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Frankenjura - crag/route suggestions... (Read 2719 times)

Reprobate_Rob

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Frankenjura - crag/route suggestions...
August 06, 2007, 04:58:34 pm
Off to the Frankenjura on Friday.

Just wondering if anyone's got any suggestions for crags, routes (around the F6c - F7b mark) or pubs.

Staying at the Eichler place in Unterbach(?)

Cheers,

Rob

dobbin

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Go and do Gottner Gedweg at BaronSchlut. Think its only 7a+. Climbing like your life depends on it! I should have realised it was going to be terrifying when Mosely made it look hard and Siobhan backed off. But no, I thought I'd have a go. Hellfire. Elbows out at right angles to the rock, Mosely baying that there was a rest coming up, shitting my pants, right at the top of the crag, run out 100ft about an rp0 behind a hollow death flake, 20ft dynos between monos - it was amazing.

There might be some small embellishments in the above statement, but it was a great route. I was scared and but for Moselys false hope giving I would probably have backed off. Fantastic. Theres loads of good stuff to do there at that grade. Just take a guide and climb what looks fun.

have a good trip!

saltbeef

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no, i think that's a pretty accurate route description ben.
voelgen verboten at grunne holle is ace at 7cplus
andy harris did a list on cragx's website. we did most of thos and weren't disappointed by any, except the 7b on the list is horrid, it tweaked both mine and si's fingers. avoid.

tc

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#3 Re: Frankenjura - crag/route suggestions...
December 09, 2008, 12:16:01 pm
That list seems to have vanished. Anyone know where I might be able to find it?

slackline

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#4 Re: Frankenjura - crag/route suggestions...
December 09, 2008, 12:19:06 pm
That list seems to have vanished. Anyone know where I might be able to find it?

Look up an old version of the site at http://www.archive.org.

stelios_kos

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#5 Re: Frankenjura - crag/route suggestions...
December 09, 2008, 04:31:01 pm
 :oMost propably the weather will be crap this time of the year. Anyway I think you'd better buy the guidebook Franken 1&2   from www.gebro-verlag.de

 

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