclimbing.com
#25 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 09:55:09 am
I thought this was going to be done in the "ground-up highball boulder problem" style soon, after all that attention recently. Was going to have look myself when I manage to leave Yorkshire and feel brave. I actually thought it would be Ned and/or Dan as they seem to like that method. This news looks and sounds totally feasible to me and if the kid has flashed 8a then flashing higball 7b or 7b+ would be easy. In fact I'm sure there are quite a few people who are capable. People flash that grade regularly.

I'm not entirely sure why there seems to be such controvery and doubt over this guys ascents. Surely someone knows him or has seen that he is pretty good. He'll probably pretty disallusioned with all the negitive feedback from what is supposed to be a community which encourages young talent. I really hope there's no danger of alienating him and not hearing about impressive climbing. That would be a real shame.

With regards to the site. It sounds like Scott is just going out climbing and people are taking note and reporting about him. He himself hasn't reported to a website saying "I did this or that" (I think). It's not proof but suggests that people have seen him or have total faith in his ability.

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#26 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 09:58:55 am
I agree that regards whether or not scott flashed the promise, or his other notable ascents - the relevant details are who was there, and photographic or video evidence etc, but its hard to ignore the apparently consistent disparity between his indoor performance and his outdoor claims, especially compared to the backdrop of knowing how long it took others to do things he claimed to have done in a  session when these 'others' are seen climbing well indoors.

dave

  • Guest
#27 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 10:01:44 am
I find it remarkable that anyone thinks this is highballable without some serious specialist matting, ladders etc - the fall off the crux would take you unto unmattable no-mans land, and not to forgot the massive block in the rest of the landing. plus theres gear which although prone to being kicked out, has held a few falls so must be worth placing (unless all that falling of has ruined the placement or something).

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9935
  • Karma: +561/-8
#28 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 10:17:17 am
I find it remarkable that anyone thinks this is highballable without some serious specialist matting, ladders etc - the fall off the crux would take you unto unmattable no-mans land, and not to forgot the massive block in the rest of the landing. plus theres gear which although prone to being kicked out, has held a few falls so must be worth placing (unless all that falling of has ruined the placement or something).
My thoughts exactly. Even more remarkable when you consider that Ned and Dan didn't manage to highball the route above a hefty amount of padding when they tried a few weeks back. Ned mentioned that the likely fall from the crux would have been back first and hard to land safely due to the high left heel.

TomP

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 349
  • Karma: +48/-1
    • www.tompeckittclimbing.com
#29 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 10:23:44 am
I find it remarkable that anyone thinks this is highballable without some serious specialist matting, ladders etc - the fall off the crux would take you unto unmattable no-mans land, and not to forgot the massive block in the rest of the landing. plus theres gear which although prone to being kicked out, has held a few falls so must be worth placing (unless all that falling of has ruined the placement or something).
My thoughts exactly. Even more remarkable when you consider that Ned and Dan didn't manage to highball the route above a hefty amount of padding when they tried a few weeks back. Ned mentioned that the likely fall from the crux would have been back first and hard to land safely due to the high left heel.

Ok fair dos. I have only seen the route once and not properly looked at it. It's been years since I climbed in the peak. In fact I think it was when James was working it ages ago. I just thought and heard from another climber that this method may be possible, although obviously risky.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#30 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 10:27:33 am
Due to the reasons given many times in this thead and the others about scott, there is no way his acsents can be taken seriously.
This isn't news, its bullshit

north_country_boy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 939
  • Karma: +37/-0
#31 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 10:32:50 am

My thoughts exactly. Even more remarkable when you consider that Ned and Dan didn't manage to highball the route above a hefty amount of padding when they tried a few weeks back. Ned mentioned that the likely fall from the crux would have been back first and hard to land safely due to the high left heel.
[/quote]

I was also aware of this information Bonjoy, and is another reason why I am sceptical!

the fall off the crux would take you unto unmattable no-mans land, and not to forgot the massive block in the rest of the landing. plus theres gear which although prone to being kicked out, has held a few falls so must be worth placing (unless all that falling of has ruined the placement or something).

Agreed, it just isn't worth soloing it when the gear is there, and has been tested repeatedly.

Due to the reasons given many times in this thead and the others about scott, there is no way his acsents can be taken seriously.
This isn't news, its bullshit

It is becoming Tiresome.......even Si O'conner's initial claims weren't met with such scepticism...

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#32 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 10:35:28 am
st least si O' gave us some amazingly laughable photo's to keep ourselves amused with

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9935
  • Karma: +561/-8
#33 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 10:37:32 am
After the Joker/Ace ascents without substantiation there was a heavy onus on Scott to have credible backup for future ascents. He can hardly be unaware of this after the previous claims and the subsequent reaction. Neither can he claim to not be publicizing ascents as everything since has rapidly become common knowledge somehow, probably thanks to the 8a.nu scorecard. As pointed out weeks ago, the more that is claimed without back-up and the bigger the claims, the less people will give him the benefit of the doubt. For what it's worth, if no back-up turns up for this latest ascent my dis-belief will be firmly unsuspended.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#34 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 10:39:06 am
Well Liam Copley the author of the article Adam has linked, is registered and occasionally posts in these forums.  Perhaps he has the evidence that is required to substantiate his report (assuming they are one and the same) :shrug:


