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significant repeats (Read 4233895 times)

duncan

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#10125 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 02:51:14 pm
Quote from: edshakey link=topic=10607.msg647580#msg647580

What's the hardest women's onsight?

Good question. Dunno. The first 8c onsight seems to have been credited to Kajsa Rosen in 2016 for the uninspiringly named T-1 Full equipe also at Oliana assuming that’s held it’s grade

Fanatic climbing suggest this is the first "benchmark" 8c onsight by a woman (they give T1 etc. 8b+).
https://fanatic-climbing.com/janja-garnbret-realise-le-premier-8c-a-vue-feminin-de-lhistoire-janja-garnbret-onsights-first-female-8c-in-climbing-history/

crimpingandy

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#10126 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 02:59:01 pm
Both myself and Rich were around a no of times when JG was trying BG. Typically we’d get their reasonably early and John would be there with his wife or brother belaying having been then for a few hours.

Never saw him make a redpoint but saw him do at least most of the moves and link a few together. Moves looked incredibly hard on terrible holds in bad positions. Not pulling really just holding positions and moving limbs. Classic Tor style. Remember thinking the veins in his head were going to rupture he was trying so hard.

Will Hunt

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#10127 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 03:06:14 pm
Has anybody in the know ever mooted what grade Brandenburg might be?

dunnyg

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#10128 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 03:32:22 pm
E13 7c

shurt

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#10129 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 03:40:27 pm
Paul Reeve saw Gaskins get really high on redpoint nearly up into Make It Funky which means he got past the low mono move which Will was struggling on which he only managed for the first time last week

Was this his 'few moves from easy ground' attempt he mentions in the book then? (Dont have book to hand so going on hazy memory) Good knowledge Shark

The overriding memory Paul has was that Gaskins got high enough that Paul thought he was going to do it. Unfortunately Paul is unclear the exact position Gaskins fell off - after all he didn’t realise then that he was one of the few independent witnesses that saw Gaskins get close or do something significant and so would lead him to be quizzed about it years later.

I think Rich Heap was around that day too. I'll ask him.

It's one of the reasons I've felt the doubts about JG's claims are maybe less warranted. Having had witnesses to such a close effort, if JG was going to lie about anything, surely it would be quite believable to say "Yeah, amazing, went back a couple of mornings later and did it".

I totally agree on the JG BG situation. Its not like Rich Simpson put in a huge amount of effort into something that he never did driving for hours at 5am or whatever. Unfortunately there is a huge amount of doubt about loads of the bouldering stuff.

Re the grade I think it would have been one or if not the hardest route in the world at the time wouldn't it? 9b or 9b+ crazy to think

crimpingandy

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#10130 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 03:45:19 pm
Don’t remember JG using a pinky mono. Used to have a photographic memory for climbing but not these days. As far as I remember sequence was.

Matched in break, LH Gaston 1st roof, RH small undercut under 1st roof, LH pinch undercut in 2nd roof, RH match, LH crimp small pocket, RH turn pinch to undercut, LH good edge, Then use MIF footholds to climb into MIF. Lots of foot changes involved

Duncan campbell

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#10131 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 03:54:00 pm
Has Steve Mac ever tried it? Or after doing the Tor things he did did he just get stuck into more inspiring stuff at Kilnsey, Malham etc? 

Doylo

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#10132 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 04:10:21 pm
Little interview up here



Bizarre him saying he would have given it 9a if done it first go of the day cos felt piss. You don’t grade a seige by the go you do it as it usually does feel easy. The 38 days longer than the Spanish 9b and all the effort is probably a better indication  ;)

edshakey

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#10133 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 05:29:01 pm
Little interview up here



Bizarre him saying he would have given it 9a if done it first go of the day cos felt piss. You don’t grade a seige by the go you do it as it usually does feel easy. The 38 days longer than the Spanish 9b and all the effort is probably a better indication  ;)

Agreed, that kind of attitude would only seem to be justified by unlocking some ground breaking sequence that he'd never tried before, and suddenly makes it all really easy. I'd have liked to see his interview afterwards if he did go for 9a, and had to compare it to his 9b+ FA!

Bradders

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#10134 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 08:14:02 pm
Interrupting Mutation related chat:

Fish Eye 8c onsight for Janja in Oliana  :strongbench:

What's the hardest women's onsight?

And another one:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CV03xjuDaNx/?utm_medium=copy_link

Great seeing Janja crushing on rock. Would love to see some videos!

edshakey

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#10135 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 09:51:29 pm
Amazing!

