[Tris]

Thinking of heading down there soon - is the NWB guidebook the best/only guide for the area or is there a more up to date/alternative resource? Maybe an online db etc?

Cheers in advance...

[BenF]

Panton's NWB is the only one available.  I suggest you read through the NWB website and add any extra lines that have been reported since publication and that interest you.  Annotate that guidebook!  There was an old article that described the bouldering round the headland but I can't remember which magazine it was in.  If you do head round to Talferach the deecent lines are fairly obvious (here are some further additions: http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=213).

[SA Chris]

There was a Climber article a few years back, and I'm sure Pano has put together a Stone Circles article on it. Not sure what editions though.

[Tris]

Thanks guys - yeah I have that Climber article, I'll dig it out. Thanks for the link Ben, much appreciated!

Just asking about online as I thought there may be wetpaint page or something?

[dave]

trwyn talfarach is pretty poor compared to porth ysgo, i'd avoid it like the plague.

[BenF]

trwyn talfarach is pretty poor compared to porth ysgo, i'd avoid it like the plague.

I disagree but then I've always fancied a bit of black death.  Obviously, if you're a first or second or third time visitor, you're gonna want to get to Ysgo and do the classics.  But Talfarach does have some excellent problems in a wonderful setting, with a glorious approach down the steep slope at the headland.  That lovely V4 crack being a good example, Bardsey Blues (the crazy roof crack above the hole, I think), Solace Arete, Phobia of Fishy Smells being other good problems worth seeking out.    But for a first visit stick to Porth Ysgo and certainly don't bother with Porth Nefoedd unless you're a repeat offender looking for obscurity. 

[dave]

it does have about half a dozen nice V4s or something like that, in a nice location. however this does not a good bouldering venue make. the approach is a ballache, long, and then just moving between these problems is a drag, falling up and down various gullies and boulder chokes with all your bags and mats, and then the problems generally have poor landings even by ysgo standards. the non-climbing to climbing time ratio for this place is about 100:1. its a great location with a tiny amount of bouldering, but for me this ain't a "bouldering venue", given the company its in. i was incredibly disappointed. no doubt its great if you're a local with time to burn and no more pressing projects to be addressing.

[cofe]

i thought talfarach was OK. sure, it's not Porth Ysgo, but it's a decent adventure questing out to the headland and then scrambling over these massive blocks to get to the problems. there are some good probs there too.

as Ben says, it's worth a trip once you've been to ysgo a few times. go ysgo in AM, then talfarach in PM. 

[BenF]

as Ben says, it's worth a trip once you've been to ysgo a few times. go ysgo in AM, then talfarach in PM. 

Perfect.

The approach is a ballache, long, and then just moving between these problems is a drag, falling up and down various gullies and boulder chokes with all your bags and mats, and then the problems generally have poor landings even by ysgo standards.

Jeez, it's not that bad.  The right hand side is just as bouldery as Ysgo and there's some great problem all over the place.  Okay so it's not like wandering round Isatis, but I think it's quite a special place to go climbing.  And everyone I know that's been down there with me agrees.  So there.   

[Monolith]

Take me with you next time you're going just so as I have something else to be in disagreement about with you.

[BenF]

You wouldn't make it past the walk in sunshine.  Them fashion trainers would leave you heading head first into the sea.

[dave]

you're all on crack.

as Ben says, it's worth a trip once you've been to ysgo a few times. go ysgo in AM, then talfarach in PM. 

Perfect.

Perfect in the sense that you can go all-out as ysgo not wrrying about your skin cos you know you'll not be bothered climbing in the afternoon.

[Monolith]

I know it's not strictly on topic, but approaching Ysgo there's a crag in or visible from Rhiw that seems to rise diagonally from right to left. I think I heard a long time ago that it's not worth looking at but certainly from a short distance away it looks pretty immense. Is anyone in the know on this?

[(woz)]

I had a look there once. It wasn't as good as it looked, and I didn't put my boots on.

[Monolith]

A real shame!

[BenF]

I had a look there once. It wasn't as good as it looked, and I didn't put my boots on.

The same has been said by pretty much everyone who has eventually got round to checking that crag out.

[dave]

is this the inland-facing crag? I think theres been stuff posted on here about it in years gone by, I think dave samsonite said he'd been.

[Adam Lincoln]

Not sure if its classed as trwyn talfarach but if you keep going round the headland from Solice arete for about 15 mins of scrambling (or you can approach from top, if you know location) there is an amazing wall. A lovely project on there. Now that is worth checking out. Specially if you are with a largish crew with a fair few pads.One of best looking projects around. Helps to have a bit of reach too Dave.

[Falling Down]

I had a look there once. It wasn't as good as it looked, and I didn't put my boots on.

The same has been said by pretty much everyone who has eventually got round to checking that crag out.

I went there with a rope and gear nearly 20 years ago and led some easy routes. IIRC there's quite a good hanging fin thing that would go at E3 to E6 or V sumting with matts.

[dave]

Not sure if its classed as trwyn talfarach but if you keep going round the headland from Solice arete for about 15 mins of scrambling (or you can approach from top, if you know location) there is an amazing wall. A lovely project on there. Now that is worth checking out. Specially if you are with a largish crew with a fair few pads.One of best looking projects around. Helps to have a bit of reach too Dave.

i believe i've seen photos of this - wall with peetering out crack? I've heard its well hard at the top.

[Adam Lincoln]

Not sure if its classed as trwyn talfarach but if you keep going round the headland from Solice arete for about 15 mins of scrambling (or you can approach from top, if you know location) there is an amazing wall. A lovely project on there. Now that is worth checking out. Specially if you are with a largish crew with a fair few pads.One of best looking projects around. Helps to have a bit of reach too Dave.

i believe i've seen photos of this - wall with peetering out crack? I've heard its well hard at the top.

