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Aims for 2009 (Read 68373 times)

Averageman

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#125 Re: Aims for 2009
February 12, 2009, 06:04:23 pm
and subscribe to rambler magazine if you're that sad....

You can get that free when you buy tickets to see 'Keane'
Keane, associated with Rambler magazine, do you think possibly, thats their target audience.

nik at work

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#126 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 02:34:14 pm
Right then campers, it's been six months, thats fifty percent or half the year gone. So how we doing? Half the list ticked or not? Line up your successes and excuses here. I'll go first.

1) Jess's Roof, Almscliff - This is a rollover from '08. NOT TRIED
2) Jerry's Traverse, Stanage - Another rollover.NOT TRIED
3) Keelhaul, Almscliff - Have worked this a bit in '08 one BIG move for me.ICED LIKE A REALLY NICE CAKE
4) Jasons Roof, Crookrise - Never even touched this but it has a reputation for aceness, I reserve the right to replace this problem when I realise it's way beyond me NOT TRIED
5) Marks Roof, Gardoms - Tried this in summer '07 and sweated off the last move, never been back. NOT TRIED
6) Something in Wales WENT TO THE CAVE AND GOT ON LOU FERINO AND ROCKATTROCITY BUT NO SUCCESS, YET
7) Shallow Grave RH, Trowbarrow - Tried this year and fell of the last move several times, find it very reachy. NOT TRIED
Cool Isla De Encata, Trowbarrow - God what am I thinking? Had a brief mess on this the other day and whilst it felt dirty hard it did feel vaguely possible. Obviously I'm totally dreaming here and I again reserve the right to replace this. NOT TRIED
9) Something at St Bees WENT AND DID SOME STUFF AND FAILED ON SOME OTHER STUFF
10) Something in Northumberland NOT TRIED

So two successes one failed attempt and a lot of not trying. Got a busy six months ahead I think...

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#127 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 02:45:54 pm
1. To get below 12.5 stone. Not tried
2. To get fit and strong. Failed

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#128 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 02:47:51 pm
0. Recover from debilitating elbow injury. - YES, it's just gradually improved over spring until now it's barely an issue, the occasional mild ache but it doesn't affect my climbing. Hurrah.

Then, carried over:

1. Climb remaining E2-4 routes in Lleyn section of North Wales Rock before spring. - NO, wasn't fit enough and got distracted with other stuff.
2. Climb abroad on either Scandinavian granite or German/Czech sandstone. - NO, unfortunately unlikely to get organised this year =(
3. Go on whatever bouldering / sport trips abroad are available. - NO, circumstances and fitness again, and now it's probably too warm for a bit.
4. Hang out with my mates more and do more climbing with them. - Yes, a bit, mostly local sport climbing.
5. Climb a few remaining inspirations at Nesscliffe, Baggy, a few esoteric odds and sods, and on grit. - Yes to Nesscliffe, which was ace, Yes to some Mid-Wales stuff, also ace, No to everything else so far. Still very keen but circumstances have prevented, need to get more focused this summer.

An extremely mixed bag so far. Really mostly pottering around, which is mildly pleasurable, but only rarely following deep and exciting inspirations. I need to summon more determination and action.

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#129 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 02:52:52 pm
1.  Buckstone Dyno- tried one day, should go next time (don't they always?)  Not been back to try it.
2.  Fight on Black (Widdop)- Got the psych back to try it now.  TICK
3.  Picnic Sarcastic +/- SDS-  Got close on a brief session years ago, didn't go back in 08  Brief try a while back that failed miserably
4.  West Side Story  Didn't try it in 08  Not been back to try it.
5.  Jerry's Arete (Bridestones)  Should be acheivable  Made progress, just waiting for cool weather.  Honest.
6.  Sloping Beauty (Earl)  Need to get back and try it again  Not been back to try it.
7.  Underhand (Almscliff)- Got the numbers, need to go and finish it off.  Not been back to try it.
8.  Beachball (Secret Garden)- Stupid, stupid, bastard problem.  TICK
9.  Clash of the Titans (St Bees)-  Still not been, aaaaargh.  Tried it after falling in a big hole, so not the best attempts
10.  Big Marine (Craig Y Longridge)-  Tried it once when wet.  Need to go back  Why do I find this soooo hard?
11.  Bust a finger and not be able to crimp for a few months  TICK

Can I change my remaining problems to things that are slopey, and font 6b?