1 minute of searching has yielded no results for Janja climbing outside (apart from that video on the chimney  :lol:). Is there any existing footage of her on routes or boulders?

Nibile

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#10136 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 09:51:54 pm
Page over page to show that The Tor is still the place to be, motherfuckers.

remus

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#10137 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 10:06:33 pm
Amazing!

1 minute of searching has yielded no results for Janja climbing outside (apart from that video on the chimney  :lol:). Is there any existing footage of her on routes or boulders?

She's by no means an outdoor punter, she's got a couple of 9as under her belt and flashed 8c a few years ago https://climbing-history.org/climber/1002/janja-garnbret

edshakey

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#10138 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 10:29:36 pm
Yeah I knew she'd been getting bits and pieces done over the last few years, but nowadays it seems surprising when there's no footage! Hopefully something from Spain is being filmed, will be cool to see her style translated to rock

Kingy

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#10139 Re: significant repeats
November 03, 2021, 10:33:53 pm
There's a movie of her absolutely smoking an 8b+ pitch on a multi-pitch on a massive concrete chimney with Domen

Wellsy

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#10140 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 10:34:30 am
Bosi doing Mutation is incredibly cool but one thing it definitely does make me think is how massively ahead of the game Steve must have been. Arguably the best in the world in his style in the late 90s? I think that'd be not unreasonable to suggest.

SA Chris

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#10141 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 10:43:41 am
what do you regard as "his style"? Not so steep sustained horrendously crimpy UK type limestone? If so, possibly.

lukeyboy

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#10142 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 02:18:32 pm
Enjoyed this Janja snippet from the other channel:

"Fanatic Climbing also report that Janja climbed the crux on La Dura Dura, Adam Ondra's desperate 9b+, during her warm-up."

Rocksteady

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#10143 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 02:26:39 pm
Some old footage of Steve on Mutation resurrected by Posing Productions

Glad my 5 minute grade appraisal of the upper wall stood the test of time.

I really enjoyed that element of the video, made the difficulty a lot more relatable.


Nike Air

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#10145 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 10:28:19 pm
Lots of good info on Mutation here:

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/bosi-makes-historic-second-ascent-of-mutation-f9a-b/?fbclid=IwAR20dOVsZf7_pHagdQw812uFskvAKNwY-zxuNHHclzPNZgHVJFHnHK1qIe4

Interesting read that Nick.

It's cool that Steve did it all those years ago. Wonder if it skewed his gradar from then on?

On a side not does the hands off knee bar in the middle of Rainman interfer with the 8c+ into 8c+ maths?

teestub

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#10146 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 10:35:59 pm
Lots of good info on Mutation here:

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/bosi-makes-historic-second-ascent-of-mutation-f9a-b/?fbclid=IwAR20dOVsZf7_pHagdQw812uFskvAKNwY-zxuNHHclzPNZgHVJFHnHK1qIe4

Thanks Bradders. Interesting that Steve said he considers the route essentially the same as when he did it; I’m sure I’d read various things about it having gotten harder from hold loss.

Ru

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#10147 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2021, 11:33:27 pm
Re: Mutation grade, you have to factor in that Steve is absolutely incredible on those sorts of holds. I'm not sure how he does it, finger tip pulp consistency maybe, technique, confidence, possibly, I don't think it's simply finger strength in the one arm deadhanging lattice rung sense. I've seen him get up Evolution without breaking a sweat in terrible conditions. The day that Posing Productions video was shot was not great - it was warmish and humid - you can see wet streaks on the wall. But after a few goes on the moves he was linking the meat of the the headwall again and threw in a redpoint attempt or two. I might be misremembering but I think he did Mecca Extension afterwards.

remus

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#10148 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 07:23:23 am
Lots of good info on Mutation here:

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/bosi-makes-historic-second-ascent-of-mutation-f9a-b/?fbclid=IwAR20dOVsZf7_pHagdQw812uFskvAKNwY-zxuNHHclzPNZgHVJFHnHK1qIe4

Thanks Bradders, good read.

Interesting it mentions Nick's ascent of Evo as the third, I thought it was the second? Did someone else nip in for the second?

@Nike I think a potential downgrade has been bandied about with the new kneebar beta.

Ru

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#10149 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2021, 07:51:56 am
Interesting it mentions Nick's ascent of Evo as the third, I thought it was the second? Did someone else nip in for the second?

Malc

 

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