[remus]

The Belgians keep being embarrassingly good at multi-pitch free climbing. Sebastien Berthe flashed Rayu in Picos de Europa. His partner Siebe Vanhee fell on the onsight of the hardest pitch, but did it second go. All other pitches onsight or flash by both climbers. Seb thinks the crux pitch is more like 8b+ than 8c for someone of his height (he is not particularly tall). Source: https://www.grimper.com/news-seb-berthe-siebe-vanhee-flashent-journee-rayu-8c-600m

I may be misreading Seb's Insta post, but I think they swung leads most of the way, while both freeing the crux.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwfe0gHtRw4/=

[Fultonius]

I don't think those two are mutually exclusive Remus - for multi-pitch people often quote it as all pitches "flashed/led by both parties", even if that means they were just seconding.

Seb flashed the crux after Siebe had tried to onsight it. Siebe then got it second go. All other pitches onsighted by leader, flashed by second.

[remus]

You're right, just the ever-confusing world of multi-pitch style rearing it's head again!

[remus]

The Belgians keep being embarrassingly good at multi-pitch free climbing. Sebastien Berthe flashed Rayu in Picos de Europa. His partner Siebe Vanhee fell on the onsight of the hardest pitch, but did it second go. All other pitches onsight or flash by both climbers. Seb thinks the crux pitch is more like 8b+ than 8c for someone of his height (he is not particularly tall). Source: https://www.grimper.com/news-seb-berthe-siebe-vanhee-flashent-journee-rayu-8c-600m

Next up in the 'belgians smashing all the hard multi pitch routes', Seb Berth has climbed Orbayu 8c on his first day on the route.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cwp45YvtZJB/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

[jwi]

Must be a bit embarrassing for anyone who's not Belgian. Freyr seems like a good school for multi pitch climbing!

Every day I am getting happier that Bethe did not flash my long term project.

[remus]

Gives a good measure of how Dawn Wall stacks up against some of the big euro stuff too (i.e. it's way, way harder).

[lukeyboy]

Gives a good measure of how Dawn Wall stacks up against some of the big euro stuff too (i.e. it's way, way harder).

That's no doubt true, though you can't ignore the fact that it's a very different style to euro limestone, which is what most good euro climbers are best and most experienced at.

[Paul B]

Obviously my experience is far far lower than the Dawn Wall but I've always found harder granite pitches (not cracks/chimneys) to be incredibly morpho especially in areas where the granite is the lower friction variety.

[Coops_13]

Katie Lamb, Box Therapy V16 

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cw0gZKwPj3c/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

[remus]

Katie Lamb, Box Therapy V16 

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cw0gZKwPj3c/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

First woman to climb 8C+, and she skipped 8C. Deserves it's own thread!

[Bradders]

Indeed!

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,33712.0.html

[jwi]

Matilda Söderlund has done the first repeat of what is likely the hardest route in Sweden, Niemisis [sic!], 9a, after something like 47 days of work over three years. Impressive commitment to the route as the route is found in northernmost Sweden, close to the village of Niemisel (hence the name), and from Stockholm it is probably cheaper and easier to travel to any popular crag close to a major European airport.

The route was bolted by a local climber and later first freed by the strong competition climber Hannes Puman over two trips to the crag. Hannes left the route ungraded and suggested (sorry Hannes) a really bland name. Matilda is referring to the route by the name that the equipper uses.

I'm the co-author of the only printed guidebook for this area. http://borrbult.blogspot.com/p/webshop.html

[remus]

Mega. Classic significant repeats material.

Out of interest, what was the name Hannes suggested?

[sherlock]

Mega. Classic significant repeats material.

Out of interest, what was the name Hannes suggested?

Apparently it was Nyorbaje 7b  which translates as 'beginner 7b'.
Thank fuck it was changed.

[MischaHY]

Leo Skinner repeating Paradise Found seems worth a mention? 8C.

[Bradders]

Michael Piccolruaz has done Alasha, after a bit of a seige I think.

[remus]

Mega, good to see Sharma's DWS lines getting some attention, Alasha in particular looks mint.

[remus]

Siarra Fabbri has climbed Compass North 8B+, her second at the grade after New Base Line.

[yetix]

Apparently Janja did new baseline 2nd try today having spent an hour on the moves a few days ago. I believe she's there for 5 days in total.

Source: a friend who's also trying NBL

[Fultonius]

Is NBL not the Keen Roof of Switzerland? Or was that when it was 8C?

[sirlockoff]

let's just say it has been done by climber(s) who have not done 8A+ / 8B before 

[jakk]

NBL was ironically put up as a "new base line" for 8C (as I've heard it) but almost immediately came down to 8B+.

Either way that thing is BRICK FUCKING HARD!!!

[Moo]

I've never fucked a brick but are we talking victorian engineering brick or sun baked mud ?

[remus]

let's just say it has been done by climber(s) who have not done 8A+ / 8B before 

I don't think that necessarily tells you much. It's also been done by plenty of people with a lot of experience at the grade (Fred Nicole, D woods, Jimmy Webb etc.) and seems pretty settled at 8B+.

I guess it might be a bit morpho though? If you've got fingers like lollipop sticks you can probably get more out of the crack.

[crimpinainteasy]

Is NBL not the Keen Roof of Switzerland? Or was that when it was 8C?

I get the impression that New Base Line is pretty morpho and much easier for people with small fingers who are great at crimping. I remember Sam Prior talking about how the problem felt desperate for him since he couldn't fit his fingers in any of the slots, so I wouldn't say it's necessarily soft for the grade.

I think it's same same but different to the big Island in a way, since the big Island seems way easier if you have monkey arms and are great on slopers.