[clm]

Ha!  Ive had exactly the same experience on rodins requiem.  Bonkers problem.  maybe for the exceedingly lanky?  I got a tiny bit higher by doing a a long hard rock over and popping to the overlap but ending up on tippy toes with finger tips up against the overlap was not a terribly helpful position to end up in.  Must go back...

[r-man]

Yes, very frustrating. There are good holds there, but they all face the wrong way... Feels like some trick is needed, but I couldn't figure it out. Will have to go back, it doth intrigue me. Let me know if you suss the beta!

Nice work with the developing GCW - keen to hear how your highball project goes...

[GCW]

Once I get a mini digger and a sandblaster to clean it, I'll let you know

Never tried Rodin's, is the landing as bad as it appears?

[r-man]

I thought it was ok with a couple of pads, would be a bit sketchier falling from higher up, but the landing zone is flat and I don't think you'd fall sidewards down the hill. With a couple more pads and a spotter it would be perfect.

At Stronstrey, is there no possibility of an easier downclimb, rather than topping out on the loose bit? Also, try cleaning it on a wet day - the lichen should come off much more easily.

[clm]

Once I get a mini digger and a sandblaster to clean it, I'll let you know

Never tried Rodin's, is the landing as bad as it appears?

Landings alright. First tried it in pre pad days.

[GCW]

You want a medal, old man?

Re-did the traverse with Mr Beardy today.  More like 6b in the dry 

[GCW]

Had a bumble to Healey Nab today.  I did Barmfingers (2nd ascent?) using a really tenuous outside edge on the first move.  I failed on my little project, then had a little play on Grabadabadoo.

I had the idea of doing it without the arete, but ended up doing a cool eliminate.  Basically start as for Grabadabadoo (block on right still out) and make a big move to the fair crimp level with the Grabadabadoo pinch.  Tenuous right heel round the corner and slap the sloper on Grabadabadoo (no pinching!).  Then a painful pull to get a foot on the starting handhold, and slap the top.  If you like naming eliminates, it's The Stretch (try it and you'll see why) 7a+.

The left end is pretty clean at the moment, so anyone heading up there will have a few things to go at.  The right side needs a good scrub though.

[GCW]

Went to Wilton One yesterday for a brief visit.
Did the crimpy line left of Snakey B mentioned somewhere on UKB ages ago) which is a good problem and pretty independent.  Snakey B feels easy until the last move- is there some sneaky beta or do I just have to slap harder?
Also did a nice dynamic problem following the ramp feature to the sloper, then jump for the ledge- about 6c give or take 5 grades).  I can't find it mentioned anywhere, so I'd suggest a name of Baby Fae.

[r-man]

Good stuff at Healey Nab and Wilton. Looking forward to revisitng Healey Nab some day.

On Snakey B, the trick is to get stood up into the undercut and reach the finishing hold from this. Once you have got right up into the undercut (crux) the last move is static, and not hard.

[GCW]

Yes, I tried it that was with the same result.  I'll head back at some point.

And one day I'll get off my arse and update a topo.   

[andy_e]

this is the right thread this time. oops.

[r-man]

Had a bumble to Healey Nab today.  I did Barmfingers (2nd ascent?) using a really tenuous outside edge on the first move. 

No! No! No! 

I just watched your vid properly. You had your foot on the big sticky out sidewall. There's no way this is allowed! Tut tut. And more tutting.

 

[GCW]

I did that as the holds are pretty fragile, plus it's naturally where my foot goes so it was stupidly contrived to try to avoid it.

And, of course, Lancashire quarries don't contain eliminates, do they?

[GCW]

Andi, just noticed you avoid using the overlap which I assumed was the line and which makes the LH more eliminate and contrived.
I'll have a look next visit.

[andy popp]

I like this thread. It makes me feel better about some of the things I climb in Cheshire.

[r-man]

I did that as the holds are pretty fragile, plus it's naturally where my foot goes so it was stupidly contrived to try to avoid it.

And, of course, Lancashire quarries don't contain eliminates, do they?

It's a different piece of rock! No! no! no!

The holds are a bit fragile though. Maybe you could get some of Nik's super resin stuff and patch a few things up?

[rginns]

where exactly does Snakey B finish? Had a brief look but couldn't decide... the high jug looks too high

[GCW]

The same good edge I finish at for the LH variant.

[rginns]

The same good edge I finish at for the LH variant.

baby fae looks good, long last move though, could be an addition to the list...

[GCW]

Drop me a text when you're next heading down.

Calum- you did the RH finish to Snakey B, right?  Suggestions on grade before I commit to the mashing landing?

[clm]

Drop me a text when you're next heading down.

Calum- you did the RH finish to Snakey B, right?  Suggestions on grade before I commit to the mashing landing?

Sorry mate. Not got a clue. Watching that video is the first time ive seen anyone else climb there apart from taking jim on tour once. Im not sure if i climbed b or left hand or a combination or both? One things for certain. I did neither from a sitter. Id be keen for the quarries before the midges come out in force. I do remember a dodgy fall once straddling the rocks. Just make sure you snag it.

[GCW]

I was just looking back at this thread, and going by what R-Meister said.

You dragged Jim there?  Sadist 

[clm]

Right, looked at the old thread (back then thought there was just one possible line on that bit) and watched andi e's clip.  it looks a lot more familiar him doing it.  is there an intermediate sloper to snag with the left anywhere?  no matter.  still done neither from sitter anyway. it felt a bit daft sit starting at the bottom of a big crag.  Moral of story - need to go back.

[GCW]

is there an intermediate sloper to snag with the left anywhere? 

Not really, but I'm not sure exactly where you mean.
The RH finish would involve doing Snakey B via my sequence, but on matching the sidepull thing, boost feet high and slap up and right to the good ledge (above the bone mangling rocks).  I was under the impression you'd done that?  (although if it wasn't a sitter it won't count either)   

[GCW]

Went back at lunch. Due to skin issues I didn't really try Snakey B much, but fell off the last move using my sequence again.

I did the right hand version- same start to match the undercut/ sidepull thingy, then big stretch out right to a crimp and ledge. I found this pretty easy, felt about 6c/+ to me. But if you can't reach I can imagine it'd be in the 7s.

I had a dabble on (what I think is) Thulsa Doom and made good progress. The blocks are ok with a good stiff mat.

Back at work now, but I'll try to post a vid when I get home late tonight.