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significant repeats (Read 4462784 times)

Ged

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#11625 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2024, 10:59:04 am
Nice to see DS still getting done after the peanut broke

Not that I've done it, but from my efforts I don't think it's wildly harder than 7C+ still.  It still works as a foothold, and other sequences available to avoid needing it as a crimp.  But then I didn't try it before, so maybe it was more like 7C before?

Duma

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#11626 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2024, 12:51:43 pm
It bloody wasn't!


Teaboy

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#11628 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2024, 01:37:11 pm
Crikey, he's a good climber.

teestub

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#11629 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2024, 02:12:53 pm
Quote
Objectively speaking, I can’t say that this is a “good” route; the rock is generally quite poor, the sequence is short, and it’s generally a lot of work for a small amount of climbing.

Interesting that this was motivating enough to risk going back to lead

Wellsy

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#11630 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2024, 02:35:32 pm
Pearson is the man. Love that guy.

yetix

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#11631 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2024, 03:16:03 pm
Sounds like bosi has done sleepwalker from his post on his broadcast channel?

"Somehow rain followed me to the desert 😂 So my plan to rest two days was cut short and I was only able to have a very quick 3rd session yesterday. However it was a very good session and I’ve now done all the moves on the sit 👀
.
So I’ve got some exciting news coming out soon 🎉 Warming up I repeated each stand move and they all felt super chill. So I got ready and went for a send go 🤫 (post soon) "

moose

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#11632 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2024, 03:23:14 pm
From his Insta:

First go on day 3 😁 so psyched to send this incredible boulder! Onto the sit 🔥
.
Grade wise I will talk more in either my broadcast or YouTube but personally I don’t think it’s V16/8C+ so I decided to take V15/8C for it.

James Malloch

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#11633 Re: significant repeats
January 21, 2024, 03:25:36 pm
Sounds like bosi has done sleepwalker from his post on his broadcast channel?

"Somehow rain followed me to the desert 😂 So my plan to rest two days was cut short and I was only able to have a very quick 3rd session yesterday. However it was a very good session and I’ve now done all the moves on the sit 👀
.
So I’ve got some exciting news coming out soon 🎉 Warming up I repeated each stand move and they all felt super chill. So I got ready and went for a send go 🤫 (post soon) "

What’s a broadcast channel?

spidermonkey09

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Ed booth

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#11635 Re: significant repeats
January 22, 2024, 04:23:49 pm
Quote
Objectively speaking, I can’t say that this is a “good” route; the rock is generally quite poor, the sequence is short, and it’s generally a lot of work for a small amount of climbing.

Interesting that this was motivating enough to risk going back to lead

Either it was super motivating or just not that hard/risky for him to need to have much motivation?

remus

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#11636 Re: significant repeats
February 08, 2024, 04:40:53 pm
Also, unrelated, Pete Whittaker's story suggests he's done Pure Now E9 at Millstone

Nice little vid of Pete's ascent is up on the wideboyz channel.


Ed booth

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#11637 Re: significant repeats
February 08, 2024, 05:45:09 pm
Raphael Foarau insta has photo of what looks like ondra tying in at Annot. Look forward to hear what he has been doing .
« Last Edit: February 08, 2024, 05:57:34 pm by Ed booth »

Fiend

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#11638 Re: significant repeats
February 08, 2024, 05:52:43 pm
Is Pure Now the worst E9 "line" on grit?? Looks like someone has been trying an independent start at least tho.

remus

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#11639 Re: significant repeats
February 08, 2024, 06:11:25 pm
Is Pure Now the worst E9 "line" on grit?? Looks like someone has been trying an independent start at least tho.

It's probably not that bad on it's own, but given it branches off a line as crisp and clear cut as Master's Edge it's never gonna compare well.

Tony

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#11640 Re: significant repeats
February 08, 2024, 06:25:45 pm
Is Pure Now the worst E9 "line" on grit??
Amongst them, I’d have thought.

Reckon remus’s kind reply is due to being a stooge or shill (or some other “gangsta” term Dong uses) so don’t believe him (I jest!).

Tom was totally open about this in his write up of the FA:
. Unfortunately an escapable climb

funky moves on friable rock.

 it's on the verge of crumbling.
...
A king line it ain't!

Rrev

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#11641 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2024, 02:28:50 pm
Also, unrelated, Pete Whittaker's story suggests he's done Pure Now E9 at Millstone

Nice little vid of Pete's ascent is up on the wideboyz channel.


It was a good try! What a style!

SA Chris

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#11642 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2024, 02:31:17 pm
According to IG, looks like Will Bosi has done ROTS.

remus

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#11643 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2024, 12:27:59 pm
Young french comp was Arthur le Bris has joined the pretty elite list of climbers who have flashed 8B+ by doing the dagger first go.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3qP0iINvQU/?igsh=MXR4NHZ2dG1mY3NwcQ==

yetix

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#11644 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2024, 12:31:48 pm

jwi

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#11645 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2024, 12:33:09 pm
Young french comp was Arthur le Bris has joined the pretty elite list of climbers who have flashed 8B+ by doing the dagger first go.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3qP0iINvQU/?igsh=MXR4NHZ2dG1mY3NwcQ==

Claims to be the first French national to flash an 8B+.

To sentences below claims that the problem is 8A+/B.

Quality cakeism

remus

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#11646 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2024, 12:45:19 pm
Isn't this considered 8B these days?

https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/switzerland/cresciano/sectors/dream-time/routes/the-dagger/

Impressive non the less!

Right you are! Thanks for the heads up, updated climbing history too.

remus

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#11647 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2024, 12:47:19 pm
Claims to be the first French national to flash an 8B+.

To sentences below claims that the problem is 8A+/B.

Quality cakeism

At least we know the first claim is true, as he's followed in that long french tradition of split grades.

Bradders

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#11648 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2024, 12:53:59 pm
Young french comp was Arthur le Bris has joined the pretty elite list of climbers who have flashed 8B+ by doing the dagger first go.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3qP0iINvQU/?igsh=MXR4NHZ2dG1mY3NwcQ==

Claims to be the first French national to flash an 8B+.

To sentences below claims that the problem is 8A+/B.

Quality cakeism

I took the "first French 8B+" claim to be a joke.

jwi

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#11649 Re: significant repeats
February 23, 2024, 01:34:18 pm
Young french comp was Arthur le Bris has joined the pretty elite list of climbers who have flashed 8B+ by doing the dagger first go.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3qP0iINvQU/?igsh=MXR4NHZ2dG1mY3NwcQ==

Claims to be the first French national to flash an 8B+.

To sentences below claims that the problem is 8A+/B.

Quality cakeism

I took the "first French 8B+" claim to be a joke.

Sure. But also non-quality trolling of the green tickmark etc.

 

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