T_B

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#130 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 03:11:42 pm
Back in January, my aims were:

E7 on-sight Yes, From a Distance, Pembs
The Groove F8a+ I don't think this is going to happen this year, as i've ended up focussing on the trad. If I go to France later this month, it might be a project for September.
Font 7c+ in Font Nope! Was hoping to try Misericorde in Feb. Did Berezina and L'Arrache Coeur, which I was pleased with.



rginns

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#131 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 03:48:08 pm
Good idea Nik, to have an update.
2 and a half months not climbing at the top end of the year has made me shit and weak, but then again these are all excuses... Not a single aim ticked so far, but I've added more good problems to the list (those in bold). Some limited progress though
The arete (Denham splash area)NOT TRIED
The arete (Denham Mohammed area)NOT TRIED
pickpocket direct (Denham) 1 hot sweaty grease-session - got to the little undercut/small pocket thing, felt ok. need to finish off
Low break traverse (Brownstones) tried this a few times, felt reasonable but find the start hard, need to get back on it
Satisfying sloper problem (Brownstones)
NOT TRIED
Hacker start (Wilton 1) cos it's close and looks good - NOT TRIED
Verdinand (Brownstones)NOT TRIED
Burnt Heather (Thorn) before it gets polished... shame it's such an arse to get up there NOT TRIED
Catfoot (Round Barn) awesome, although feels really high. need to get back on this NOT TRIED
Staffs Flyer (Roaches)something I've wanted to do for a while and never got round to NOT TRIED, rained off 3 sessions, boo!
Nexus dyno (Brownstones) erm, tried about 28 times, always a cm off - need to sort out timings...
Boopers (Brownstones) still not bloody topped out, although it's a only a matter of time! had one good session at this, can't move off past the break,
Pond Traverse (Brownstones) easy, but always get knackered, also the pond only gets dry for about 4 weeks a year... good progress on this, should be finished off before long if I can get the stamina up
Lancashire PotHot (Brownstones) Couldn't get off the floor
Elemental (Thorn) find this fine until the rockover... just can't nail it though NOT TRIED
Brian Jacques (Cadshaw) not tried it yet but looks awesome NOT TRIED
Groundhog standing start (Brownstones) ha ha yeah right

so in conclusion, pretty poor performance really. reassessment has meant recently adding a few more problems that are likely to be within range and Groundhog/Brian Jacques may well be dropped. Added a couple of easys to get the ball rolling. Looks like I'd better get on with it then... some fitness and a dose of focus should get a few of these ticked before long.

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#132 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 03:51:40 pm

- an 8A/V11 (either bloc or long problem - I ain't fussy for the first one!) NOPE (must have been up on myself when I wrote this, still feels a long way off)
- enjoy sport climbing in the UK - Hmmm got sucked into bouldering abd belaying at Kilnsey
- go on a sport climbing trip for the first time - traded up for a summer bouldering trip :)
- not go the Font - so far so good!
- be regimented with fingerboarding (i.e write down a schedule and goals and stick to it) YES! Thank you Beastmaker
- have fun in Bishop - It would be hard not to, looking forward to another trip back already.

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#133 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 04:03:42 pm
1 come back from Font without fucked elbows. Yes!!
2 Jocks Sitting            ERR NO
3 Monty pythons Sitting      no
4 Hitch Hikers from block     as above
5 Rose and unemployed Bus. Man    and again as above
6 Tidy up some of the 7a's I have started in Font and try carnage     no but did a new one
7 Get to Bowder Stone       no
8 Boulder in the Pass           yes... IT's Top
9 Do some more Peak limestone- miss bouldering on it!        not yet but the lime have been called!
10 Loose a couple of lbs more and do a 10 mile road race in sub 25 mins   26 mins so far

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#134 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 04:08:25 pm
Get down here and have some bouldering fun times Si. Malham too!


