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significant repeats (Read 5021582 times)

Dingdong

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#11150 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2023, 08:05:20 am
I watched him working the move. He had to do a hard looking left hand slap up to the broken flake, upon hitting it he was fully spanned and had to cut loose on it. Looked pretty nails!

T_B

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#11151 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2023, 08:24:19 am
Apparently the flake is a bit more broken since Bransby's re-ascent, too. Not sure exactly what the gear situation is these days but can't imagine it's very confidence inspiring!

The last few photos I’ve seen of people leading it they have a really high side runner in Brook’s Crack. Much higher than where you pull out from the crack. So that would stop you decking from the rock over if the flake ripped. Fair enough!

El Mocho

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#11152 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2023, 11:02:53 am
Nice one Jacopo, not the grippyist of conditions recently...

The last few photos I’ve seen of people leading it they have a really high side runner in Brook’s Crack. Much higher than where you pull out from the crack. So that would stop you decking from the rock over if the flake ripped. Fair enough!

Yeah I used a higher side runner than where you pull out of the crack, I can't remember where exactly but I felt it would keep you off the deck (from the crux at least) if the flake did snap...

shark

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#11153 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2023, 05:42:40 pm
Nice one Jacopo, not the grippyist of conditions recently...

..on the other hand he probably didn’t have to contend with numbed out fingers at the top  ;)

abarro81

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#11154 Re: significant repeats
July 14, 2023, 09:07:42 am
There’s a hidden UKC tick of Somehow Super, Steve Mac’s direct on Love Amongst the Butterflies.

Just to follow up on this, I spoke to Steve at the cornice yesterday and he confirmed this finishes at the top of the crag, not the bolt with a couple of bail biners on about 3/4 of the way up. He couldn't recall whether it had it's own belay or shared one with the 8b to the left. As I understand it (from talking to Xav and where the chalk stops), Felix stopped at the bail biners so I think this may still be awaiting a second ascent ...

remus

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#11155 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2023, 07:38:34 am
Not content with flashing one 8B+ Vadim Timonov did Paul Robinson's problem Mirta 8B+ on his first go yesterday. The problem's at Topside in Capetown. This makes him part of a very short list of people who have flashed more than one 8B+ (Woods, Ondra, Bosi, Timonov).
« Last Edit: July 21, 2023, 07:44:00 am by remus »

remus

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#11156 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2023, 04:32:07 pm
Ed Morris has made the third ascent of Gresh's Olympiad 8b in Pembroke. His is the first DWS repeat as Steve Mac did it on trad gear at a suggested grade of E10.

Muenchener

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#11157 Re: significant repeats
July 23, 2023, 09:54:59 am
a very short list of people who have flashed more than one 8B+ (Woods, Ondra, Bosi, Timonov).

What's Ondra's second? I'm only seeing Jade on his 8a.nu log (sorry jwi!)

Ged

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#11158 Re: significant repeats
July 23, 2023, 10:49:49 am
Gecko assis?

remus

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#11159 Re: significant repeats
July 23, 2023, 11:09:08 am
Gecko assis?

Yeah Gecko assis. Ondra took 8B for it but consensus seems to be 8B+ (~80% of 8a.nu logs suggest 8B+, ~20% suggest 8B).

Bradders

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#11160 Re: significant repeats
July 24, 2023, 03:46:38 pm
Paige Claassen has done Legacy, V14/9a in Rocklands. Maybe a new record in terms of grade based difficulty post partum?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CvFR9PxtEqY/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

yetix

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#11161 Re: significant repeats
July 24, 2023, 04:59:26 pm
Bombadil repeat by Niki Ceria. Would have loved to hear thoughts on the grade, but didn't expect to hear anything as I know that's not how Niki roles.

Anyhow, what a boulder!

Duma

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#11163 Re: significant repeats
July 24, 2023, 05:05:50 pm
Thanks Duma. Yetix cite your sources next time! (Edit: okay, let off the hook there!)

Great stuff!

« Last Edit: July 24, 2023, 05:17:15 pm by Fiend »

yetix

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#11164 Re: significant repeats
July 24, 2023, 05:09:26 pm
I went to edit to add it but duma beat me to it

sherlock

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#11165 Re: significant repeats
July 24, 2023, 06:02:39 pm
Bombadil repeat by Niki Ceria. Would have loved to hear thoughts on the grade, but didn't expect to hear anything as I know that's not how Niki roles.

Anyhow, what a boulder!
:clap2:   :bow:

yetix

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SA Chris

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#11167 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2023, 02:37:32 pm
Bombadil repeat by Niki Ceria.

Is this recent, or from an earlier trip? All his other posts about things he has done in the UK are dated May, but this one has no date.

jwi

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#11168 Re: significant repeats
July 26, 2023, 07:29:52 pm
For the record. Seb Bouin has done Move Hard, his ... seventeenth? route 9b or harder.
 https://www.instagram.com/p/CvKlLXANpQn/

Yeah, there was a knee involved

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#11169 Re: significant repeats
July 26, 2023, 07:56:58 pm
Jonny Kydd has repeated World at War. The man's on quite some form! Just Ebbing The Flow and he's ticked the cave..?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CvKznb9NJmh/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

remus

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#11170 Re: significant repeats
July 26, 2023, 09:46:32 pm
Jonny Kydd has repeated World at War. The man's on quite some form! Just Ebbing The Flow and he's ticked the cave..?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CvKznb9NJmh/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

I think there's another hard on of James' called Ambition on the right hand side of the roof.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/biblins_cave-20666/ambition-578810

shark

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#11171 Re: significant repeats
July 26, 2023, 10:21:40 pm

I think there's another hard on of James'

 :look:

jakaitch

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#11172 Re: significant repeats
July 26, 2023, 10:36:59 pm

I think there's another hard on of James'

 :look:

Didn't clock Remus' typo at first. Was just typing he aught to get on that...

remus

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#11173 Re: significant repeats
July 27, 2023, 06:40:23 am
 :lol: That's my best typo in ages!

In other news, low key welsh wad Morus Sanderson did Indian Face on Tuesday. 9th ascent I think, and his third E9 this year.

https://climbing-history.org/climb/601/indian-face

remus

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#11174 Re: significant repeats
July 27, 2023, 07:26:00 am
And Billy Ridal has continued his good run of form in Rocklands with a flash of Guest List 8B.

Scratch that, only second go. What a punter  ::)

 

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