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significant repeats (Read 4234909 times)

Wood FT

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#9800 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 10:13:45 pm
Ghisolfi has to be considered a serious contender for best sport climber in the world really. I mean how many 9b+s are there? Vasil Vasil, Change, Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura, and he's done half of them (and all the ones he's tried) plus now Bibliographie and his own 9b/+ too. That's more than Megos and almost as many as Ondra, and he's also had a better time of it in comps recently.

Hope he goes to Flatanger again and does Silence.

Does onsighting not count for anything these days?  :whistle:

I hear that

edshakey

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#9801 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 10:14:02 pm


Definitely looks that way, he's got a good depth of stuff in the 9b area too https://climbing-history.org/climber/495/stefano-ghisolfi

I'd say Adam still pips him to the post based on stuff he's done previously but Stefano looks on great form a the moment.

The only boulder problem listed for him on that site is at the Tor!

Anyone know what else he got up to on that trip?

Wellsy

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#9802 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 10:31:20 pm
Ghisolfi has to be considered a serious contender for best sport climber in the world really. I mean how many 9b+s are there? Vasil Vasil, Change, Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura, and he's done half of them (and all the ones he's tried) plus now Bibliographie and his own 9b/+ too. That's more than Megos and almost as many as Ondra, and he's also had a better time of it in comps recently.

Hope he goes to Flatanger again and does Silence.

Does onsighting not count for anything these days?  :whistle:

I dunno how good Ghisolfi is at onsighting but I assume he's pretty nails cos of his comp success.

Ondra's onsighting and flashes are amazing though for sure.

teestub

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#9803 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 10:39:26 pm

Anyone know what else he got up to on that trip?

According to his spraysheet he did Jerry’s Traverse at the plantation and not a lot else! Graeme might be able to tell us how he did in the CWIF

https://www.8a.nu/user/stefano-ghisolfi-iixzv/sportclimbing

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#9804 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 12:20:24 pm
According to his FB account, he’s suggesting a down grade to 9b+…

 :popcorn:

James Malloch

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#9805 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 12:22:58 pm
Waddage. Will be interesting to see what he says on the grade, haven't been keeping track but seems like he polished it off pretty quickly compared to Megos (who spent ~60 days on it).

His latest IG post says he took 25 days (similar to change and less than Perfecto Mundo). Also found some new beta for both crux.

He thinks it’s in the same range as those and to be given 9c would require a bigger step up from other 9b+.

So the jury is out.

Wellsy

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#9806 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 12:41:24 pm
Ooh drama, exciting

Doylo

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#9807 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 12:57:51 pm
Megos prob campussed it.

spidermonkey09

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#9808 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 01:14:34 pm
Seems very clear he thinks its 9b+ and Megos was using a duff sequence. #biggradesforbadbeta

teestub

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#9809 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 01:17:14 pm
First 9c downgrader, waddage!

spidermonkey09

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#9810 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 01:21:44 pm
First 9c downgrader, waddage!

Frankly I'm astonished it wasn't Bouin! Maybe he'll up the ante and say its 9b or something.

remus

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#9811 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 01:29:06 pm
First 9c downgrader, waddage!

Frankly I'm astonished it wasn't Bouin! Maybe he'll up the ante and say its 9b/+ or something.

Gotta have the slash, it's the official Bouin grade of choice.

Teaboy

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#9812 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 02:58:24 pm
First 9c downgrader, waddage!

Frankly I'm astonished it wasn't Bouin! Maybe he'll up the ante and say its 9b/+ or something.

Gotta have the slash, it's the official Bouin grade of choice.

Malcolm Smith’s comment on Insta:

“Excited to see whether Seb thinks it’s 9b/9b+ or 9b+/9c”

remus

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#9813 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 03:06:15 pm
Emma Twyford has onsight/flashed (not clear from the DMM post but sounds like it was more towards the OS end) Always the Sun E7 in pembroke.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CTCfdqAjEpW/

Bradders

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#9814 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2021, 04:12:21 pm
Seems very clear he thinks its 9b+ and Megos was using a duff sequence. #biggradesforbadbeta

Does that mean that Megos did still climb 9c though?  :worms:

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#9815 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2021, 03:47:38 pm
Great stuff from Stefano, have really enjoyed his Youtube videos and entertaining commentary.

Also well done EmmaTwy, onsighting/flashing is goooood mmmkay.

edshakey

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#9816 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2021, 07:19:28 pm
8b+ flash for Jakob on Anam Cara

His third flash of the grade! Not bad for a route climber...



Painful looking fall on the 8b at 1:50  :'(

Fiend

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#9817 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2021, 08:11:46 pm
Good stuff! Harmonising your hair colour with both the rock and pads is obviously the way....

SA Chris

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#9818 Re: significant repeats
August 27, 2021, 10:02:20 pm
1:42 pad dab.

webbo

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edshakey

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#9820 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2021, 12:26:03 am
1:42 pad dab.

..... but then he drops off? And the uncut send footage comes after a few more painful looking falls

I had the same split second reaction, gotta keep watching before making the big dab call

cowboyhat

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#9821 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2021, 08:10:42 am
Shout out to the fucking annoying camera cheerleader, it's like Chad Greedy has learned German.

remus

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#9822 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2021, 08:24:28 am
Josh Ibbertson repeated Northern lights at Kilnsey yesterday for his second 9a.

Bradders

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#9823 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2021, 08:26:04 am
Josh Ibbotson - Northern Lights on Friday. Mega effort and persistence. Watched him get so, so close a couple of weeks ago, being maybe one foot move from success, so great to see he was able to get it over the line this season.

Edit - ha remus beat me to it

webbo

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#9824 Re: significant repeats
August 28, 2021, 10:22:41 am
Shout out to the fucking annoying camera cheerleader, it's like Chad Greedy has learned German.
It’s amazing how he’s managed to win world cups etc with out someone telling him when to crimp.

 

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