[Pantontino]

Not exactly earth shattering news, but interesting for cave acolytes:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=381

[Jim]

nice, hadn't realised that it wasn't repeated.
Just the link in from lou ferrino to do now

[Pantontino]

Just the link in from lou ferrino to do now

The line of the cave I would say, and it still awaits an ascent.

[Doylo]

nice one des-roy.8a though! easier than halfway etc etc. stroke my furry chin! i spose it is quite funny though.

[nodder]

No halfway just isn't 8a+ anymore, not with all the new beta on trigger cut, this (trigger cut) is now soft at 7c+, and you know it doylo, you invented the knee bar sequence and you can use this for the move into the undercut as well, plus you can use one instead of the heel hook.  With all the extra beta using the undercuts on the start bit this just isn't V12.  Bonnie is desperate if you struggle to lock the shothole crimp, seems steady if you can, two people done it two people say 8a, so far that makes the closest thing to a concensus.  Anyway you hardly ever see anyone on that bit of the cave, maybe when they are crawled all over we can find a kneebar up there too. 

[Doylo]

No halfway just isn't 8a+ anymore, not with all the new beta on trigger cut, this (trigger cut) is now soft at 7c+, and you know it doylo, you invented the knee bar sequence and you can use this for the move into the undercut as well, plus you can use one instead of the heel hook.  With all the extra beta using the undercuts on the start bit this just isn't V12.  Bonnie is desperate if you struggle to lock the shothole crimp, seems steady if you can, two people done it two people say 8a, so far that makes the closest thing to a concensus.  Anyway you hardly ever see anyone on that bit of the cave, maybe when they are crawled all over we can find a kneebar up there too. 

You done Trigger yet Dave? Disagree bout it being a soft 7c+, yes Halfway is only 8a if you can use the knee(s), only Tom Newman has done it with two kneebars (as far as i know). Shall we downgrade East Coker, Directors and Daisy from, cos of these kneebars? I d still say Halfway was a soft 8a+ originally. There may well be kneebars on Bonnie Clyde but part of the difficulty of these problems is having to ground them up, and they re bloody hard anyway. We all know Bonnie is 8a+ really, but i don t really care if it gets 8a, its out of my league. It would be good to get some sort of logic to welsh bouldering grades before the next guide though, if Bonnie truly is 8a i d say that has repercussions for a lot of other stuff.  Psyched to have a sesh when get home. Happy crimbo

[nodder]

Yep done trigger, congratulations you have just walked into my trap, i can now claim 8a+ for halfway (when i do it of course),  Hope you get some better weather and dont have to dig out too much snow.

[Doylo]

good work nodder,nice to get the bogey problems ticked! how many kneebars did you use then? this would be my new grading list for the cave then,with all beta taken into account.   pilgrimage 8b+,silk cut 8b (hard),east coker 8b.louis armstrong 8b,directors 8b (soft),RA-clyde 8b ,daisy from concrete 8a+ ,in heaven 8a+,bonnie 8a+, greenheart 8a+.in hell 8a+ (soft),in life 8a+ (soft),clyde 8a (hard),halfway  8a (hard),crucial 8a (hard),trigger 7c+,broken heart 7c+.this list is obviously just my opinion so no one spank me.

[nodder]

I recon that in hell and in life only get 8a with your traversing under the difficulties, agree with most otherwise apart from possiblly east coker on account that you have to piss crucial to do it but could be wrong

[Jim]

so no one spank me.

I bet thats the first time you've ever said that 

[Doylo]

i ll go with the in hell in life downgrades if you concede that pit of and cave life (once a hard 8a) are 7c+.this seems harsh to me.

[nodder]

Nope after playing on them both the other day i would say cave life as it was originally done is as hard as the new sequence on in life.  For me the move to the wobbly jug was hard on the original, on the new method of in life its a massive heel toe and easy reach.     

[Doylo]

we ll have to agree to disagree on that one then.for me old cave life start is a lot easier and a lot less pumpy than the new beta.its only 7 moves to the jug as opposed to 11 moves for the new method.i know a few cave dwellers who can do the old way but i doubt they could do the new way.for me in life and in hell are both soft 8a+ s.too pumpy for 8a.

[nodder]

No i refuse to agree, even to disagree.  It would leave my day at work a lot duller. Anyway what do you reckon to any problem that goes through the whole roof i.e In life, pilgrimage, east coker, left wall getting a french grade to distinguish them from part problems such as Lou ferrino, Clyde?  Would be complex but good, maybe?

[Doylo]

you argumentative bastard dave! yes french grades could be useful on the longer problems.are you sure that this isn t a ploy to get yourself a french 8c tick! get down LPT u lazy bugger!

[nodder]

 
Saw that one coming didnt you.
 

[c.j.d.]

Jesus, some people...