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significant repeats (Read 4234096 times)

remus

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#10150 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 08:04:18 am
Interesting it mentions Nick's ascent of Evo as the third, I thought it was the second? Did someone else nip in for the second?

Malc

Who else! Good knowledge as per, cheers Ru.

abarro81

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#10151 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 09:36:14 am
On the aside, grade X into grade X is always a bit meaningless for doing grade maths since it's so style dependent. Usually I think "add 2", e.g. 8b into 8b = 8c, but it could also easily be 8b+ or 8c+ depending on style of the sections and rests.. which all tells us that Mutation and Rainman are both somewhere from 9a to 9b. Give or take. Definitive 9a/9b+ perhaps?

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#10152 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 10:08:56 am
On the aside, grade X into grade X is always a bit meaningless for doing grade maths since it's so style dependent. Usually I think "add 2", e.g. 8b into 8b = 8c, but it could also easily be 8b+ or 8c+ depending on style of the sections and rests.. which all tells us that Mutation and Rainman are both somewhere from 9a to 9b. Give or take. Definitive 9a/9b+ perhaps?

(9a/9b)/(9a+/9b+) , deffo.

(Credit to dunnyg who started refining the all important slash grade protocol)

Bonjoy

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#10153 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 10:14:09 am
On the aside, grade X into grade X is always a bit meaningless for doing grade maths since it's so style dependent. Usually I think "add 2", e.g. 8b into 8b = 8c, but it could also easily be 8b+ or 8c+ depending on style of the sections
Exactly.
To take a couple of relatable/soft 8b examples, Revelations into Austrian Oak would be a much easier route than Austrian Oak straight into Revelations!

petejh

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#10154 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 12:27:28 pm
What amazing routes those would be!

Could be onto something here - ‘fantasy route combos’.

Kingy

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#10155 Re: significant repeats
November 06, 2021, 07:20:40 pm
Another ascent of Evolution today at the Tor by Toby Roberts on his 3rd day on. 4th go of the day after falling off the last move 3 times earlier in the session

remus

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#10156 Re: significant repeats
November 08, 2021, 04:29:57 pm
Jen Wood climbed Abyssos 8b+ in Kalymnos today for her first 8b+. Wad!

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#10157 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 08:49:09 am
Ondra has made the 3rd ascent of Erebor and (poetically) suggested 9b. https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWG3br6jcrn/

It would be interesting to see if he gets on Bibliography now, as Stefano said that's not much harder.

Duma

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#10158 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 09:17:09 am
It would be interesting to see if he gets on Bibliography now, as Stefano said that's not much harder.

Céüse is pretty hardcore this time of year I think, plus it sounds like Stefano used a harder sequence on Erebor


Duma

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#10159 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 09:44:36 am
Interrupting Mutation related chat:

Fish Eye 8c onsight for Janja in Oliana  :strongbench:

What's the hardest women's onsight?

And another one:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CV03xjuDaNx/?utm_medium=copy_link

Great seeing Janja crushing on rock. Would love to see some videos!

Vid of American Hustle OS


duncan

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#10160 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 10:08:08 am

Vid of American Hustle OS



Oh la la!

Bradders

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#10161 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 10:54:49 am

lukeyboy

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#10162 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 12:45:55 pm
Third ascent of Flex Luthor by Carlo Traversi

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=312684150681942&id=100058210773189

That is significant  :bow: don't have fb so can't see the link, did he comment on the ascent / grade?

Duma

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#10163 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 12:52:25 pm
No. IG link if that's any better for you?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CWGuUCVl72B/?utm_medium=copy_link

moose

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#10164 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 12:54:06 pm
and ^C ^V for those without any social media:

I’ve always been drawn to climbs that have both historical significance and an air of mystery surrounding them. In today’s day and age, that combination is getting harder to come by, with every piece of stone captured a million ways and cast out into the daily feed without a moments thought. While this sharing of information satisfies our immediate arm chair curiosity, it has the potential to rob us of a real experience complete with the trials and tribulations of understanding something for yourself. In American climbing, there is no route more shrouded in mystery than @tommycaldwell ‘s Flex Luther at The Fortress of Solitude. He made the First Ascent in 2003, proposed it as the first 5.15 in America and save for a couple snaps from @timkemple, there’s nearly no information about the route. Over the years, whispers of broken holds and unclimbable choss have dominated the narrative, but I always found that information to be speculative and incomplete. It continued to draw me in, to discover the truth for myself. Finally this year, I decided to put everything into climbing Flex. I spent a month in the Spring sorting the moves but was thwarted by wet holds and a lack of partners. I returned at the beginning of October to continue my efforts. It’s been a long month of hot days, wet days and everything in between, but finally yesterday I was able to clip the chains on one of my dream routes. It’s definitely the hardest thing I’ve climbed on a rope so far.

