[dave]

bo quartiers aught to be good for the gent of the more modest stature. i know katz has done it, and raved about it.

[nik at work]

Jasper that is right at the top of the current list, along with the various variations on the same boulder. It does look ace.

(Is this a tallies suggestion just to lull me into a false sense of trust before you all suggest Rainbow Rocket? )

[T_B]

Nik, if your span is 5'8" or less don't bother with Alea Acta Est. I can't believe that this has been suggested as a non reachy problem.

Sorry, I didn't realise Nik was a total shortie.

[nik at work]

My span is probably dead on 5'8", though I believe the correct term is midget or dwarf rather than shortie. If I recall correctly shortie is Sheffield jive talk for girlfriend/wife, is that right Dave?

From what I remember T_B, and assuming you are who I'm assuming you are, you definitely fall into my "giant man" category.

[Jaspersharpe]

These look good and look like they fit the bill nik........

http://bleau.info/isatis/589.html

http://bleau.info/isatis/942.html

http://bleau.info/apremontouest/1714.html

You're right, if you class me as tall (which I'm not particularly) then T_B must be "giant" status to you.

[nik at work]

Good selection Jasper (6ft?, tall by any reasonable persons standards), will add them to the list.
Sitting Bull looks very cool.

Anyone know if/how reachy L'arrache Couer is at Isatis? As that also looks reet bo.

This list is getting quite long now, might need more than 2 weeks....

Anyone got any Rocher Greau knowledge? Is there any easy stuff for the wife?

[dave]

basicallt if you're tallish you can get a kneebar in on L'arrache Couer and reach the lip holds static. the height-defficient gent will have to pull hard to get the lip i recon.

[Paul B]

oh 3rd, paul we are putting together a big tick list for you, no time for fata, much more to go at 


is hotline still on?, conditions are mint and due to stay like this

Of course it is! My ticklist is long enough thank you very much, all I need to do now is shake my man flu.
Good easy 6's for Nat would be great if you can think of any.

[Somebody's Fool]

problem with fata morgana is you're in a lose-lose situation.

If you do the problem, no-one thinks its impressive and will say "well every man and his dog does that, 2-move a-techical pulling, typical brits-abroad tick, even my mate XYZ did this and he's shit just strong".

And if you go and try it but don't manage it, everyone thinks your shit cos you couldn't even do fata morgana.

Although Fata Morgana suffers badly from this lose-lose situation, at least it's not as bad as Conviction at Rumont. Lose-catastrophe might be more apt in this case.

[dave]

banks knows all about that one. luckly i survived with dignity intact by not even going to the crag. lucky escape.

[neil h]

Good selection Jasper (6ft?, tall by any reasonable persons standards), will add them to the list.
Sitting Bull looks very cool.

Anyone know if/how reachy L'arrache Couer is at Isatis? As that also looks reet bo.

This list is getting quite long now, might need more than 2 weeks....

Anyone got any Rocher Greau knowledge? Is there any easy stuff for the wife?

L arrache couer is bloody reachy, but ok if you are good at knee bars

Rocher greau is amazing,  routes are fantastic, there are a few easier things there, but depends how easy, there are loads of cool 6a/6c range but nothing really below, but you do have petie bois 500 meters up the road with yellow orange and blue and a black circuit

[neil h]

Alea Jacta Est? Really cool problem - big reach from a good undercut to a disappointing edge.



gash, complete shit, its a crappy deadpoint thats easy if your tall imposible if your short, but then again up there there is the manderin, cool 7c, and an amazing prow on the same block at the same grade

[Andy B]

banks knows all about that one. luckly i survived with dignity intact by not even going to the crag. lucky escape.

Yep. Monkeyboy and I suffered the catastrophy scenario. Don't tell dense though.


Re. Rocher Greau, specifically regarding the two problems you are interested in Nik:

Tigre et Dragon looks really good in the flesh, but quite highball. Toit du Greau isn't the best looking line, but it looks pretty doable and obvious, and is on my list for next time.

[Paul B]

Tigre et Dragon looks really good in the flesh, but quite highball. Toit du Greau isn't the best looking line, but it looks pretty doable and obvious, and is on my list for next time.

Highball and with a nasty pointy rock right nearby isn't it?

I thought Toit de Greau looked great, its right there as you walk in. It's VERY doable, i was finding the first move to be the hard one due to not being able to crimp in the u/cuts within the break.

[nik at work]

Thank you for all knowledge chaps, gents one and all.

Time to hit the board and refine the ticklist methinks...

[uptown]

Is C'Etait demain on the list Nik?

[Adam Lincoln]

For reference


Don't know if bleau.info images like being hot linked.

So here as well. http://bleau.info/images/coquibuswest/fatasatan.jpg

[nik at work]

Is C'Etait demain on the list Nik?

It wasn't, but it is now (assuming that was a recommendation)

[Paul B]

Personally I don't find it too inspiring to have to put a bouldering mat on a cheat stone to reach the starting holds from which the first move is the crux. It may be the first 8a in the forest but still...

[nik at work]

Is there a case for the defence Uptown or do I need to get my BIG RED PEN out?

[neil h]

Tigre et Dragon looks really good in the flesh, but quite highball. Toit du Greau isn't the best looking line, but it looks pretty doable and obvious, and is on my list for next time.

Highball and with a nasty pointy rock right nearby isn't it?

I thought Toit de Greau looked great, its right there as you walk in. It's VERY doable, i was finding the first move to be the hard one due to not being able to crimp in the u/cuts within the break.

Well if you fancy a day down there, then lets go, both those problems are on my list, I didnt think toit de greau is that bad, tried it a few years back and got in the crack but to weak to hold it, but i have good beta, also down there is that megalithe thing which does look truely amazing, then you have big dragon just up the road

[Paul B]

Well if you fancy a day down there, then lets go, both those problems are on my list, I didnt think toit de greau is that bad, tried it a few years back and got in the crack but to weak to hold it, but i have good beta, also down there is that megalithe thing which does look truely amazing, then you have big dragon just up the road

I have unfinished business with a few things down that way. Hopefully tomorrow i'll get time to jot down my 'to look at' list. I take it you have a copy of the outsider as things like Megalight and that thing keith tries (does) with Nib's look great.

Nik - monkeyboy will be along soon to sing its praises.

[Adam Lincoln]

Hey Nik - what about this.....

http://bleau.info/bouligny/854.html

Looks amazing.

Funny enough, video of it went up on MomentumVM today. Looks top draw.

[a dense loner]

funny about people slating fata. it's a good problem and a good line. so uncle who trained on a 45 degree board 4 times a wk for 5 years thought that a 45 degree 2 move problem was easy. who'd have thought it?

[a dense loner]

ps. nik don't bother with l'arrache couer. you won't reach