JohnH

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 58
  • Karma: +6/-0
#35 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:00:26 am
 :o  Amazing effort  :thumbsup: ,maybe it's just me but the way I see it is that the truth will out in the end anyway, so there's no point being overly sceptical or negative.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#36 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:03:25 am
That makes no sence

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#37 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:10:18 am

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9935
  • Karma: +561/-8
#38 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:14:50 am
:o  Amazing effort  :thumbsup: ,maybe it's just me but the way I see it is that the truth will out in the end anyway, so there's no point being overly sceptical or negative.
History suggest that the truth won't 'out', it never does. Please enlighten me with an example of a contested ascent which has been proved one way or another.
What does happen over time is that rational people form a consensus based on the most likely  explanation of events. Obviously you'll not be part of this process as you clearly equate skepticism with negativity.
« Last Edit: January 09, 2009, 01:23:49 pm by Bonjoy »

JohnH

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 58
  • Karma: +6/-0
#39 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:17:18 am


:lol:

Aye, you and Jim are right, I'm just a blind optimist, nevermind  :-[

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13472
  • Karma: +682/-68
  • Whut
#40 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:29:32 am
No offense to Adam, but given the idiotic "source" (the toddlers' so-called website, not AL posting it, that is) of this "news" item, could we have it moved to The Shit Heap, please.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#41 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:41:45 am
(the toddlers' so-called website, not AL posting it, that is)

Thats rather condescending.  You may take issue over the the validity of the content but thats a completely separate issue (for what its worth I think the site looks quite good and is well designed).  Name calling won't do you any favours (ya old git  :-* )
« Last Edit: January 09, 2009, 11:53:24 am by slack---line, Reason: removal of extrenuous word »

jwi

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4242
  • Karma: +331/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#42 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:47:23 am
:o  Amazing effort  :thumbsup: ,maybe it's just me but the way I see it is that the truth will out in the end anyway, so there's no point being overly sceptical or negative.
History suggest that the truth won't 'out', it never does. Please enlighten me with an example of a contested ascent which has been proved one way or another.

Sometimes it does. Or sort of, anyway.
Quote from: Björn Pohl in a 8a.nu article
Rosta's ascent of Le Miroir des vanités, 8Bb, was questioned. He was supposed to have done this traverse in late April, and, as we all know, this is hardly the ideal time if you want to send hard stuff in Fontainebleau... Anyway, Rosta invited the reporter to go with him back to Fontainbleau to see for himself. Said and done, they went there and Rosta climbed the traverse in front of the reporter. This was in July...

Quote from: Björn Pohl
After a trip to the Grampians and the famous Hollow Mountain Cave, he claimed to have climbed most of the (then) hardest lines, including Cave Rave and Eve Rave both 8Bb+. Things like "he wasn't there" and "I saw him trying that thing and he wasn't even close" were flying through the air (and also the internet) . Then it turned out his hardest ascents were caught on film..

Karl

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 46
  • Karma: +0/-4
    • My band, metal. more metal than yer mam's ketal.
#43 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:49:13 am
Jealousy is an horrific thing to deal with. you're all getting past your prime and i understand you're a little bit peeved some youth has turned up and dispatched your dream wish-list in the blink of an eye.  :P
But seriously, ripping on what is the best talent in climbing in the last few years in such a manner is pretty rubbish.

I am sure we have been over this before, with the ace and the joker saga. He goes out and he does it, he doesn't take along some cock lord from CLIMB to take pictures. Or get his mates to video this fine ascent so he can post it on here so he can get virtual arse slapping from you all.

I am sure Scott will post on here when he gets back from Font, with his big fictional tick list no doubt eh boys?

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9628
  • Karma: +264/-4
#44 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:53:59 am
selective quoting doesn't really aid your point.

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1367
  • Karma: +73/-2
#45 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:57:54 am
FFS.
The boy didn't flash the joker therefore we all doubt him. I am not jealous of this kid. I want him to do well but he's making big claims at the top end of the sport which aren't to be taken lightly.
PLEASE CAN ONE WITNESS STEP FORWARD???!!!

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29276
  • Karma: +634/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#46 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 11:58:37 am
Karl, seeing as you appear to be close to the source, just tell us in a simple one word answer, did he flash The Promise or didn't he?


north_country_boy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 939
  • Karma: +37/-0
#47 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 12:00:46 pm
But seriously, ripping on what is the best talent in climbing in the last few years in such a manner is pretty rubbish.

I hope this is some kind of joke?

I am sure Scott will post on here when he gets back from Font, with his big fictional tick list no doubt eh boys?

I for one can't wait....... Spanish, French, who cares.......just watch my back....

Karl, seeing as you appear to be close to the source, just tell us in a simple one word answer, did he you see him flash The Promise or didn't henot?

Karl

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 46
  • Karma: +0/-4
    • My band, metal. more metal than yer mam's ketal.
#48 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 12:01:29 pm
Yes.
He also did the joker, and the ace and brad pitt in the style that was reported.

Scott doesn't lie. I'd trust him with my life. Can we all get on with our own shit now rather than tear a good kid to bits?


Karl

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 46
  • Karma: +0/-4
    • My band, metal. more metal than yer mam's ketal.
#49 Re: The Promise Flashed
January 09, 2009, 12:03:15 pm
But seriously, ripping on what is the best talent in climbing in the last few years in such a manner is pretty rubbish.

I hope this is some kind of joke?

---

Dunno man, you're quite funny. You tell me?
Flashing Font 8a, 8B in a few hours? E8 ground up? not something special?



 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal