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significant repeats (Read 4234500 times)

Fiend

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#10650 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2022, 08:56:41 pm
Gotta be E13....

remus

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#10651 Re: significant repeats
June 20, 2022, 05:22:56 pm
Anna Hazlett has repeated The Walk of Life at Dyer's lookout.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CfB0OpID5tH/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

remus

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#10652 Re: significant repeats
June 20, 2022, 07:13:10 pm
Kieran Forrest has made the second ascent of Pump up the Jam, a Pete Robins 8c at Pigeons Cave.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CfCTVWQjGFA/

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#10653 Re: significant repeats
June 20, 2022, 07:43:34 pm
Sounds like he did it in a session? Or had he been on it previously? Seemed to make quick work of it either way.

remus

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#10654 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2022, 04:11:36 pm
Sounds like Pete Whittaker made the third ascent of Randall's 8B The Kraken at Hartland Quay yesterday. It's his first 8B if I'm counting correctly.

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#10655 Re: significant repeats
June 22, 2022, 01:16:14 pm
Conor Herson has repeated Empath on gear.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CerdpkSPGoL/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

First ascentionist Carlo Traversi  graded it 5.15 (9a+). It’s been repeated with the bolt protection  by Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Connor Herson and Ethan Pringle. The latter used crack gloves and suggested 5.14+.

Herson didn’t use gloves on either of his ascents.

The name Herson rang a bell, and I suddenly realised that his father must be Jim Herson, author of many fine trip-reports I read on rec.climbing some 25 years ago, and the first journeyman climber to free climb Salathe. I did a bit of googling and his trip reports are still available: http://www.jimherson.com/climbing/tr.html

The TRs are still incredibly inspiring!

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edshakey

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#10657 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2022, 08:44:22 pm
Those moves off the toe hook look absolutely desperate. His hardest boulder to date, by a slash grade?

Fiend

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#10658 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2022, 09:46:04 pm
Serious shin power!

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#10659 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2022, 10:12:22 pm
Paradise Found first repeat by Solomon Kemball

https://www.8a.nu/news/paradise-found-8c-by-solomon-kemball

EDIT: oops see it's in the other thread too. Nevermind.

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#10660 Re: significant repeats
July 05, 2022, 11:45:36 pm
Buster Martin has climbed Never Ending Story for his first 8B+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cfo_IwVjSc8/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

jwi

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#10661 Re: significant repeats
July 06, 2022, 07:54:17 pm
Anak Verhoeven has repeated Jungfraumarathon, 9a, in Gimmelwald, in three days.

https://fanatic-climbing.com/anak-verhoeven-repete-jungfraumarathon-9a-anak-verhoeven-repeats-jungfraumarathon-9a/

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#10662 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2022, 10:56:47 am
Seb Bouin has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Iron Curtain, 9b, in Flatanger, but thinks it is 9a+ with kneepads.
https://planetgrimpe.com/seb-bouin-repete-une-voie-extreme-dadam-ondra-a-flatanger/

Seb is not a fan of the idea of giving a route big grades for bad beta:
Quote
However, for me, a route should be graded for the easiest way. For example, in the case of beta, it often happens that you find easier sequences after the first few ascents. It is the same with the advantage offered by [new] equipment. Unfortunately, the evolution of the material is part of our sport, and I think we must evolve with it. I'm leaning more towards stick to the lowest possible rating. It's a bit the same story as with morpho routes: for some the route will feel harder than for others. I think that a line is defined by the most logical [method], and that we must give it the rating for the way that feels the  easiest.
(Translated from a reply to a comment here : https://www.instagram.com/p/Cf3ki-QjUJu/ )

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#10663 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2022, 11:42:03 am
“ Unfortunately, the evolution of the material is part of our sport, and I think we must evolve with it.”

That sums up it neatly in general but climbing historical test pieces in the way they were originally done is also something worth aspiring to.

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#10664 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2022, 12:36:01 pm
That sums up it neatly in general but climbing historical test pieces in the way they were originally done is also something worth aspiring to.

1938 route on the Eiger anyone? No...?