A few boulder problems;
Rockattrocity - no visits to the cave yet this year, but I think Lou Ferrino would be more my style anyway.
Jerry's roof - no visits to the pass either
Famous Grouse - fell of the top of this so many times
Brad Pitt - smashed it in the box
Full Power - not tried it yet
Bens Roof - had 2 sessions trying to get somewhere with it, done the moves but scarcely linking more than a few moves together


Boulder abroad somewhere other than Font. - Nope

Close the 2.5 CoC (Remember they are useless though). - Can I fuck, working reps on the 2 still.
Spend some time sport climbing and learn how to do it properly, perhaps climb 8a? - Going out tomorrow for the first time this year
Reduce alcohol consumption. -erm...
Increase cv exercise by cycling to work. - fucked cycling off but am walking a lot now I own a dog
Improve my portfolio (art not shares). - have yet to do any work outside office hours
Buy first house with The little drummer girl. - scary, but done.
Burn Matt Wrigley and Sharik off - Matt burned himself off and Sharik fled the country in fear of the burning offingness.


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#135 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 04:11:06 pm
10 Loose a couple of lbs more and do a 10 mile road race in sub 25 mins   26 mins so far

I'm highly impressed with that!

webbo

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#136 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 04:17:24 pm
i hope thats on a bike or somebodys in th wrong sport.

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#137 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 04:35:10 pm
Onsight some E5's in the mountains or seacliffs Not yet, but this will happen.. maybe Peak Lime and Grit though.
Boulder Font 7b - Done several 7a+'s so feel confident I'll do this by year end.. Thanks to the Beastmaker boys and oodles of psyche.
Lead a 7c Nearly - Should have one redpointed within a month or two the way things are going
Edale Skyline and a couple of the classic Lakes races - No - Got too psyched for climbing.
Get back to playing the guitar with more regularity - No. But rediscovered my enthusiasm for making bleeps and bangers. Watch this space
Get weight below 12 stone - Yes!. Dropped 3/4 stone since Chrimbo and now just hovering around 12
Drink less - Yes!. Dramatically cut down from nearly every night to barely a drop in the week

Had my best years climbing ever so far I think in terms of enjoyment and achievements.  Just loving it so much at the moment.

jordysi

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#138 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 05:02:05 pm
yes on my shiney new scott adict road bike... and that was on a windy day recon to take 30 seconds off that on a good night... will be trying again tomorrow...

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#139 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 05:15:12 pm
1) The Joker Waiting for winter
2) The Groove - Malham On the cards for autumn
3) Supercool - Still on cards for autumn
4) Urgent Action - Kilnsey Next on the list after The thumb
5) Finish off loose ends on the routes from this year. Done a few, not all. Will tidy up more later in year
6) Flash 7c+ Have flashed a few more 7c's, so still possible. May need trip to spain!
7) Climb an 8b still on course
8) Go to Albarricin possible weekend later in year
9) Iron Man Iced!
10) Caviar - Rubicon Sure this will go in good conditions

Richie Crouch

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#140 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 05:23:12 pm
1. Jerry's Roof (The pass) - Done
2. Lou Ferrino (cave) - Done
3. Trigger Cut (cave) - Done but am now struggling to repeat!  :-\
4. Jess's Roof (Almscliff) - Still not been - saving it till Winter
5. Fallen Idol (roche) - Got close twice this year, will be minging now till Autumn
6. Lizard King (The pass) - done!
7. Brass Monkeys (Stanage) - Not been back on it in 09, another for winter
8. Sparks (pantymwyn) - Done first session back there in a year :)
9. Vitruvian Man (Trowbarrow) - Done, amazing move
10. Pit of Hell (cave) - Had my first few goes back on it this year and felt a lot stronger on it now, will go soon with some effort I hope

Not the worst first half to 09, going to have to pull my finger out to get pit of hell boxed off and confident of getting the others done with little trouble. Have made some extra goals for the 2nd half of 09:

11. Halfway House - Have climbed into TC but powering out early, needs a lot of work (need P.E. and more strength)
12. Mr Fantastic - Climbed through to bus stop slap to edge but fail here, (need P.E. and more strength)
13. Lou Ferrino sans pocket - Have tried the moves last night and got them ok in minging conditions, look forward to redpointing this :)

Adam Lincoln

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#141 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 11:17:41 pm
Just realised the colour coding you guys used. Oops.

