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significant repeats (Read 4235242 times)

Doylo

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#10600 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2022, 07:13:09 am
Mat Wright has climbed a hard trad route although he hasn't said what it is. Freddy Mead posted a picture of Mat at the bottom of what is likely The Groove with the caption "Well he's only gone and done it. What an utter madman. Watch this space..."

It's an old pic because of the Eb shoes in the background which I imagine Mat would never want to use again after dropping Eb. Mat told me about a year back that he did all the moves on The Groove, although allegedly what he just did was even better. We shall see.

Excited for the grand reveal…  :popcorn: :o

Fultonius

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#10601 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2022, 07:46:40 am

It's an old pic because of the Eb shoes in the background which I imagine Mat would never want to use again after dropping Eb.

So is Seb Bouin claiming big grades for bad shoes, or are EBs not that bad after all? 9c...

SA Chris

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#10602 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2022, 08:09:38 am
Excited for the grand reveal…  :popcorn: :o

We'll be right back after the commercial break....

Wellsy

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#10603 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2022, 10:39:55 am
Apparently he's done Lexicon

Duma

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CapitalistPunter

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#10605 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2022, 12:05:44 pm

It's an old pic because of the Eb shoes in the background which I imagine Mat would never want to use again after dropping Eb.

So is Seb Bouin claiming big grades for bad shoes, or are EBs not that bad after all? 9c...

Depends on the shoe really. The one Mat used called the Django has a very good toe box, but after about 3 weeks the rubber edge starts to peel off. I had the same issue. The heel is also wank.

Duncan campbell

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#10606 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2022, 12:16:44 pm
The rubber edge starts to peel off?? The edge? Do you mean it wears off? Or the sole peels off?

CapitalistPunter

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#10607 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2022, 12:26:51 pm
As in the sole actually peels off at the front

T_B

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#10608 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2022, 03:31:53 pm
Yup
https://www.instagram.com/p/CdxjfHBDBZF/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Good to see he’s “served his trad apprenticeship” over the past… what, 5 months?

Fair play!

Duma

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#10609 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2022, 08:54:10 pm
Roz Fruginet did Bat Route yesterday, her 3rd 8c.

Will Hunt

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#10610 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2022, 09:21:57 pm
Wow. We were upstairs and saw her get to Victor's Ledge but assumed it couldn't be a redpoint as there was so little fanfare.

Adam Lincoln

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#10611 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2022, 09:46:01 pm
Roz Fruginet did Bat Route yesterday, her 3rd 8c.

Shortly followed by Tom Newberry her partner

shark

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#10612 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2022, 11:41:06 pm
Roz Fruginet did Bat Route yesterday, her 3rd 8c.

Shortly followed by Tom Newberry her partner

Not often it gets seconded

Duma

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#10613 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2022, 01:57:07 am
Roz Fruginet did Bat Route yesterday, her 3rd 8c.
unsurprisingly, I've spelt her name wrong:
*Frugtniet

Adam Lincoln

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#10614 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2022, 08:33:34 am
Roz Fruginet did Bat Route yesterday, her 3rd 8c.

Shortly followed by Tom Newberry her partner

Not often it gets seconded

 :lol: :lol:

Fultonius

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#10615 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2022, 09:16:17 am
Roz Fruginet did Bat Route yesterday, her 3rd 8c.
unsurprisingly, I've spelt her name wrong:
*Frugtniet

I always think of "NoFruit" when I see her name (Roughly how it would be spelt in Dutch)....  (if Ros/Tom are reading this  :wave: we were in the Margalef rifugio in November when you were there. I never did get back on Magic Festival...)

shark

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crzylgs

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#10617 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2022, 02:55:13 pm
Eder on Rainman:

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/eder-lomba-talks-about-his-climbing-and-rainman-ascent/


Regarding if he had done much cardio:

''Running is for cowards, if I’m late for the train, I’ll miss the train. Hahaha!''

My favourite quote from that article!

Fiend

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#10618 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2022, 03:06:20 pm
Bet his upper body fitness is world class.

Teaboy

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#10619 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2022, 03:41:15 pm
Unfortunately he doesn't really address the question about what he'd done before, does anyone know? He implies that the Rainshadow and Batshadow where the two hardest routes he'd ever done (9a and 8c+?) but also that 8a+ OS was reasonable proposition

Fiend

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#10620 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2022, 03:47:19 pm
Grade pyramid like spidermonkey's "pencil dick thin" one!

gme

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#10621 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2022, 04:01:26 pm
Unfortunately he doesn't really address the question about what he'd done before, does anyone know? He implies that the Rainshadow and Batshadow where the two hardest routes he'd ever done (9a and 8c+?) but also that 8a+ OS was reasonable proposition

Rainshadow 9a and Batman 9a/+. Only took 10 days o the latter so i can see how he thinks this is up a full notch.

Teaboy

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#10622 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2022, 04:25:34 pm
Arghh, got me Batmans and me Batshadows mixed up! 
 :rtfm: :spank: etc, etc

nic mullin

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sherlock

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#10624 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2022, 09:12:19 pm
 Robbie Phillips repeated Long Hope Direct.
Edit:On Hoy.

 

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