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significant repeats (Read 4236749 times)

remus

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#10700 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2022, 11:06:03 pm
Judging by his IG story it looks like Tim Blake nabbed the third ascent of Madame Allure, Pete Robin's rarely repeated 8B.

edshakey

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#10701 Re: significant repeats
August 04, 2022, 09:04:32 am
Seems so. Looks brilliant


Duma

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#10702 Re: significant repeats
August 07, 2022, 08:40:59 am
Florian Wientjes has flashed Amanda in rocklands

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cg2JsUzDbpP/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Bradders

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#10703 Re: significant repeats
August 07, 2022, 02:25:35 pm
Florian Wientjes has flashed Amanda in rocklands

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cg2JsUzDbpP/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Amandla...

10th person to flash 8B+?

teestub

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#10704 Re: significant repeats
August 07, 2022, 08:14:17 pm
Awesome one to flash such an amazing looking boulder.

Didn’t realise the number of 8B+ flashers had crept that high!

Bradders

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#10705 Re: significant repeats
August 07, 2022, 08:19:12 pm
Stealing Remus' work:

Daniel Woods- Entlinge
Adam Ondra - Gecko Assis
Adam Ondra - Jade
Jimmy Webb - The Globalist
Liam Vance - Sky (this is 8B though right? Jimmy Webb has also flashed it.)
Ned Feehally - Trust Issues
Jakob Schubert - Catalan Witness the Fitness
Tomoa Narasaki - Decided
Jakob Schubert - The Never Ending Story
Will Bosi - Charizard

So yeah 10th person if you count Liam Vance. 9th otherwise.

Duma

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#10706 Re: significant repeats
August 07, 2022, 08:44:27 pm
Assuming we exclude Sky:
10 th flash of an 8B+
8th person to flash 8B+

Kingy

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Liamhutch89

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#10708 Re: significant repeats
August 07, 2022, 10:12:41 pm
I was about to lay down my bets on who would be first to flash 8C but after a quick google search I learnt that Jakob flashed Witness the Fitness. Has the grade held on that one?

If so, place your bets for the first 8C+ flash!

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#10709 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2022, 06:14:18 am
Trust Issues is given 8B+/8B here:

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/south-africa/rocklands/route/1386765072

Isn't that based on the sole opinion of the one person who uses the crag.com?  ;)

8B+ on 8a.nu and whenever I've seen it mentioned.

I was about to lay down my bets on who would be first to flash 8C but after a quick google search I learnt that Jakob flashed Witness the Fitness. Has the grade held on that one?

If so, place your bets for the first 8C+ flash!

He flashed Catalan Witness the Fitness. Different problem  (with a really crap name) and 8B+ rather than 8C although originally given the latter.

Kingy

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#10710 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2022, 07:53:54 am
Trust Issues is given 8B+/8B here:

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/south-africa/rocklands/route/1386765072

Isn't that based on the sole opinion of the one person who uses the crag.com?  ;)

No, Paul Robinson's opinion as well, based on his recent repeat.

https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/south-africa/the-realm/sectors/unknown-sector-83e98/routes/trust-issues/

Regarding Amandla, there are a few mootings of 8B or 8B+/8B from recent repeats by Martin Mobraten and Vadim Timonov. Maybe this is due to other, easier methods being found?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CeyHO10DIKF/?hl=en
https://www.lacrux.com/en/bouldern/vadim-timonov-in-top-form-bouldered-the-finnish-line-8c-and-more/

remus

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#10711 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2022, 10:06:26 am
Seb Bouin has rounded off his trip to flatanger with a repeat of Adam Ondra's Change 9b+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cg_hGbCj8uj/

GazM

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#10712 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2022, 10:18:33 am
Mat Wright's much discussed route Live Fast Die Young got another repeat from Murdoch Jamieson the other day. Headpointed with the gear Robbie Phillips found.

36chambers

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#10713 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2022, 10:19:38 am
Trust Issues is given 8B+/8B here:
https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/south-africa/rocklands/route/1386765072

Isn't that based on the sole opinion of the one person who uses the crag.com?  ;)

8B+ on 8a.nu and whenever I've seen it mentioned.

I'm pretty sure it gets 8B/+ in the most recent guidebook, whatever's that worth.

jwi

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#10714 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2022, 11:31:19 am
Seb Bouin has repeated Change in Flatanger, in what must be pretty few days/attempts

remus

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#10715 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2022, 12:04:54 pm
Seb Bouin has rounded off his trip to flatanger with a repeat of Adam Ondra's Change 9b+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cg_hGbCj8uj/

Off the pace JWI  ;)

It is indeed a very quick ascent though, I think he said 8 tries in total for the first part and doesn't sound like the second part took him long either. Then ~3 days trying the full link? DNA seems pretty safe at 9c if change stays at 9b+.

Liamhutch89

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#10716 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2022, 12:27:22 pm
DNA seems pretty safe at 9c if change stays at 9b+.

You're only considering one direction!

Wellsy

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#10717 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2022, 12:29:02 pm
Seb Bouin seems to knock really long endurance type stuff off no problem

jwi

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#10718 Re: significant repeats
August 08, 2022, 12:46:10 pm
DNA seems pretty safe at 9c if change stays at 9b+.

You're only considering one direction!

Reported as "9b+ until further notice" in Grimper magazine 😂

remus

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#10719 Re: significant repeats
August 16, 2022, 01:41:37 pm
Mike Hart made the third (?) ascent of Pete Robin's Dark Energy 8c+ down at pigeon's cave on Saturday.

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#10720 Re: significant repeats
August 16, 2022, 03:44:11 pm
Good stuff, it was hardly crisp and fresh in that area then!! Although bone dry I expect....

https://youtu.be/aBdbUUzdvjg?t=2588
Footage here....it's quite big, and it's quite hard.

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#10721 Re: significant repeats
August 16, 2022, 07:26:36 pm
That’s what she said

remus

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#10722 Re: significant repeats
August 19, 2022, 04:28:05 pm
Interesting flatanger grade commentary from Seb Bouin.

Tldr: move 9b+, Nordic marathon 9b/+, change 9b/+.

Seems like Move is due an upgrade (ondra said 9b/+, though typically reported as 9b) further cementing his position as our lord and saviour.

https://www.instagram.com/p/ChcUKlOjaIp/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
« Last Edit: August 19, 2022, 04:33:33 pm by remus »

Duma

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#10723 Re: significant repeats
August 19, 2022, 04:38:37 pm
Nah, I think Seb just worked out where they stood relative to each other, then went for the option with most slashes...


His post does seem to imply that he think slash grades are actual grades, not just placeholders until consensus is established though, which is clearly balls.

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#10724 Re: significant repeats
August 19, 2022, 04:47:55 pm
In the hope of distracting slightly from the ensuing slash grade discussion, Madaleine Sorkin did a hard thing on the Diamond (not the one in Wales).

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web22c/newswire-sorkin-sends-dunn-westbay-direct-diamond-longs-peak

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108312588/full-dunn-westbay-aka-dunn-westbay-direct-or-the-direct-dunn-westbay

 

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