[r-man]

Gardinrm and I cleaned up the bigger river boulder today - all the problems are very good, and worth checking out if you get a south easterly breeze, which seems to keep the midges away.
7B - sitstart the steep wall and arete, starting RH on the incut hold.
6B - sitstart the slanting ramp and climb up and left.
6C - sitstart the slanting ramp and climb up the right arete.

Nice vid Rob. Like you said, it's good to have a few easier ones. I think there will be around 20 problems in this little area when everything is cleaned up and the projects are climbed.

[account_inactive]

Here is a very short video of 2 new little problems at Cadshaw River blocks. Quite fun really.

[gardinrm]

I guess you didn't enjoy it Dylan.

[r-man]

Not surprising really. He prefers bananas.

[r-man]

I did a nice steep line recently. Only thing is, I am a bit worried that there is a large flake a little higher up the cliff of dubious stability. Perhaps it's fine, but lots of it is detached from the main wall. You certainly wouldn't want it falling on you, and I don't want to promote this area if there's a chance that can happen.

Is there anyone near Bacup (or keen for a decent fingery wall near Bacup) who'd like to help me inspect/remove the rock? I'm not too good at all that rope stuff. And I suspect you'd need to hammer in a stake to abseil off. Here's a vid of the problem, it's about 7B+ - there are also a couple of easier lines and a project coming straight out which will likely be harder.

[r-man]

Whilst checking details for the bouldering guidebook, I've exchanged a few emails with John Gaskins - it turns out that about 8 years ago he did a couple of problems that he never reported.

One of these is the prow at Lower Montcliffe - an impressive hghball LGP. He's called it Information Highway Revisited, and offered 7C+ as the grade. Fairly big news for Lancashire, just a surprise it wasn't harder!

In Lester Mill he also did the highball arete project in the upper bay - Laissez Faire Stare 7A.

And he's come up with a name for his 8B slab in Stanworth - Endless Nameless.

(There will be more about these in the guidebook - John took the time to do a short Q&A about his exploits in the area.)

[rginns]

Whilst checking details for the bouldering guidebook, I've exchanged a few emails with John Gaskins - it turns out that about 8 years ago he did a couple of problems that he never reported.

One of these is the prow at Lower Montcliffe - an impressive hghball LGP. He's called it Information Highway Revisited, and offered 7C+ as the grade. Fairly big news for Lancashire, just a surprise it wasn't harder!

whaaaaatt? Is this the famous wave prow thing in the main quarry??  We are not worthy Lord G!

How can you tease us with this, it's not fair!!!

[r-man]

Yep, that's the prow!

I don't think it took him long at all. I had a go a couple of months ago - big undercuts to a couple of hard moves on small crimpy holds (I think this is the crux, I couldn't do it), then it looks like it might be a bit easier once you get onto the slabbier section. Very nice line, and the landing is a bit slopey but not too bad with a few pads.

[Grubes]

How is the guide book coming along robin?

[rginns]

Yep, that's the prow!
I don't think it took him long at all. I had a go a couple of months ago - big undercuts to a couple of hard moves on small crimpy holds (I think this is the crux, I couldn't do it), then it looks like it might be a bit easier once you get onto the slabbier section. Very nice line, and the landing is a bit slopey but not too bad with a few pads.

Do you know if he taped it? Would be awesome to see that!
It looked impossible, and the landing's shit so great to see it's been done!

[r-man]

Do you know if he taped it? Would be awesome to see that!
It looked impossible, and the landing's shit so great to see it's been done!

Doubt he taped it, sadly. I don't think was a big deal for him. I know he top roped it to try the moves, then did it pretty quickly.

How is the guide book coming along robin?

Nearing the finish! Should be out early next year, and available to pre-order this week on lancashirebouldering.com

[Grubes]

nice give me a shout if you want any punter grades checking this weekend.
At a bit of a loose end and want to try some where new (which covers pretty much all of lancashire)

-edit- Just seen I am pictured in the sample pages too

[tomtom]

sample pages look great Robin - have you considered using a font other than Times for the text though? I always thing Times looks great on its own (on a blank page etc..) but gets a bit fussy when its used in boxes and on a page with lots of other info etc..?

[r-man]

nice give me a shout if you want any punter grades checking this weekend.
At a bit of a loose end and want to try some where new (which covers pretty much all of lancashire)

-edit- Just seen I am pictured in the sample pages too

I'll be in touch if the weather is good! Yes, I got some good shots of you and James at Cow's Mouth and Nick of Pendle.

sample pages look great Robin - have you considered using a font other than Times for the text though? I always thing Times looks great on its own (on a blank page etc..) but gets a bit fussy when its used in boxes and on a page with lots of other info etc..?

It's Minion Pro, but I made the sample pages some time ago and I've since changed the problem names to a sans-serif font (thanks for that tip Grimer!) which makes everything much easier to read.

[GCW]

I'll need to head back sometime once I've got all this damned running out of the way. 

You've been using that excuse for a year now...

Two years now.......

[GCW]

Two new problems on the Red Wall at Cadshaw. Great conditions today.

Firstly, I did a low level traverse from the arête of Brian Jacques rightwards to finish just right of Hawkeye at the obvious jug. Foot ledges were in today, I think it'd be very very hard without.

Secondly, a really fun dyno from the aforementioned jug to the jug ledge above. 6b+ or so, but it goes out to the jug making it a bit harder to catch.

[GCW]

Shit video.

[r-man]

Good to see you back on the FA's!

[GCW]

Plenty more to do.....

EDIT:  I mentioned names in the blog.  Rakkety Tam for the dyno, Outcast for the traverse.

[r-man]

Lots!

[GCW]

(Slightly) better video:

[r-man]

Hurray for quarried esoterica! Dyno looks satisfying. I see some chalk on Hawkeye, did you try it with the new beta?

By the way, I walked past Red Wall on Saturday morning. All bone dry. That intermediate arete hold on Outcast is great - I wonder if you could do a sitter using it for the right hand?

[GCW]

Briefly tried it, the foot is a bit high for me.

That arête pinch is nice.

[r-man]

You were going off it with right foot before though? Does left foot feel too awkward?

[GCW]

Yeah. Skin was thin though. I'll try again.