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significant repeats (Read 3086677 times)

MischaHY

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#10250 Re: significant repeats
November 25, 2021, 07:06:40 am
Considering he needed more than twice as long as Will did I would hope the grade holds! But we'll see if he comes out with a Stefano style second post heartbreaker  :popcorn:

Are you sure? It says he had 9 days on it (and two splits).  I thought Will had 10.

Yes, apologies. I was evidently thinking of La Capella which went down very quickly.

shark

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#10251 Re: significant repeats
November 25, 2021, 10:05:56 am
Waddage. 4th 8B this year?! https://climbing-history.org/climber/344/molly-thompson-smith

Iím assuming you are referencing Flip Flopera at the Bowderstone and done in a session! Where did you pick that up from?

remus

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#10252 Re: significant repeats
November 25, 2021, 10:35:16 am
Molly TS did Flip Flopera (8B) today on the Bowder, in a session too.

 ;)

Adam Lincoln

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#10253 Re: significant repeats
November 25, 2021, 10:35:24 am
Waddage. 4th 8B this year?! https://climbing-history.org/climber/344/molly-thompson-smith

Iím assuming you are referencing Flip Flopera at the Bowderstone and done in a session! Where did you pick that up from?

UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/topascents.php#bouldering the new 8a.nu for ascent stalking.

shark

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#10254 Re: significant repeats
November 25, 2021, 10:39:58 am
Ah! Didnít realise she kept a UKC logbook.

Liked this entry for it..

Quote
Alex moore   6 Apr   Sent
If this isn't 8B or the bouldering equivalent of lifting 250 kilo's then the countries grading system has lost the weak plot it might once have had before the G came out and squashed it like a french man making wine.

  :lol:


jwi

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#10255 Re: significant repeats
November 27, 2021, 09:56:40 am
Simon Lorenzi has done the 3rd repeat of the low start to Off the Wagon, 8C+, in Val Bavona. https://fanatic-climbing.com/les-derniers-8c-bloc-the-latest-8c-boulders/

remus

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#10256 Re: significant repeats
November 27, 2021, 11:51:28 am
Simon Lorenzi has done the 3rd repeat of the low start to Off the Wagon, 8C+, in Val Bavona. https://fanatic-climbing.com/les-derniers-8c-bloc-the-latest-8c-boulders/

I think it's 4th repeat and 5th ascent overall. Shawn, Jimmy, d woods, Giuliano and now Simon.

https://climbing-history.org/climb/830/off-the-wagon-sds

jwi

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#10257 Re: significant repeats
November 28, 2021, 06:50:02 pm

DAVETHOMAS90

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#10258 Re: significant repeats
November 28, 2021, 07:13:09 pm
Seamlessly spliced. You really can't tell  ;D

Sweet line.
Looks quite cold there too.

Kingy

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#10259 Re: significant repeats
November 28, 2021, 07:20:07 pm
Seamlessly spliced. You really can't tell  ;D


Looks uncut to me?

Wellsy

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#10260 Re: significant repeats
November 28, 2021, 07:23:01 pm
I'm waiting for Will Hunt's girlfriend to review the footage and give the verdict, good or bad

countyyoungin

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#10261 Re: significant repeats
November 30, 2021, 01:51:55 pm
Neds reclimbed mein vein sit start, not globally significant but looked pretty hard after the heel break. Suggested 8a+ but looks like another tricky heel.

Fiend

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#10262 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2021, 10:07:33 am
Heel hook basically in a different postcode.

countyyoungin

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#10263 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2021, 10:31:24 pm
Not too far away this time! I had a go at that method the other day and failed utterly. Iím at the other end of the spectrum when it comes to flexibility like that. Strangely felt all in the right leg rather than the left heel

Duma

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#10264 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2021, 08:36:29 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/CXT7j6fD3SH/?utm_medium=copy_link

Jakob has done King Capella and La Capella on the same day, suggests 9b and 9a+

IanP

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#10265 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2021, 10:37:46 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/CXT7j6fD3SH/?utm_medium=copy_link

Jakob has done King Capella and La Capella on the same day, suggests 9b and 9a+

Impressive, love a bit of Jakob.  Hard 9b for King Capella he reckoned, don't think Will should be unhappy about that - two of the strongest sport climbers in the world repeat his route and whatever grade it ends up at he wasn't far off, a really impressive FA.

Bradders

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#10266 Re: significant repeats
December 11, 2021, 08:57:02 am
Is that one of the strongest days ever?

Just assuming that the grades everyone else has proposed for them are right, has anyone else ever done 9b+ and 9b in the same day? Or even two 9a+s or harder in the same day?

Kingy

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#10267 Re: significant repeats
December 11, 2021, 09:01:48 am
Is that one of the strongest days ever?

Just assuming that the grades everyone else has proposed for them are right, has anyone else ever done 9b+ and 9b in the same day? Or even two 9a+s or harder in the same day?

Ten years ago, Sharma climbed 9b (FA of Fight or Flight) and Chaxi 9a+ both at Oliana on the same day.

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/
« Last Edit: December 11, 2021, 09:24:13 am by Kingy »

Bradders

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#10268 Re: significant repeats
December 11, 2021, 10:22:07 am
Great knowledge as per Ted!

Ed booth

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#10269 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 05:19:02 pm
Someone has logged My Own Private Idaho up in Crafant. Would this be the first repeat ?

Adam Lincoln

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#10270 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 05:24:35 pm
Someone has logged My Own Private Idaho up in Crafant. Would this be the first repeat ?

It was Tim Blake

JackPal

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#10271 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 05:30:46 pm
Someone has logged My Own Private Idaho up in Crafant. Would this be the first repeat ?

Second after Ned. Time for Tim to move on, he's crushed pretty much everything in North Wales now!

Ged

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#10272 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 08:24:27 pm
Is that one of the strongest days ever?

Just assuming that the grades everyone else has proposed for them are right, has anyone else ever done 9b+ and 9b in the same day? Or even two 9a+s or harder in the same day?

Ten years ago, Sharma climbed 9b (FA of Fight or Flight) and Chaxi 9a+ both at Oliana on the same day.

https://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/

Sharmas effort seems more impressive I think, given the energy expenditure required for one of those oliana routes, compared to a relatively short bouldery route. Never mind the fact he already had two decent burns on other routes before!

Duma

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#10273 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 08:50:30 pm
Well maybe, but
a) we don't know how many goes Jakob had that day
b) the routes are harder (though perhaps not by a full grade)
c) fight or flight is one of the shortest hard routes at Oliana
d) his attempt on Chaxiraxi apparently ended at the last move of the boulder problem - which is at the start...

Ged

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#10274 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 09:10:22 pm
I can definitely have a lot of goes in a day on a short route at my limit, and probably only 1 go on a long route at my limit that involves getting high.

They're the same grade according to Schubert.

 

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