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significant repeats (Read 3389665 times)

edshakey

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#10175 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 05:29:01 pm
Little interview up here



Bizarre him saying he would have given it 9a if done it first go of the day cos felt piss. You donít grade a seige by the go you do it as it usually does feel easy. The 38 days longer than the Spanish 9b and all the effort is probably a better indication  ;)

Agreed, that kind of attitude would only seem to be justified by unlocking some ground breaking sequence that he'd never tried before, and suddenly makes it all really easy. I'd have liked to see his interview afterwards if he did go for 9a, and had to compare it to his 9b+ FA!

Bradders

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#10176 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 08:14:02 pm
Interrupting Mutation related chat:

Fish Eye 8c onsight for Janja in Oliana  :strongbench:

What's the hardest women's onsight?

And another one:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CV03xjuDaNx/?utm_medium=copy_link

Great seeing Janja crushing on rock. Would love to see some videos!

edshakey

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#10177 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 09:51:29 pm
Amazing!

1 minute of searching has yielded no results for Janja climbing outside (apart from that video on the chimney  :lol:). Is there any existing footage of her on routes or boulders?

Nibile

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#10178 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 09:51:54 pm
Page over page to show that The Tor is still the place to be, motherfuckers.

remus

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#10179 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 10:06:33 pm
Amazing!

1 minute of searching has yielded no results for Janja climbing outside (apart from that video on the chimney  :lol:). Is there any existing footage of her on routes or boulders?

She's by no means an outdoor punter, she's got a couple of 9as under her belt and flashed 8c a few years ago https://climbing-history.org/climber/1002/janja-garnbret

edshakey

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#10180 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 10:29:36 pm
Yeah I knew she'd been getting bits and pieces done over the last few years, but nowadays it seems surprising when there's no footage! Hopefully something from Spain is being filmed, will be cool to see her style translated to rock

Kingy

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#10181 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 10:33:53 pm
There's a movie of her absolutely smoking an 8b+ pitch on a multi-pitch on a massive concrete chimney with Domen

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#10182 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 10:34:30 am
Bosi doing Mutation is incredibly cool but one thing it definitely does make me think is how massively ahead of the game Steve must have been. Arguably the best in the world in his style in the late 90s? I think that'd be not unreasonable to suggest.

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#10183 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 10:43:41 am
what do you regard as "his style"? Not so steep sustained horrendously crimpy UK type limestone? If so, possibly.

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#10184 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 02:18:32 pm
Enjoyed this Janja snippet from the other channel:

"Fanatic Climbing also report that Janja climbed the crux on La Dura Dura, Adam Ondra's desperate 9b+, during her warm-up."

Rocksteady

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#10185 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 02:26:39 pm
Some old footage of Steve on Mutation resurrected by Posing Productions

Glad my 5 minute grade appraisal of the upper wall stood the test of time.

I really enjoyed that element of the video, made the difficulty a lot more relatable.


Nike Air

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#10187 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 10:28:19 pm
Lots of good info on Mutation here:

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/bosi-makes-historic-second-ascent-of-mutation-f9a-b/?fbclid=IwAR20dOVsZf7_pHagdQw812uFskvAKNwY-zxuNHHclzPNZgHVJFHnHK1qIe4

Interesting read that Nick.

It's cool that Steve did it all those years ago. Wonder if it skewed his gradar from then on?

On a side not does the hands off knee bar in the middle of Rainman interfer with the 8c+ into 8c+ maths?

teestub

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#10188 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 10:35:59 pm
Lots of good info on Mutation here:

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/bosi-makes-historic-second-ascent-of-mutation-f9a-b/?fbclid=IwAR20dOVsZf7_pHagdQw812uFskvAKNwY-zxuNHHclzPNZgHVJFHnHK1qIe4

Thanks Bradders. Interesting that Steve said he considers the route essentially the same as when he did it; Iím sure Iíd read various things about it having gotten harder from hold loss.

Ru

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#10189 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 11:33:27 pm
Re: Mutation grade, you have to factor in that Steve is absolutely incredible on those sorts of holds. I'm not sure how he does it, finger tip pulp consistency maybe, technique, confidence, possibly, I don't think it's simply finger strength in the one arm deadhanging lattice rung sense. I've seen him get up Evolution without breaking a sweat in terrible conditions. The day that Posing Productions video was shot was not great - it was warmish and humid - you can see wet streaks on the wall. But after a few goes on the moves he was linking the meat of the the headwall again and threw in a redpoint attempt or two. I might be misremembering but I think he did Mecca Extension afterwards.

remus

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#10190 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 07:23:23 am
Lots of good info on Mutation here:

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/bosi-makes-historic-second-ascent-of-mutation-f9a-b/?fbclid=IwAR20dOVsZf7_pHagdQw812uFskvAKNwY-zxuNHHclzPNZgHVJFHnHK1qIe4

Thanks Bradders, good read.

Interesting it mentions Nick's ascent of Evo as the third, I thought it was the second? Did someone else nip in for the second?

@Nike I think a potential downgrade has been bandied about with the new kneebar beta.

Ru

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#10191 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 07:51:56 am
Interesting it mentions Nick's ascent of Evo as the third, I thought it was the second? Did someone else nip in for the second?

Malc

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#10192 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 08:04:18 am
Interesting it mentions Nick's ascent of Evo as the third, I thought it was the second? Did someone else nip in for the second?

Malc

Who else! Good knowledge as per, cheers Ru.

abarro81

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#10193 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 09:36:14 am
On the aside, grade X into grade X is always a bit meaningless for doing grade maths since it's so style dependent. Usually I think "add 2", e.g. 8b into 8b = 8c, but it could also easily be 8b+ or 8c+ depending on style of the sections and rests.. which all tells us that Mutation and Rainman are both somewhere from 9a to 9b. Give or take. Definitive 9a/9b+ perhaps?

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#10194 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 10:08:56 am
On the aside, grade X into grade X is always a bit meaningless for doing grade maths since it's so style dependent. Usually I think "add 2", e.g. 8b into 8b = 8c, but it could also easily be 8b+ or 8c+ depending on style of the sections and rests.. which all tells us that Mutation and Rainman are both somewhere from 9a to 9b. Give or take. Definitive 9a/9b+ perhaps?

(9a/9b)/(9a+/9b+) , deffo.

(Credit to dunnyg who started refining the all important slash grade protocol)

Bonjoy

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#10195 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 10:14:09 am
On the aside, grade X into grade X is always a bit meaningless for doing grade maths since it's so style dependent. Usually I think "add 2", e.g. 8b into 8b = 8c, but it could also easily be 8b+ or 8c+ depending on style of the sections
Exactly.
To take a couple of relatable/soft 8b examples, Revelations into Austrian Oak would be a much easier route than Austrian Oak straight into Revelations!

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#10196 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 12:27:28 pm
What amazing routes those would be!

Could be onto something here - Ďfantasy route combosí.

Kingy

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#10197 Re: significant repeats
November 06, 2021, 07:20:40 pm
Another ascent of Evolution today at the Tor by Toby Roberts on his 3rd day on. 4th go of the day after falling off the last move 3 times earlier in the session

remus

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#10198 Re: significant repeats
November 08, 2021, 04:29:57 pm
Jen Wood climbed Abyssos 8b+ in Kalymnos today for her first 8b+. Wad!

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#10199 Re: significant repeats
November 11, 2021, 08:49:09 am
Ondra has made the 3rd ascent of Erebor and (poetically) suggested 9b. https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWG3br6jcrn/

It would be interesting to see if he gets on Bibliography now, as Stefano said that's not much harder.

 

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