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significant repeats (Read 4237171 times)

remus

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#9975 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 08:55:06 am
Resident knee bar wizard Alex Barrows flashed Le Souffle du Ragga 8b/+ at Peillon yesterday.

Fiend

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#9976 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 08:55:40 am
Oh his poor wee injured fingers  ::) ::) :o

Bradders

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#9977 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 10:56:01 am
All those other hobbies can't be taking up too much time then  :lol:

Adam Lincoln

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#9978 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 01:37:28 pm
He did an 8c+ last week!

abarro81

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#9979 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 02:18:08 pm
I do feel a bit stupid about that thread now... though it was interesting to see the suggestions, and some of them helped me through resting for a few months earlier this year even if they then got ditched. In the end I just gave up on fully fixing the knuckle, and decided to fudge on through with its limitations, which seems to be working pretty well.  :shrug: It's still dodgy but it likes Europe (big holds, knees, not training at the wall  :lol:) and onsight/flash (not having to pull on the same hold too many times)... definitely learnt a lot about what it can and can't tolerate recently. Monos and redpointing/training on small crimps still =  no chance :sick: Actually, training seems way worse than climbing on steep crags full stop, which is interesting, but maybe not entirely surprising. Anyone got any recommendations for 30m+ grit boulders on 45 degree overhanging walls with all big holds for the winter?

Teaboy

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#9980 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 02:39:43 pm
Craig y Longridge

abarro81

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#9981 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 02:49:03 pm
Ha, yeah forgot about that, though is Going Down crimpy on the crux?

teestub

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#9982 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 04:32:55 pm
I do feel a bit stupid about that thread now... though it was interesting to see the suggestions, and some of them helped me through resting for a few months earlier this year even if they then got ditched.

I don’t think there’s anything to feel bad about, you were having a shit time and exploring your options!

Looks like a beautiful holiday location.

Adam Lincoln

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#9983 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 07:01:41 pm
Ha, yeah forgot about that, though is Going Down crimpy on the crux?

It is yes, left hand i seem to remember. Being tall would help a lot. Taller than Ryan

abarro81

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#9984 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 08:04:55 pm
Good knowledge, RH is the bad one so might be okay. Got the being taller than Ry sorted too... Though his span is bigger than mine I think

Ru

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#9985 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 08:39:34 pm
Good knowledge, RH is the bad one so might be okay. Got the being taller than Ry sorted too... Though his span is bigger than mine I think

Neil Carson wasn't that big if I remember.

Adam Lincoln

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#9986 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 08:41:02 pm
Good knowledge, RH is the bad one so might be okay. Got the being taller than Ry sorted too... Though his span is bigger than mine I think

Neil Carson wasn't that big if I remember.

And Ians no giant

Probes

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#9987 Re: significant repeats
October 25, 2021, 08:57:36 pm
I can assure you going down has more than one small left hand crimp on it!!  ;). Having put far too much of my life into that thing, one thing to be sure of is not to go on it with dodgy fingers. And, a big reach is an advantage and equally a disadvantage.
As far as I'm aware it helped Ryan miss the 2nd crux (itself 7c.. which is a cross over with the right to the sharpest rattest crimp on the crag) out but the way he did it was probably harder and virtually impossible without tele-arms. Ryan didn't do it all though did he? A fall from near the end may be?

yetix

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#9988 Re: significant repeats
October 26, 2021, 07:20:18 pm
Toby Roberts has done hubble

mrjonathanr

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#9989 Re: significant repeats
October 26, 2021, 07:22:46 pm
Okay, that’s quite a significant repeat.  :clap2:

Kingy

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#9990 Re: significant repeats
October 26, 2021, 07:48:03 pm
Very fast too. 2 sessions late last year in pretty wet connies and 3 more this year. No kneepad either, old school!   :weakbench: :weakbench:

Wellsy

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#9991 Re: significant repeats
October 26, 2021, 08:26:23 pm
Begun, the wad wars have

Kingy

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#9992 Re: significant repeats
October 27, 2021, 08:17:05 pm
Toby's send footy of Hubble

www.instagram.com/p/CViuQMuoT-3/

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#9993 Re: significant repeats
October 27, 2021, 11:03:24 pm
Lovely.

Will Hunt

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#9994 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2021, 10:08:47 am

Kingy

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#9995 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2021, 10:28:49 am
Is that a knee scum I see?

Just watched the clip back and can't see any contact of knee on rock?

cowboyhat

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#9996 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2021, 10:29:41 am
Looks like because of shin length his knee is getting grazed in that corner anyway, hence the tape.

abarro81

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#9997 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2021, 11:40:01 am
Is that a knee scum I see?

Just watched the clip back and can't see any contact of knee on rock?

Apart from the bit where he rinses his knee into the roof  :lol: if you use high friction tape is it a knee pad  :worms:

Doylo

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#9998 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2021, 11:40:16 am
Must be 9a+ without rubber?

remus

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#9999 Re: significant repeats
October 28, 2021, 11:52:20 am
Must be 9a+ without rubber?

9b with vaseline.

 

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