The whole process has been captured on film and I’m looking forward to telling more about this story in a future release. For now, I must extend a massive thanks to everyone who has supported this journey.



SA Chris

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#10165 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 12:55:52 pm
he was doing well until he used "journey".

Duma

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#10166 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 12:58:28 pm
and ^C ^V for those without any social media:

the link wouldn't let me copy the text, not sure how you managed it

El Mocho

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#10167 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 01:03:16 pm
"I’ve always been drawn to climbs that have both historical significance and an air of mystery surrounding them. In today’s day and age, that combination is getting harder to come by, with every piece of stone captured a million ways and cast out into the daily feed without a moments thought"

"The whole process has been captured on film and I’m looking forward to telling more about this story in a future release."

 :-\

lukeyboy

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#10168 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 01:39:55 pm
Thanks for copying the text, on behalf of luddites everywhere.

Yes agree with El Mocho, those were my thoughts too. An impressive lack of self awareness to write something like that in your multi social media press release...

36chambers

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#10169 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 01:59:57 pm
"I’ve always been drawn to climbs that have both historical significance and an air of mystery surrounding them. In today’s day and age, that combination is getting harder to come by, with every piece of stone captured a million ways and cast out into the daily feed without a moments thought"

"The whole process has been captured on film and I’m looking forward to telling more about this story in a future release."

 :-\

Translation: "You get more internet points if you've got footage of a climb that hasn't been filmed a thousand times before"

Fiend

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#10170 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 02:12:31 pm
Would be nice if that was actually true.

It's certainly something I value watching though.

crimpinainteasy

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#10171 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 03:09:04 pm
So 9a+ on home turf takes 40 sessions over 4 years, but he can do 9b+ on holiday???

Edit: iIt's the 9a+ i'm doubting, not the 9b+ if it isnt clear enough!

9b = 3 sessions
9b+ = 10 sessions
9a+ = 40 sessions

Seems crazy, the difference…

It feels like the UK is the home of sandbag grading for both bouldering and sport. It makes no sense how guys like Will and Aidan consistently climb 2 grades harder abroad Vs on home turf.

petejh

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#10172 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 03:13:44 pm
Does adobe premiere (or whatever film-makers use these days) have a 'phone-propped-on-shoe' filter? Seems it's needed to make climbing footage appear more authentic to current tastes. What goes around etc.
Come 2025 we'll have gone the other way. Commenting that footage of Ondra's latest FA wasn't released in a format compatible with our total immersion metaverse. Actually that would be a good training aid.

abarro81

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#10173 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 03:36:26 pm
It feels like the UK is the home of sandbag grading for both bouldering and sport.

I obviously can't comment on Mutation, but in my experience in the 8s some UK routes are graded pretty hard and some pretty soft. Same as most places - Spain, France, Frankenjura etc... It's just that when you go on holiday to an area most people choose the softies (which are also fairly often the classics, in part by virtue of popularity being higher on soft routes and popular routes becoming de facto classics)! The vast majority of UK routes would get the same grade in another country in my experience, unless you listen to the downgrade-mongers and downgrade anything remotely soft.

That said, UK rock is, on the whole, harder to onsight on. It's also typically quite bouldery and bouldery routes are like boulder problems - fewer moves = more comes down to if a certain move "fits" you = more erratic grading where some 8as feel like 8bs and vice versa. You get the same in other shorter areas in my experience (e.g. in Frankenjura where the same grade can mean I'll do it second go or spend a whole day on the route and fail to even do any of the hard moves in isolation)

Johnny Brown

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#10174 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 06:41:26 pm
"I’ve always been drawn to climbs that have both historical significance and an air of mystery surrounding them. In today’s day and age, that combination is getting harder to come by, with every

Has anyone told him about Shadowplay?

 

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