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#142 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 11:18:45 pm
 :rtfm: :spank:

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#143 Re: Aims for 2009
July 01, 2009, 11:34:38 pm
Get with the program, Lincoln  ::)

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#144 Re: Aims for 2009
July 02, 2009, 01:49:43 am
1/ Get my shoulder back to 100% Almost there

2/ Big trip to the Gramps to tick of some stuff in HMC TICK only managed Wimmelfriedhoff in the cave but was happy with that as its awesome

3/ Learn to drive Didn't even try......

Shoulder is mended now so I'm training properly and giving a real go to these new fangled hangboard methods. Got get a partial menisectomy on my knee but that shouldn't set me back for long.  In fact, it will force me to stick with the hangboard as I won't be able to do much else.

Stu Littlefair

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#145 Re: Aims for 2009
July 02, 2009, 02:59:45 am

I have only one aim for 2009: DON'T GET INJURED. So far, so good

If I achieve that then I want to follow in the path of the Mighty Messrs Haston & Bolger and tick 8c+, then if I achieve that I want to tick

1) The Groove, Malham.  Nailed it
2) Mecca Extension  Got quite close, then events, dear boy, events...
3) Unjustified. Not tried it yet

But not necessarily in that order. I'd take a font 8b tick as well if I could find one I could do. But mostly DON'T GET INJURED.

Although clearly the 8c+ and font 8b aren't happening this year, they might next year - if I DON'T GET INJURED...

Andy F

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#146 Re: Aims for 2009
July 02, 2009, 08:55:29 am
Conehead ticked  ;D
Grooved Arete Made most excellent progress, will go down this year
Overnite Sensation Been on, sacked off until a) it's colder and b) I'm stronger


Bouldering Made some progress, need to do lots more though

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#147 Re: Aims for 2009
July 02, 2009, 05:56:26 pm
Climbing aims:

Main one is to not get injured, as I was for the pretty much the last half of '08 - if so... - OK so far...
Boulder Font 7b - Nowhere near
Trad E5 - Nope
I'll shamelessly take Mr Popp's 'genuine reason to post in YYFY' - When I get Breakfast I will be!

Non climbing:

Avoid getting the chop in the round of redundancies that are currently going off at my work - Epic Fail
Get finances under control - See above
Get some core strength - See above - at least being made redundant meant I lived in The Works for a while
Run 20 miles a week - Getting there - running on lunchtimes at work, c. 12 miles a week
11k+ powerball - Back. Of. The. Net.

So, in 7 months I've only managed to rinse out the Powerball, and not a great deal else. On the plus side I bouldered on Peak Lime for the first time evar, that must go down as a result.



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#148 Re: Aims for 2009
July 04, 2009, 12:09:11 am
mmmmmmm.....

1. Embrace parenthood  TICK! Loving it. though see next...

2. Combine 1 with maintaining some sort of form.Hmmmm. Only been twice since the bab, don't seem to have lost too much, but really need to wait till font in Autumn to really tell.

3. Compete to my own satisfaction in an off road race. Not yet. Was due to do a short fell race at the end of last month, but opened my toe up rather badly whilst out yachting with the family (rah rah!)

4. Hue, Rocher du Cassepot. (but any 7c'll do I supppose) Thing is, see, there just isn't that much at Cassepot, and one has to persuade others to go too, something I have thus far not succeeded in.

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#149 Re: Aims for 2009
July 04, 2009, 12:41:00 am
Bouldering wise, i'm not that ambitious...

Climb a few more 7a's and hopefully another 7a+...

i.e Hitchhikers from the block.

Then while in the peak this coming winter, do stuff I wasn't strong/good enough for last year like trackside and the green traverse, which will both probably feel very very easy.

Also would like to do some more trad routes with my fellow experienced twice my age partner while in the lakes soon. But I am a bit of a wimp and cant get the hang of setting up a belay after leading something, idiot..  :wall:

 

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