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significant repeats (Read 4233307 times)

dunnyg

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#9950 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2021, 08:56:18 am
No need to go on about it ed  :smart:

NaoB

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#9951 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2021, 10:50:57 am
I'm such a ukb punter   :oops:

edshakey

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#9952 Re: significant repeats
October 12, 2021, 10:56:47 am
No need to go on about it ed  :smart:

I was halfway through typing a sentence with it and thought it was coming across as unnecessarily sarcastic so just left it blank. In hindsight, it seemed I achieved that anyway - apologies NaoB!

I'm such a ukb punter   :oops:

Speedy shark can catch out anyone

duncan

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#9953 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 06:58:56 am
Matty Hong has made the second ascent of Flex Luthor, Tommy Caldwell’s 2003 route at the Fortress of Solitude, Colorado. Hong thinks it’s 9b which - if confirmed, caveats about holds changing - makes it one of the first of the grade anywhere: https://www.instagram.com/p/CU8unzKjmLj/?utm_medium=copy_link

teestub

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#9954 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 08:24:17 am
That’s awesome! It’s cool that this and Jumbo Love sound to have quite arduous approaches, seems mad that there’s no roadside 9b’s in the US, maybe the rock at Rifle doesn’t lend itself?

jwi

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#9955 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 11:20:04 am
It lends itself to doctoring perhaps?

Duncan campbell

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#9956 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 12:32:56 pm
Matty Hong has made the second ascent of Flex Luthor, Tommy Caldwell’s 2003 route at the Fortress of Solitude, Colorado. Hong thinks it’s 9b which - if confirmed, caveats about holds changing - makes it one of the first of the grade anywhere: https://www.instagram.com/p/CU8unzKjmLj/?utm_medium=copy_link

Can we not give it a slash grade? Maybe depending on how many fingers you have?

SA Chris

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#9957 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 12:54:56 pm

Can we not give it a slash grade? Maybe depending on how many fingers you have slashed off?

Duncan campbell

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#9958 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 03:24:21 pm
On a more serious note I thought this was at rifle but have just realised it’s not  :slap:

how does American limestone compare to euro stuff? Is it as good? This looks cool in that pic. Did you go barrows or were your spindly legs only able to carry you to rifle crags?  :P

Mainly asking out of morbid curiosity than anything else

SA Chris

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#9959 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 03:43:28 pm
Clark Mtn where Jumbo L is is lime too, as is the stuff in N Arizona / S Utah, and Shelf Road CO etc.

In spite of climbing over there a fair bit, given the amount of lime on our doorstep in Europe, I studiously avoided any of the lime crags.   

abarro81

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#9960 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 03:47:12 pm
It's fairly near Rifle but we didn't go.. I would love to - Kryptonite looks awesome - but it sounded like a right pain, in part because there's not loads there so unless you have others psyched to try Kryptonite or this then it's not easy to get a psyched partner. Seemed too mean to try to drag Ella up there (I think ~1hr drive + 1hr walk from Rifle) when we knew very little about the stuff up there for her and I would be projecting. Gets lots of sun too, so the season can be quite awkward - one local said that best conditions were often when it was cold, but sometimes that would mean you'd struggle to get there because of snow. If we go back to Colorado for another trip I'll put more effort into getting info and trying to tempt Ella!

Rifle is blocky choss but very fun blocky choss (actually plenty of it is good quality rock). If you want immaculate aesthetic Verdon/Ceuse-esque sweeping walls then it might not be ideal. It's a bit like if Winspit and Kilnsey had a bunch of babies and then fed them human growth hormone, and only allowed them to wear kneepads, if you can visualise that  ;) I enjoyed it because there are fun vert warm-ups/mileage but also steep, thuggy pump routes. Lots of tricks (knees, heels etc). Very easy scene (friendly, roadside, camping is 2min away though no running water). All in all, not a zone that makes you go "wow", but a lot of fun.

Southern Utah limestone looks fun if you like steep stuff (hurricave, cathedral etc) - I'd really like to go there at some point too. I think they are developing lots of new lime sport crags near Vegas too

Coops_13

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#9961 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 03:52:41 pm
Haven't been to any of them (avoided sport since I moved here) but Mt. Charleston is the name of the Vegas place - looks pretty good and has some bouldering that looks similar to the cova de l'Ocell caves in Spain. It's higher so think might be the summer area to contrast Red Rock...

abarro81

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#9962 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 04:06:26 pm
Is the 5G wall up at Mt Charleston too or is that elsewhere?

Coops_13

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#9963 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2021, 05:09:51 pm
Is the 5G wall up at Mt Charleston too or is that elsewhere?
I think it's up a different mountain but similar area

duncan

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#9964 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2021, 12:11:28 pm
Matty Hong has made the second ascent of Flex Luthor...

Decent interview with Hong from Gripped magazine. Still unclear if the 2021 route is very different from the 2003 version. Caldwell has been making the right noises about having another look, hopefully this will happen before the place gets snowed-in.

Nibile

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#9965 Re: significant repeats
October 18, 2021, 12:31:04 pm
Laura Rogora onsighted 8b+ and 8b in the same morning here in Tuscany.
She doesn't seem to make a big deal of that, given that she only published an Instagram status or something like that.
She also says hi.

Bradders

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#9966 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2021, 10:09:00 am
Will Bosi apparently did Foundations Edge 8C in about 2 hours recently:

https://woguclimbing.com/will-bosi-lo-parte-en-suiza-preparando-temporada/

remus

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#9967 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2021, 10:25:44 am
Rest of his ticklist is pretty respectable too https://www.instagram.com/p/CVPqV0LDp8-/

Wellsy

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#9968 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2021, 10:39:37 am
That's bloody impressive. Truly world class.

Bradders

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#9969 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2021, 11:54:41 am
Just a thought; obviously amazing to see Will and Aidan doing all these hard boulders lately, however, serious question, what have they done on grit?

Seriously... I know Will's done The Ace, which is maybe the most basic of the grit 8Bs. Any others? Has Aidan done any of them?

Just curious.  :popcorn:

JJP

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#9970 Re: significant repeats
October 20, 2021, 05:36:15 pm
What an amazing trip and ticklist - always thought foundations edge looked incredible. 

edshakey

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#9971 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2021, 01:43:21 pm
Es Pontas for Jakob, after Alasha a week or two back.

Pretty much completed DWS then?

Ged

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#9972 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2021, 06:13:58 pm
Es Pontas for Jakob, after Alasha a week or two back.

Pretty much completed DWS then?

Not until he's done the Conger, naked and pissed.

Kingy

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#9973 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2021, 07:05:50 pm
Seriously... I know Will's done The Ace, which is maybe the most basic of the grit 8Bs. Any others? Has Aidan done any of them?

Just curious.  :popcorn:

I don't know to be honest. I haven't heard much about them doing hard grit problems, they mostly seem to do igneous or lime when in this country. I reckon they wouldn't be troubled much by the brown stuff!

Wood FT

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#9974 Re: significant repeats
October 21, 2021, 08:08:50 pm
Es Pontas for Jakob, after Alasha a week or two back.

Pretty much completed DWS then?

Not until he's done the Conger, naked and pissed.

Go on…

 

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