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significant repeats (Read 4234052 times)

Ged

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#10175 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 07:40:31 pm
and ^C ^V for those without any social media:

I’ve always been drawn to climbs that have both historical significance and an air of mystery surrounding them. In today’s day and age, that combination is getting harder to come by, with every piece of stone captured a million ways and cast out into the daily feed without a moments thought. While this sharing of information satisfies our immediate arm chair curiosity, it has the potential to rob us of a real experience complete with the trials and tribulations of understanding something for yourself. In American climbing, there is no route more shrouded in mystery than @tommycaldwell ‘s Flex Luther at The Fortress of Solitude. He made the First Ascent in 2003, proposed it as the first 5.15 in America and save for a couple snaps from @timkemple, there’s nearly no information about the route. Over the years, whispers of broken holds and unclimbable choss have dominated the narrative, but I always found that information to be speculative and incomplete. It continued to draw me in, to discover the truth for myself. Finally this year, I decided to put everything into climbing Flex. I spent a month in the Spring sorting the moves but was thwarted by wet holds and a lack of partners. I returned at the beginning of October to continue my efforts. It’s been a long month of hot days, wet days and everything in between, but finally yesterday I was able to clip the chains on one of my dream routes. It’s definitely the hardest thing I’ve climbed on a rope so far.

The whole process has been captured on film and I’m looking forward to telling more about this story in a future release. For now, I must extend a massive thanks to everyone who has supported this journey.


So a misty eyed bit of preaching about how social media and the filming of everything is ruining the adventure of climbing... Posted on social media with a subscript saying it was all filmed for release soon.

Nice.

It strikes me that sometimes people want to be the cool, under the radar person who doesn't use social media and just goes about crushing hard routes... Without being willing to be under rhe radar and not use social media.

crimpinainteasy

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#10176 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 09:16:29 pm
It feels like the UK is the home of sandbag grading for both bouldering and sport.

I obviously can't comment on Mutation, but in my experience in the 8s some UK routes are graded pretty hard and some pretty soft. Same as most places - Spain, France, Frankenjura etc... It's just that when you go on holiday to an area most people choose the softies (which are also fairly often the classics, in part by virtue of popularity being higher on soft routes and popular routes becoming de facto classics)! The vast majority of UK routes would get the same grade in another country in my experience, unless you listen to the downgrade-mongers and downgrade anything remotely soft.

That said, UK rock is, on the whole, harder to onsight on. It's also typically quite bouldery and bouldery routes are like boulder problems - fewer moves = more comes down to if a certain move "fits" you = more erratic grading where some 8as feel like 8bs and vice versa. You get the same in other shorter areas in my experience (e.g. in Frankenjura where the same grade can mean I'll do it second go or spend a whole day on the route and fail to even do any of the hard moves in isolation)
That's actually a really good explanation and makes a lot of sense now I think about it regarding the style of UK sport climbing and people mostly going for softies abroad. Cheers.

IanP

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#10177 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2021, 10:51:50 am

Vid of American Hustle OS



Oh la la!

Despite this being a relatively straightforward uncut ascent video with no commentary I found it strangely mesmerising.  Proper onsight climbing - up and down sorting out the moves, taking jacket off while hanging of arms, working round the sun in the eyes etc.  Despite it not looking easy Janja looked to be pretty in control all the way despite possibly showing some of her relative lack of experience on rock compared to watching, for example, Ondra onsighting hard. 

Really hope she does commit more time to climbing on rock, it looks like she's capable of climbing significantly harder, could be really interesting to see what she can achieve.

Duma

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#10178 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2021, 11:07:12 am
I'm glad someone appreciated it - I thought that vid was amazing. It's really good to see proper onsighting, and it felt relatable, despite the grade.

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#10179 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2021, 01:36:22 pm
Yeah, I liked it too. As you say, relatable.

Anyone know the crux('s) grade? Just wondering how hard she was actually onsighting there!

Duma

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#10180 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2021, 02:05:30 pm
from fanatic climbing:
"The route could be described as a fingery then pumpy 8a+ start before a little rest on a flake, leading to a physical resistance section in the middle by way of crux. Then comes the stamina 8a+ finish with some powerful and risky moves, separated by good rests."

the vid misses most of the initial 8a+ section I think, and guess the flake after is where she takes off her jacket

Duma

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#10181 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2021, 02:08:36 pm

andy popp

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#10182 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2021, 03:00:04 pm
I'm glad someone appreciated it

What a machine. Sure, she was having to try in the middle crux section, but she looked calm and in control throughout.

