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significant repeats (Read 4291592 times)

remus

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#10575 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 11:16:11 am
Ondra also got hands off at that second knee bar I think?

He sure did.

https://youtu.be/TkdGK0d8iOk?t=274

Fiend

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#10576 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 11:21:41 am
Should have shown 1:02 - 2:22 and 3:53 - 5:35 in extra slo-mo for the added vibe. Although no doubt Barrows will be watching those bits on repeat anyway  :2thumbsup:

Good clear footage of the actual climbing, and great effort Eder.

Danny

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#10577 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 11:23:09 am
Makes me chuckle that McClure’s been saying in interviews for 20 years his strength is being an engineer/ working out weak mans beta/ refining every body position then this happens on his hardest route.

100%. Also remember a photo of him on Hubble looking anything but weak. He didn't knee cheat that either (though I don't think the fancy pads even existed at the time).

Irrespective of whether the new knees reduce the grade, that footage is truly amazing. Ondra levels of cadence and efficiency of movement.

abarro81

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#10578 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 11:37:38 am
though I don't think the fancy pads even existed at the time

DG had already been on Hubble with pads by the time Steve did it IIRC. They were just harder to get hold of (and less advanced) back then..

Great footage!

Adam Lincoln

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#10579 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 11:39:05 am
though I don't think the fancy pads even existed at the time

DG had already been on Hubble with pads by the time Steve did it IIRC. They were just harder to get hold of (and less advanced) back then..

Great footage!

Certainly not like now when loads of people have a whole quiver of pads!

abarro81

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#10580 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 11:41:39 am
Yeah, I think even the aficionados probably only had 1 pair back then!

grimer

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#10581 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 11:44:26 am
There was a video of Sean McColl trying Hubble with a kneepad (didn't manage it). In an interview with Sean and Ben, i remember Ben would barely look in Sean's direction - because of using a kneepad I presumed. After seeing that there was no way Steve could use one.

shark

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#10582 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 11:52:52 am
There was a video of Sean McColl trying Hubble with a kneepad (didn't manage it). In an interview with Sean and Ben, i remember Ben would barely look in Sean's direction - because of using a kneepad I presumed. After seeing that there was no way Steve could use one.

Part of a Mammut? series of films called repeating the classics. So much for the history. Not only did he fail to repeat it he blamed having the wrong type of kneepad. Classy

teestub

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#10583 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 12:34:32 pm
Steve did experiment with that kneebar rest but couldn’t get it to work

Probably tricky wearing a pad over those baggy 3/4 length efforts!

Doylo

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#10584 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 04:54:32 pm
Steve did experiment with that kneebar rest but couldn’t get it to work

Should have tried his autobiography under the pad. Also the modern knee wizards practice and train them like any other skill, so they may not work straight away but they keep at it . May be wrong  but I imagine he’s not a fan of kneepads on a long hard route . He can’t even be arsed doing his shoelaces up usually .

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#10585 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 07:19:42 pm
Special to have continuous uncut footage like that and see the emotion at the top.

Well done Marsha capturing it.

Totally agree. Rare to get that.

Doylo

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#10586 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 09:39:59 pm
Looking forward to Steve’s ‘pretending to be happy’ post.

SA Chris

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#10587 Re: significant repeats
May 16, 2022, 09:49:53 pm
Special to have continuous uncut footage like that and see the emotion at the top.

Well done Marsha capturing it.

She seems to be on point right now. Skills.

Franco

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#10588 Re: significant repeats
May 17, 2022, 08:03:08 am
That's pretty amazing footage. It's strange that you can learn so much about a person from just watching a video of them climbing, mostly from behind. I've never him, but you can tell just from this video that he's a really nice guy. Class effort.

spidermonkey09

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#10589 Re: significant repeats
May 17, 2022, 08:19:07 am
Special to have continuous uncut footage like that and see the emotion at the top.

Well done Marsha capturing it.

Totally agree. Rare to get that.

Definitely worth acknowledging the many, many days Marsha has put in behind the camera filming both Eder and Josh the last few years. She won't be done yet either ; amazing commitment!

SA Chris

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#10590 Re: significant repeats
May 17, 2022, 08:23:45 am
Got round to watching it, impressive footage. precise climbing; I noted he only put his food slightly wrong once and rarely repositions on holds.

Wellsy

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#10591 Re: significant repeats
May 17, 2022, 08:36:59 am
Yeah it's genuinely beautiful to watch

Bradders

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#10592 Re: significant repeats
May 17, 2022, 08:38:01 am
Special to have continuous uncut footage like that and see the emotion at the top.

Well done Marsha capturing it.

Totally agree. Rare to get that.

Definitely worth acknowledging the many, many days Marsha has put in behind the camera filming both Eder and Josh the last few years. She won't be done yet either ; amazing commitment!

Often thought the same about Sam Lawson, we're very lucky to have people like them who are so keen to film these things.

El Mocho

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#10593 Re: significant repeats
May 17, 2022, 09:02:29 am
Yeah nice footage and congrats to Eder, hopefully Josh will get success as well or at least continue to enjoy trying it...

Really smooth controlled climbing, I liked how he dropped his knee pads with no care where they might land - I'd have been worried about the river. The whole brush scene at 12.20 has left me a little undecided about it all. Can't decide if he is a complete amateur for carrying it all that way up the route or a complete wad for ditching it at the end. Either way reminded me of cyclists ditching wrappers, empty bidons etc in the run in to the finish... marginal gains.

teestub

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#10594 Re: significant repeats
May 17, 2022, 01:56:37 pm
Anyone notice that there’s something taped to the wall at 0:50 in the vid? Wonder what it is: a positive affirmation, a koan, a beta reminder?!

SA Chris

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#10595 Re: significant repeats
May 17, 2022, 02:38:19 pm
Something used commonly for seeping rock?

submaximal gains

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#10596 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2022, 08:45:52 am
Found a way to compare Eder's ascents of Rainshadow and Rainman. Interestingly he seems like his beta and speed on the lower section (raindogs and the roof) haven't changed in the 14 months between the ascents.

https://viewsync.net/watch?v=freZNzGm0jA&t=18&v=tAeVbsv0mgc&t=5&mode=solo

36chambers

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#10597 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2022, 09:36:51 am
Found a way to compare Eder's ascents of Rainshadow and Rainman. Interestingly he seems like his beta and speed on the lower section (raindogs and the roof) haven't changed in the 14 months between the ascents.

https://viewsync.net/watch?v=freZNzGm0jA&t=18&v=tAeVbsv0mgc&t=5&mode=solo

It looks like the post-roof kneebar on Rainman would be in for Rainshadow then?

Also is that the huge rest of Bat Route to the right of said kneebar, anyone know how hard it would be to traverse into that? :worms:

Nails

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#10598 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2022, 05:02:27 pm
Filip Babicz repeats E9 Appointment with Death rope-solo https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/filip-babicz-repeats-e9-appointment-with-death-rope-solo-at-wimberry.html

Interesting method of self-belaying

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#10599 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2022, 03:29:15 am
Mat Wright has climbed a hard trad route although he hasn't said what it is. Freddy Mead posted a picture of Mat at the bottom of what is likely The Groove with the caption "Well he's only gone and done it. What an utter madman. Watch this space..."

It's an old pic because of the Eb shoes in the background which I imagine Mat would never want to use again after dropping Eb. Mat told me about a year back that he did all the moves on The Groove, although allegedly what he just did was even better. We shall see.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2022, 03:35:28 am by CapitalistPunter »

 

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