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significant repeats (Read 4236238 times)

remus

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#10625 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2022, 09:19:26 pm
Robbie Phillips repeated Long Hope Direct.
Edit:On Hoy.

He climbed it with Alex Moore and sounds like they swapped leads then both lead the crux pitch (Alex doing it on Robbie's gear to save time), so a double send. I'm well impressed Alex went for the lead, would have been easy to call it a day and second it after doing all that lower section.

sherlock

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#10626 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2022, 09:28:52 pm
Cheers Remus, didn't catch those details.

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#10627 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2022, 09:39:45 pm
This seems pretty nuts, especially if you’ve read the accounts of Twight, House and Backes single push ascent in 2000:

🤯

Duncan campbell

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#10628 Re: significant repeats
May 27, 2022, 12:14:56 pm
Robbie Phillips repeated Long Hope Direct.
Edit:On Hoy.

He climbed it with Alex Moore and sounds like they swapped leads then both lead the crux pitch (Alex doing it on Robbie's gear to save time), so a double send. I'm well impressed Alex went for the lead, would have been easy to call it a day and second it after doing all that lower section.

Indeed or but probably a lot easier than doing the whole lower section again

Duma

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#10629 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2022, 08:29:39 pm
Roz Fruginet did Bat Route yesterday, her 3rd 8c.

...and flashed Aberration today for her first UK 8th grade flash

ian dunn

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#10630 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2022, 11:47:05 pm
Pete Dawson repeated Sabotage at Malham today 8c+ he said after the ascent.

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#10631 Re: significant repeats
May 30, 2022, 08:47:58 am
Pete Dawson repeated Sabotage at Malham today 8c+ he said after the ascent.

I'm not sure if it was mentioned here already but Pete also did Superman Sit 8B+ about 3 weeks back.

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#10632 Re: significant repeats
June 01, 2022, 07:34:52 pm
Sam Blackwell just did Bewilderness 8B+

remus

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#10633 Re: significant repeats
June 02, 2022, 01:36:11 pm
Sounds like Caff has put up a new E9 in Nant Perris Quarry he's calling Crac y Meistr (from Ray Woods insta story).

SA Chris

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#10634 Re: significant repeats
June 02, 2022, 01:55:02 pm
And his own now. Looks great

Adam Lincoln

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#10635 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2022, 12:49:05 pm
Josh Ibbo done rainman too

teestub

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#10636 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2022, 12:58:54 pm
Sounds like Caff has put up a new E9 in Nant Perris Quarry he's calling Crac y Meistr (from Ray Woods insta story).

Perhaps we need a ‘Notable FA’s’ thread to sit alongside this one for stuff that doesn’t quite deserve a new individual thread?

Awesome from Josh, must have been running out of conditions this side of summer?

Nike Air

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#10637 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2022, 01:15:16 pm
4th go of the day and the conditions to me seemed far from ideal!

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#10638 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2022, 02:13:58 pm
Sounds like Caff has put up a new E9 in Nant Perris Quarry he's calling Crac y Meistr (from Ray Woods insta story).

Perhaps we need a ‘Notable FA’s’ thread to sit alongside this one for stuff that doesn’t quite deserve a new individual thread?
:agree:

Bradders

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#10640 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2022, 06:16:11 pm


Sam on Bewilderness

teestub

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#10641 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2022, 07:01:43 pm
I see a Angie Scarth-Johnson has done Víctimas Pérez (9a) at Margalef https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/angie-scarth-johnson-repeats-victimas-perez-9a-at-margalef.html
For some reason this is in my mind as a really hard 9a, I think it might be because Ondra had a bit of a hard time on it!

remus

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#10642 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2022, 09:21:40 pm
4th go of the day and the conditions to me seemed far from ideal!

Fuck me that's a good effort. I had 2 dogs and a send burn on a bouldery route with good rests and crisp conditions today and feel worked (maybe why I'm not climbing 9b...)

Bradders

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#10643 Re: significant repeats
June 04, 2022, 07:14:38 am
Josh Ibbo done rainman too

Just a thought; Ondra was about 17 when he did his first 9b? Josh can't be much older now? Incredible for him.

Duma

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#10644 Re: significant repeats
June 04, 2022, 09:29:55 am
I see a Angie Scarth-Johnson has done Víctimas Pérez (9a) at Margalef https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/angie-scarth-johnson-repeats-victimas-perez-9a-at-margalef.html
For some reason this is in my mind as a really hard 9a, I think it might be because Ondra had a bit of a hard time on it!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CeW_LVxjqX1/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

To be clear, no implication, just both things popped up on my feed around the same time

Adam Lincoln

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#10645 Re: significant repeats
June 04, 2022, 09:34:51 am
I see a Angie Scarth-Johnson has done Víctimas Pérez (9a) at Margalef https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/angie-scarth-johnson-repeats-victimas-perez-9a-at-margalef.html
For some reason this is in my mind as a really hard 9a, I think it might be because Ondra had a bit of a hard time on it!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CeW_LVxjqX1/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

To be clear, no implication, just both things popped up on my feed around the same time

I posted in chuffing section about this before. Such a shame its happening.

duncan

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#10646 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2022, 07:23:10 am
Conor Herson has repeated Empath on gear.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CerdpkSPGoL/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

First ascentionist Carlo Traversi  graded it 5.15 (9a+). It’s been repeated with the bolt protection  by Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webb, Connor Herson and Ethan Pringle. The latter used crack gloves and suggested 5.14+.

Herson didn’t use gloves on either of his ascents.

remus

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#10647 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2022, 07:56:52 am
That's mega! Got to be one of the hardest pieces of trad climbing out there along with Tribe and Recovery Drink.

I think Nathaniel Coleman and Keenan Takahashi have audio climbed it (on bolts).

jwi

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#10648 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2022, 10:25:57 am
hear, hear

remus

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#10649 Re: significant repeats
June 12, 2022, 04:15:07 pm
That's mega! Got to be one of the hardest pieces of trad climbing out there along with Tribe and Recovery Drink.

I think Nathaniel Coleman and Keenan Takahashi have also climbed it (on bolts).

 

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