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#10665 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2022, 12:48:28 pm
That sums up it neatly in general but climbing historical test pieces in the way they were originally done is also something worth aspiring to.

1938 route on the Eiger anyone? No...?
Stephan Siegrist and Michal Pitelka did that!

https://youtu.be/knxL3pPf1Gs?t=1438

Which is a lot more inspiring and logical to me than to do The Dominator without heel hooks or whatever. (I am sure that just goes to show my personal biases)

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#10666 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2022, 01:09:10 pm
“ Unfortunately, the evolution of the material is part of our sport, and I think we must evolve with it.”

That sums up it neatly in general but climbing historical test pieces in the way they were originally done is also something worth aspiring to.

Im sure we've been here before, but is it really? Would you go and do Lord of the flies in shitty old soft shoes, heavy quick draws and no chalk?

andy moles

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#10667 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2022, 01:15:54 pm

Stephan Siegrist and Michal Pitelka did that!

https://youtu.be/knxL3pPf1Gs?t=1438

Which is a lot more inspiring and logical to me than to do The Dominator without heel hooks or whatever. (I am sure that just goes to show my personal biases)

Haha fair enough, as soon as I'd posted that I did think "I bet someone has done that actually". I bet they didn't deny themselves the benefits of modern weather forecasting!

It's a bit of a crap analogy anyway, just an absurdum of denying oneself the benefits of commonly available advantages in equipment.

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#10668 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2022, 01:19:43 pm
“ Unfortunately, the evolution of the material is part of our sport, and I think we must evolve with it.”

That sums up it neatly in general but climbing historical test pieces in the way they were originally done is also something worth aspiring to.

Im sure we've been here before, but is it really? Would you go and do Lord of the flies in shitty old soft shoes, heavy quick draws and no chalk?
Ron used chalk on the first ascent and EB’s were not that soft. He could have even been wearing Handvags by then and they stiff as a board..

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#10669 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2022, 01:30:04 pm
“ Unfortunately, the evolution of the material is part of our sport, and I think we must evolve with it.”

That sums up it neatly in general but climbing historical test pieces in the way they were originally done is also something worth aspiring to.

Im sure we've been here before, but is it really? Would you go and do Lord of the flies in shitty old soft shoes, heavy quick draws and no chalk?
Ron used chalk on the first ascent and EB’s were not that soft. He could have even been wearing Handvags by then and they stiff as a board..

Looks like EBs

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#10670 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2022, 01:51:01 pm
Yeah, EBs. But harnesses and hardware were terrible back then - the rack I climbed with throughout the 80s would look absolutely pitiful to a modern trad climber.

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#10671 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2022, 01:54:19 pm
Guys, duuuuuuh, you're only supposed to eliminate new tech when it involves strapping rubber to your knees. Everything else is fine, isn't that obvious?

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#10672 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2022, 03:48:01 pm
“ Unfortunately, the evolution of the material is part of our sport, and I think we must evolve with it.”

That sums up it neatly in general but climbing historical test pieces in the way they were originally done is also something worth aspiring to.

Im sure we've been here before, but is it really? Would you go and do Lord of the flies in shitty old soft shoes, heavy quick draws and no chalk?

Yeah if you can bash the old peg back in and abseil inspect.

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#10673 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2022, 08:34:57 am
Anak Verhoeven has repeated Jungfraumarathon, 9a, in Gimmelwald, in three days.

https://fanatic-climbing.com/anak-verhoeven-repete-jungfraumarathon-9a-anak-verhoeven-repeats-jungfraumarathon-9a/

And has just repeated a harder link up,
Inferno 9a/+, starting up the same route, finishing on a neighbouring 8c+
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CgDGkdQjQkm/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=


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#10674 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2022, 08:48:07 am
Sent Bouin has repeated Thor's Hammer pitch 2, 9a+."9c climber repeats 9a+, big deal!" I hear you cry, but some interesting chat about mega enduro links in to this pitch for some potentially very hard lines. Options are Nordic Plumber (8c), Thor's Hammer P1 (9a) or Move (9b/+).

 

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