[DavidM]

Hi all,

Looking for some beta going to Port Ysgo and climbing alone in a couple weeks. I have two full pads and a mini sit start pad for landing. I am aware that this is not ideal but looking for some recommendations on some problems in the 6C+-7a+ range with suitable or better landing that are ideally easier to find and not huge scrambles as i'm on holiday with the family. 

Any suggestions gratefully received.

[Johnny Brown]

Makes sure the tide isn't high, start at the right-hand end (facing the sea) and work left. Loads to go at, and reasonable landings.

[Duma]

I've been on my own with one and a half pads and was ok. Recall Incredible Shaking Man (SS) and Popcorn Party were both ace and fine on my own.

[DavidM]

That's encouraging thank you. Does it have to be low tide for those blocks and in general to climb there.?

[SA Chris]

Lower the Tide, more to do. I recall Higginson's Scar being OK too. You will probably meet other folk there.

[Duma]

Higginsons scar is ace but felt pretty high on my own. ISM I think needs mid or lower tide

[Stabbsy]

I've been on my own with one and a half pads and was ok. Recall Incredible Shaking Man (SS) and Popcorn Party were both ace and fine on my own.

Most of my trips have been on the same basis - agree on Popcorn Party and ISM (although only did the stand as the sit was wet). Also the stuff on the Ramp boulder - Unmarked Grave, Closer, etc. and Fast Cars. The stuff on Mynydd y Graig looks like it would be worth a look too.

[tomtom]

I've been on my own with one and a half pads and was ok. Recall Incredible Shaking Man (SS) and Popcorn Party were both ace and fine on my own.

Yes to both of these from my experience. PP like ISM is closer to the sea and needs lower tideds. Also to add:

Brain Spray (and variants on the bloc) are all high and often not touched by the sea - Jawbreaker (how is that only 6C) is also 1 or 2 pad friendly.

[SA Chris]

Higginsons scar is ace but felt pretty high on my own. ISM I think needs mid or lower tide

I had 1 medium spotter and wee pad, and it felt OK. Maybe spending time bouldering on the Aberdeenshire coast boosts confidence.

[Duma]

Nah, its cos you're tall, doesn't seem so high to you ;-)

[remus]

I'd echo what others have said, loads to go at even with limited pads. Worth taking a guide down as there's quite a lot to get stuck in to.

...Fast Cars.

This has been affected by rockfall (according to UKC) so isn't climbable any more.

[SA Chris]

Nah, its cos you're tall, doesn't seem so high to you ;-)

As Jimmy Cliff once sang, the bigger they are the harder they fall...

[Stabbsy]

...Fast Cars.

This has been affected by rockfall (according to UKC) so isn't climbable any more.

I’d guess it’s the landing rather than the boulder itself. I think you step in (or used to step in?) from a boulder to reach the first holds at a reasonable stretch.

[Anti]

...Fast Cars.

This has been affected by rockfall (according to UKC) so isn't climbable any more.

I’d guess it’s the landing rather than the boulder itself. I think you step in (or used to step in?) from a boulder to reach the first holds at a reasonable stretch.

I think it's the entire boulder has toppled over :-s

[PlainCroi$$ant]

Well worth a visit with two and half pads.

Echo previous posts plus a couple of others that should be fine with that set up:
Ble Mae Charlie
The sds for Truth and also Justice
Joystick
Incredible Shaking Man
Beach Boy Arete
Higginson's Scar
Popcorn Party
Jawbreaker
Made in Heaven if you go to the far end of the bay (best problem at Ysgo imo - it's high but the tricky bit is low down)

Fast Cars is definitely no more...

[DavidM]

Thanks all for great suggestions

[tomtom]

BTW - if there with family - walk down the steps to the beach/cove to the right (looking out to sea), deposit there (its a lovely beach) and scramble over the rocks around the corner to the bouldering

[DavidM]

Nice beta TomTom thank you

[DavidM]

Thanks everyone. Thought i'd ask if there are any other crags worth checking out whilst in the area on the peninsula. Within 15min drive maybe.

[SA Chris]

How loose are you interested in?

[dontfollowme]

Mynydd y Graig is worth a look.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/mynydd_y_graig-18064#overview