[Kingy]

Equilibrium done in 2000. Is that 8b as well? And is a touch bold.

Equilibrium is apparently 8b+ with deckout potential

[shark]

TBF I think Mat's post says it was the hardest trad route in Scotland in 2001, not the UK. I think he is probably right.

Look again...

Says:

“almost certainly one of the hardest of its style in the uk at that time”

Did he edit it after Barrows piled in?

[Kingy]

I think the post has now been edited to say 'one of' rather than 'the hardest' in the UK.

Somebody really needs to do a list covering the history of the hardest UK trad routes. I might have a go myself.

[edshakey]

Somebody really needs to do a list covering the history of the hardest UK trad routes. I might have a go myself.

Maybe you could host it somewhere, I reckon climbing-history.org sounds like a good url

[Kingy]

Just had a look online and it seems as though there is already a list of sorts on here:

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/united-kingdom/routes/assert/is-not-project+is-trad-or-greenpoint/?sortby=grade,desc

Bit clunky to use but it can be seen when each route was first done by E grade. Just seen that the Big Issue E9 6c was done in 1996.

I'm more interested in sport climbs to be honest!

[remus]

Somebody really needs to do a list covering the history of the hardest UK trad routes. I might have a go myself.

Should be fairly easy to shuffle this https://climbing-history.org/list/6/strong-british-male-trad-climbers around to get something that's more lime a timeline of ascents of E9 and harder.

[Kingy]

Cracking! 

[Bradders]

Luke Dawson joined the 9a club today with an ascent of Rainman.

Absolutely cruised it!

[remus]

Somebody really needs to do a list covering the history of the hardest UK trad routes. I might have a go myself.

Maybe you could host it somewhere, I reckon climbing-history.org sounds like a good url

https://climbing-history.org/list/12/timeline-of-hard-trad-ascents-by-british-people

There's quite a few dates that are approx or missing entirely, any knowledge about when things were done much appreciated.

As a little clarification, the list is hard trad ascents done by brits rather than hard trad in the UK just because I don't currently have good data about where routes are. There's a lot of crossover though.

[MischaHY]

Moritz Winkler has apparently flashed the Markus Bock 8c+ 'Pain makes me stronger, every day'.

If I'm not mistaken this puts him into a very elite group?

[Wood FT]

Definitely in the Frankenjura!

[jwi]

Moritz Winkler has apparently flashed the Markus Bock 8c+ 'Pain makes me stronger, every day'.

If I'm not mistaken this puts him into a very elite group?

AFAIK only five climbers (Usobiaga, Puigblanque, Midtbø, Megos and Ondra) have onsighted 8c+. Apart from those only two have flashed 8c+ (Halenke and Schubert).

[remus]

French climber Nolwen Berthier has joined the very select club of women who have climbed 9a+ with her ascent of Super Crackinette at Saint Leger yesterday. She skipped 9a along the way too!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CciVNdMjTvx/

But how many women have climbed 9a+ or harder nobody asked, well I'll tell you anyway! https://climbing-history.org/list/13/hard-sport-ascents-by-women

[BD]

French climber Nolwen Berthier has joined the very select club of women who have climbed 9a+ with her ascent of Super Crackinette at Saint Leger yesterday. She skipped 9a along the way too!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CciVNdMjTvx/

But how many women have climbed 9a+ or harder nobody asked, well I'll tell you anyway! https://climbing-history.org/list/13/hard-sport-ascents-by-women

Anak Verhoeven seems to be missing from your list and has done at least 2 9a+'s.

[remus]

Good spot, updated. Thanks!

[Climbergirl69]

French climber Nolwen Berthier has joined the very select club of women who have climbed 9a+ with her ascent of Super Crackinette at Saint Leger yesterday. She skipped 9a along the way too!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CciVNdMjTvx/

But how many women have climbed 9a+ or harder nobody asked, well I'll tell you anyway! https://climbing-history.org/list/13/hard-sport-ascents-by-women

Margo Hayes date of Papichulo send should be down as 2019 not 2015

[remus]

Good spot, thanks for the correction

[remus]

Jacopo Larcher has added a pretty sweet looking new line to Caddarese that he's called Jeune et Con. Only piece of gear is a skyhook at below half height. No grade offered but Im guessing it's not a walk in the park.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CcoFX16MRn1/

[Duma]

French climber Nolwen Berthier has joined the very select club of women who have climbed 9a+ with her ascent of Super Crackinette at Saint Leger yesterday. She skipped 9a along the way too!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CciVNdMjTvx/

But how many women have climbed 9a+ or harder nobody asked, well I'll tell you anyway! https://climbing-history.org/list/13/hard-sport-ascents-by-women

Anak Verhoeven seems to be missing from your list and has done at least 2 9a+'s.

Ashima did Open Your Mind Direct to the first LO, which is 9a. think there was some confusion at the time...


Anak has also done Joe Mama - and at least one other link up on that wall that she suggested at 9a/+? Surely should be mentioned that Sweet Neuf was a FA too?

[remus]

Seems like Ashima took 9a+ for Open Your Mind Direct when she did it due to a broken hold bumping the grade up https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2015/03/open_your_mind_direct_9a+_by_ashima_shiraishi-69590 I get the impression it's settled more around 9a/+ now, tohugh doesn't seem to have had many ascents since Ashima's.

I've added Anak's ascent of Joe Mama. Her ascent of Sweet Neuf is recorded as an FA in the database, it just doesn't show up with the way the list is formatted.

[Duma]

Re Ashima - Jens says no:

https://www.8a.nu/news/ashima-was-misinformed-about-the-9a+-grade

[remus]

Seems to split opinion, Jonathan Siegrest repeated it recently (same line as Ashima I think i.e. without the 8b+ bit) and took 9a/+ or 9a+ (soft) depending on how you read it.

https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/spain/santa-linya/sectors/cuevita/routes/direct-open-your-mind/

[jwi]

It is all a bit of a mess: https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/edu-marin-hace-open-your-mind-direct-9a-plus-2015-ha-sido-uno-de-mis-mejores-anos/

If the first ascensionist went to the top, everyone else should. Unless they want to call the route something else. This cannot be a controversial opinion?

[remus]

If the first ascensionist went to the top, everyone else should. Unless they want to call the route something else. This cannot be a controversial opinion?

How about Open Your Mind Direct L1 and Open Your Mind Direct L2? I agree it is confusing given that the intermediate belay was added after the FA though.

[edshakey]

Looks like Tom Pearce has done Psykovsky's Sequins

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/danby_crag-3096/psykovskys_sequins-198943