IanP

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#10183 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2021, 04:17:27 pm
What a machine. Sure, she was having to try in the middle crux section, but she looked calm and in control throughout.

Indeed, in her own words from the interview linked above:

'In my opinion it’s harder than Fish eye so I also had to fight a bit more. But I was very relaxed and could solve the moves pretty fast. It was not so obvious so I had to really fight in a few sections of the route.'

Kingy

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#10184 Re: significant repeats
November 12, 2021, 10:20:25 pm
Some more strong sessions from Toby Roberts at the Tor.

Kabaah 8c+ ticked yesterday on only his 2nd session on the route. Then the same session yesterday fell off the upper crux of Stevolution 9a due to a bleeding tip and looking really fresh. Stevolution ticked today for its likely 3rd ascent (after Steve and Ryan Pasquill).  :strongbench: :strongbench:


duncan

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#10185 Re: significant repeats
November 17, 2021, 02:44:38 pm
Allesandro 'Ale' Zeni has repeated Eternit, Manolo's 2009 "hardest slab in the world" at Baule in the Italian Dolomites.

Manolo suggested 9a but thought it harder than Bain de Sang. Holds "were tampered with" after the first ascent and Zeni has suggested 9a+. Ondra had also indicated it could be 9a+: https://www.instagram.com/p/BayWJ7ElBNt/?hl=en

Amazingly, pictures of the ascent suggest it was made in full sun  ;): https://www.instagram.com/p/CWXq80ltmTq/

Fiend

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#10186 Re: significant repeats
November 17, 2021, 05:51:24 pm
Nice one, beautiful bit of rock. I wonder how slabby it is i.e. how many degrees off vertical??

remus

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#10187 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2021, 10:42:33 pm
Just browsing 8a.nu and it looks like Will Bosi has continued his run of form at the tor with repeats of Hooligan 8c and Seraphim 8b+. Is that the first repeat of seraphim?

abarro81

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#10188 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2021, 10:45:10 pm
A Frenchman has done it IIRC, Pierre Bollinger I think (though I may have got the spelling wrong). There's a video somewhere on YouTube (or used to be)

Kingy

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#10189 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2021, 08:16:30 am

remus

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#10190 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2021, 09:53:05 am
Good knowledge, thanks both.

teestub

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#10191 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2021, 09:57:02 am
Pierre Bollinger is a fucking strong name

mrjonathanr

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#10192 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2021, 02:21:37 pm
I am hoping for la Veuve Clicquot in the female veterans classification.

andy popp

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#10193 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2021, 03:33:08 pm
I am hoping for la Veuve Clicquot in the female veterans classification.

Don't get me started! Madame Clicquot was a fascinating person - and not only a real person, but also a real widow (veuve).

Duma

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#10194 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2021, 05:35:47 pm
Megos has done King Capella. Different beta apparently, but no comment on grade:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWi9rQKspaj/?utm_medium=copy_link

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#10195 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2021, 05:43:31 pm
Considering he needed more than twice as long as Will did I would hope the grade holds! But we'll see if he comes out with a Stefano style second post heartbreaker  :popcorn:

Wood FT

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#10196 Re: significant repeats
November 21, 2021, 07:01:18 pm
Megos has done King Capella. Different beta apparently, but no comment on grade:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWi9rQKspaj/?utm_medium=copy_link

The 'easier beta, so easier for me' line is always the giveaway

Teaboy

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#10197 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2021, 07:18:16 pm
Has Gaia been flashed before? I can’t remember if someone from Team America did so or not. Anyway, someone has now…..

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWi_gh2F5IM/?utm_medium=copy_link

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#10198 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2021, 07:27:39 pm
Excellent stuff indeed  :2thumbsup: All that fumbling and up and downing at the top of the groove  :o

Pretty sure at least one of Team Murica did, maybe more. Still great to see these routes done in good style.

Adam Lincoln

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#10199 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2021, 07:42:29 pm
Has Ry not flashed it?

 

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