More scary than that hard. But that sounds like the one. Doylo has footage of us trying it a few years back. Probably go at about V9. Stunning though.

[Monolith]

Think I'm aware of this somewhere in my mindtank although can't recall being shown any footage. If  Doyle might take a second to sift through the reams of man to man rimming on his hard drive, it'd be good to see it...

[BenF]

You mean the Gabbro Wall?  Featured in Higginson's film Aquamarine, with footage of the V8 groove and the project crack/wall being climbed/attempted by a range of people including Sam Whittaker if I remember rightly.

Monolith if you want to watch this film, ask Fatneck.  I think he has a copy and if it's not him, it's Owen who has a copy in our neck of the woods.

[Adam Lincoln]

You mean the Gabbro Wall?  Featured in Higginson's film Aquamarine, with footage of the V8 groove and the project crack/wall being climbed/attempted by a range of people including Sam Whittaker if I remember rightly.

That's the one, i heard Sam had tried it.

[Monolith]

Ahh OK. I was thinking it was something else. Yeah that Aquamarine will probably be mine!

[Pantontino]

To the OP: like BenF said, you've already got all the information that you need. It was always my idea with NWB.com that it would complement the guidebook. The definitive up to date record for P Ysgo exists - okay, so you've actually got to make the effort to scribble stuff in the guide, but that's the fun bit if you ask me.

There are a few of the Climber magazine Stone Circles articles (as text versions, and therefore not quite as useful as the fully topoed original versions) on line, including this P Ysgo one:

http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?cate=3&topic=17&item=107

With regard to Trwyn Talfarach, there were plans to produce a small scale Lleyn bouldering guide, but that never got off the ground, so I've decided to put all the headland stuff in the next N Wales Bouldering guide (2010).

[Doylo]

The footage of the project will appear in a DVD, i'm hammering out negotiations with Pantontino to make a freebie DVD to go with the next guide. If his financial team can make me a good enough offer then you will all see the footage.

[cofe]

dis ting, innit:

[Johnny Brown]

Nice word. I don't see that lasting long with the kinds of pads peeps are carrying now - what have we got there, like one and a half small pod mats?

[cofe]

and a 9 stone ginger spotter under the influence.

great 'line'...

[Fiend]

Very nice.

[Adam Lincoln]

Dam that looks better than i remember! More mats needed though!

[Tris]

To the OP: like BenF said, you've already got all the information that you need. It was always my idea with NWB.com that it would complement the guidebook.

Thanks for the link - I should have said that unfortunately I don't actually own a copy of NWB, and was thinking I would be forced to buy it if I couldn't find any online info/topos for Porth Ysgo. However I'd rather not buy it just for one area, however good the guide may be

cheers

[Pantontino]

Tris, I can promise you that Porth Ysgo is not the only worthwhile bouldering venue in North Wales. If you bought the guide, which incidentally is a design classic, I'd wager that you would find yourself discovering all sorts of wonderful bouldering areas, many of which are climbable all year round.

And you'd probably spend the cost of said book on your share of the petrol to Porth Ysgo.

(Go on, tell me that I've swayed you, even if it is just a little...)

[Fiend]

Tris, I can promise you that Porth Ysgo is not the only worthwhile bouldering venue in North Wales.

*Snort*. Pantonius is right, you know....

[BenF]

Tris, I can promise you that Porth Ysgo is not the only worthwhile bouldering venue in North Wales.

Yup, despite what many outcomers may say, there is plenty of great bouldering in North Wales.  Plenty indeed.

the guide, which incidentally is a design classic

Far and away the best bouldering guide to North Wales produced this century.   

[Tris]

Tris, I can promise you that Porth Ysgo is not the only worthwhile bouldering venue in North Wales.

Yeah I know, but when I'm back in Wales I tend to do mountain multi-pitches or if it's too cold/wet head for the sea cliffs. Are there any other decent seaside bouldering venues in NW? (apart from Parisellas/LPT obviously).

PS congrats on the Gogarth guide - the Benllech section is great, hopefully it will get more traffic...

[Tris]

Tris, I can promise you that Porth Ysgo is not the only worthwhile bouldering venue in North Wales.

*Snort*. Pantonius is right, you know....

I may have been swayed....

Nice avatar BTW - classic album, 4 blond nuns...

[dave]

do you see muslims wanting to buy just a bit of the koran instead of the whole book? just by the damn guide.

[Tris]

do you see muslims wanting to buy just a bit of the koran instead of the whole book? just by the damn guide.

You mean like this:

http://www.alibris.co.uk/search/books/isbn/9781437323498

If I wanted to go bouldering at Brownstones in Bolton for example, would you tell me to buy the Rockfax or BMC guide or would you say 'nah just get the topo from the wetpaint website'?

[dave]

If I wanted to go bouldering at Brownstones in Bolton for example....

I'd tell you to kill yourself, or buy a fingerboard.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

[slackline]

Guide books aren't cheap, but they're not exactly extorionate either.  Given that a small investment in a guide book can potentially be used for years and years time and time again then the expense per trip/use becomes miniscule.

But then I do like my old guidebooks  

[JohnM]

Sacrilege!  Comparing Brownstones to Porth Ysgo.....tut tut!

[BenF]

do you see muslims wanting to buy just a bit of the koran instead of the whole book? just by the damn guide.

Or maybe this Dam Guide:  http://www.worldtravelguide.net/attraction/204/attraction_guide/North-America/Hoover-Dam.html

[Tris]

do you see muslims wanting to buy just a bit of the koran instead of the whole book? just by the damn guide.

Or maybe this Dam Guide:  http://www.worldtravelguide.net/attraction/204/attraction_guide/North-America/Hoover-Dam.html

lmao