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significant repeats (Read 4390209 times)

Fiend

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#11200 Re: significant repeats
August 09, 2023, 09:04:32 am
Nice find on the vid. He also nipped in for a quick second ascent of James Taylor's route Olwen E9 on Rhoscolyn.
Alex Riley posted it on Rock Climbing UK FB group, cite your sources Fiend etc etc.

T_B

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#11201 Re: significant repeats
August 09, 2023, 10:04:10 am
That’s mega. He looks pretty boxed, but hangs in there and pulls out ridiculous levels of power to grab the edge. I fell off years ago a move after the transition to the left crack. Can’t imagine how fit you’d have to be to hang in there at that point for so long. It’s basically the middle of the crux.

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#11202 Re: significant repeats
August 09, 2023, 10:43:52 am
Nice find on the vid. He also nipped in for a quick second ascent of James Taylor's route Olwen E9 on Rhoscolyn.

Funny thing about this; the news report on UKC says a few times he did it on Saturday but it wasn't, it was Sunday. I was there. Chris says hi etc.

SA Chris

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#11203 Re: significant repeats
August 11, 2023, 11:03:11 am
https://www.instagram.com/p/CvunoqXxRSS/?igshid=MTc4MmM1YmI2Ng==

Connor Herson's ticklist from first "international" climbing trip.

remus

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#11204 Re: significant repeats
August 15, 2023, 10:57:57 pm
Caro Ciavaldini has made the third ascent of Olwen E9, James Taylor's relatively new addition in angelsey.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cv-j9-lI7aj/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

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#11205 Re: significant repeats
August 17, 2023, 08:55:53 pm
As we probably all assumed James Pearson had a flash go as well….
https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-repeats-prisoners-of-the-sun-e10-and-olwen-e9/


remus

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#11206 Re: significant repeats
August 21, 2023, 12:31:10 pm
Where's the significant links thread gone...

Barrows linked belly full of nachos in to mecca in to the top of crucifixion at the tor. 9a.

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#11207 Re: significant repeats
August 21, 2023, 03:47:14 pm
Where's the significant links thread gone...

Barrows linked belly full of nachos in to mecca in to the top of crucifixion at the tor. 9a.

Nice. I heard that he was saying it would be 9a+

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#11208 Re: significant repeats
August 21, 2023, 07:34:18 pm
Darth Grader says 9a+ even without the finish up Crucifixion (what does that bit get grade wise?) and assuming the rest before Mecca is good. Flipping impressive anyway, nice one Alex.

stone

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#11209 Re: significant repeats
August 21, 2023, 09:44:02 pm
If the rest on the jug at the start of Mecca was good (even for a 9a+ climber) then surely Steve wouldn't have fallen on Mecca when he attempted the Boyband-into-Cruxifiction Tor Integrale omni-link? So DarthGrader input can't be harsher than this can it (and DarthGrader must be obeyed unswervingly or else surely!)
8B+
Medium rest
8b/8b+
Good rest
8a
=9a+ soft

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#11210 Re: significant repeats
August 22, 2023, 07:58:15 am
You might be thinking of the Kaabah finish Simon? I think that will be 9a+; this one I was expecting hard 9a but after doing it I think maybe mid 9a? But my understanding of grade boundaries definitely breaks down around here so really Will, Steve or Buster needs to get involved and tell me how hard it is!

My breakdown would be
8B/+
Medium
6C+
Good
8b+ (soft)
Good
8a/+
The rest at the jugs on Mecca is no hands and you can swap legs so you can recover a lot there (but I can definitely see how you could easily fall on Mecca anyway if you'd just traversed 50m to get there and were exhausted! In my experience upside down knees - or any kind of rest other than a ledge - really lose their magic above about 20 minutes of climbing as you just get knackered to the point where 5 min on the floor wouldnt help that much... Unless you're Seb Bouin or one of the Spanish wads in which case you're just getting warmed up at that point  :lol:)

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#11211 Re: significant repeats
August 22, 2023, 08:48:08 am
Knice one kneebarras!

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#11212 Re: significant repeats
August 22, 2023, 05:25:32 pm
Fucking good effort, Alex. Fingers seem to be doing ok?

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#11213 Re: significant repeats
August 23, 2023, 07:28:46 am
Effort Alex! Onto the converter-fat lip-mecca linkup?  :thumbsup:

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#11214 Re: significant repeats
August 23, 2023, 05:19:30 pm
Great Alex!

Seb Berthe has onsighted ‘Ajo crudo’, 8c in Cicera in Hermida. Berthe says that he's keen on the long routes Orbayu and Rayu in Picos as well. source: https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/seb-berthe-resuelve-ajo-crudo-8c-a-vista-y-se-fija-en-rayu-y-orbayu/

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#11215 Re: significant repeats
August 23, 2023, 08:29:45 pm
Thanks all, fingers doing pretty well though the Kaabah finish might put that to the test  :lol:

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#11216 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2023, 04:46:24 pm
Sam Blackwell had a good day at Hartland the other day - Paradise Lost (8C), Speed of Light (8B+), Combination (8B) and Shire Horse (8A+).

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#11217 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2023, 05:46:39 pm
Sams always having a good day  :lol:

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#11218 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2023, 07:41:43 pm

Wil

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#11219 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2023, 08:24:11 pm
 Without the high runner in the crack too  :blink:

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#11220 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2023, 09:18:34 pm
A little UKC stalking suggests Jim Pope flashed Final Round E8/9 at Dovedale yesterday.

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#11221 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2023, 09:30:51 pm
Thought he'd already done eye of the tiger, so not a flash.

remus

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#11222 Re: significant repeats
August 29, 2023, 02:11:01 pm
Thought he'd already done eye of the tiger, so not a flash.

Good spot, forgot he'd done Eye of the Tiger. Still, good effort doing it first go as I guess he hasn't been doing laps on eye of the Tiger.

SA Chris

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#11223 Re: significant repeats
August 29, 2023, 02:37:24 pm
Can't link, but in his IG he says he did EofT last spring.

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#11224 Re: significant repeats
August 30, 2023, 08:19:04 pm
The Belgians keep being embarrassingly good at multi-pitch free climbing. Sebastien Berthe flashed Rayu in Picos de Europa. His partner Siebe Vanhee fell on the onsight of the hardest pitch, but did it second go. All other pitches onsight or flash by both climbers. Seb thinks the crux pitch is more like 8b+ than 8c for someone of his height (he is not particularly tall). Source: https://www.grimper.com/news-seb-berthe-siebe-vanhee-flashent-journee-rayu-8c-600m

 

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