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significant repeats (Read 4235852 times)

Wil

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#9750 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 06:54:23 pm
FWIW I thought Boss Hogg was much harder than Ghost Train and From a Distance. Both of which I O/Sd, but couldn't even get started on BH.

I've done FaD, I don't have enough experience to really comment on grade (and I headpointed it) but... I did it, which make me lean towards E6. Same for Yukan II. What you say about the threads makes sense, it would feel a lot harder with the thread even slightly out of reach (it was maybe a foot long when I did it, I could reach it at a stretch before the hard move). I've also been on Boss Hogg on a toprope, it felt a lot harder to me and while there is good gear placing it can't be easy.

Steve Crowe

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#9751 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 07:32:48 pm
Quick research has yielded:



"Karen Magog, Lucy Creamer and Glenda have all onsighted E7" from a 2003 UKC post, but no more details to back it up that I can see


Karin has written about some of her climbing achievements on my website
here…

https://climbonline.co.uk/2020/05/02/climbing-is-my-passion-by-karin-magog/

Fiend

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#9752 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 07:37:52 pm
#climbing_is_my_passion down with the insta-kids eh :lol: :lol:

edshakey

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#9753 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 07:47:05 pm
Cheers for that Steve, I was looking for some more info on the ascents but could only find old dead links. Makes for an hugely impressive read

i_a_coops

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#9754 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 08:00:59 pm
Info on Lucy Creamer's ascents of Point Blank and From A Distance here:

https://dmmclimbing.com/Journal/July-2015/Point-Blank-(E8-6c)-hit-for-Lucy-Creamer


TLDR: She didn't quite onsight From A Distance, sounds like she got close, but IMO much more impressively, when she did Point Blank she forgot the crucial cam so lowered down a loop of rope to tag it up from the shakeout before the traverse - and that shake out isn't actually very chill unless you're reasonably tall (5'9 ish maybe to reach the good footholds - I'm definitely a touch too short at 5'8!)

Kingy

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#9755 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2021, 11:35:30 am
9a at 51  :strongbench: :strongbench:

www.8a.nu/news/pure-dreaming-9a-by-alfredo-webber-51-9b7gc

Edit: Megos thinks it is 8c+ from his video of the climb on his Youtube channel "My personal option about the grade is rather 8c+ than 9a." Still a bloody good effort!!

Duma

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#9756 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2021, 09:00:00 pm
Roz Frugtniet did Full Tilt on Fri. Urgent Action on Sat. Free Monster on Sun.

Not a bad weekend really.

edshakey

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#9757 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2021, 10:19:26 pm
Another E7 flash for Hazel - Heart of Stone (Gallt Yr Ogof).

Having struggled to come up with many E7 female flashes a few weeks ago in this thread, now there's another straight away!

Duma

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#9758 Re: significant repeats
July 26, 2021, 09:51:37 am
Not a repeat, but Caff doing Dawes' Tesseract project at the weekend is pretty significant to those who can remember birth of extreme!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CRwGjwMFS5t/?utm_medium=copy_link

Bradders

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#9759 Re: significant repeats
July 26, 2021, 11:35:06 am
We need a "Significant FAs" thread

Duma

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#9760 Re: significant repeats
July 26, 2021, 11:43:07 am
Yeah sorry, probably deserved its own thread.

Adam Lincoln

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#9761 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 09:12:05 pm
Josh Ibbo did Wonderwall yesterday. Was given 8b for years but people trying it last year seem to think maybe 8c.

This is the first repeat. Was talk of font 8a in french 8a+\b from peeps last year.

Josh is on the fence at 8b+\c

Fiend

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#9762 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 09:17:04 pm
Where?

remus

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#9763 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 09:18:58 pm
This unrepeated Ian Vickers number at Yew Cogar I assume https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/yew_cogar-1342/wonderwall-153112

Adam Lincoln

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#9764 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 09:20:28 pm

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#9765 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 10:12:46 pm
That's a route that's fascinated me for years. I had a few seasons at Cogur, during a time when Nik Jennings and Rob Haigh were trying it. Every week the probable grade would go up.  Their descriptions were really evocative - hard move into hard move, without enough respite to chalk, even on the slabby parts. I vaguely recall they pulled off a hold that they thought made it impossible, not sure if the hold was ever glued.

Possibly apocryphal, but I've been told Vickers was going to give it 8a+ but it was pointed out that it'd taken weeks of work, and he'd rinsed Northern Lights (8c) in half a session.  So he relented and gave it 8b!   

remus

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#9766 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 10:32:36 pm
 :lol: That's an ace story! I guess you mean True North though? Pretty sure he never did Northern Lights.

Adam Lincoln

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#9767 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 11:01:57 pm
:lol: That's an ace story! I guess you mean True North though? Pretty sure he never did Northern Lights.

The best story about the route is this one.

When Rob Haigh pulled the jug off he took it home for safe keeping so it didn't get lost. Time went on and he ended up putting it in a vase on the mantlepiece.

Short time later Rob  was burgled and the vase was stolen and so too it the Wonderwall hold.

True story.

robertostallioni

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#9768 Re: significant repeats
July 28, 2021, 11:09:49 pm
true dat.
:lol: That's an ace story! I guess you mean True North though? Pretty sure he never did Northern Lights.
yeah, was true north.
Wonderwall is such a good route. Hard boulder off the deck and then just relentless. The middle shield was always a little friable and footholds were scrittly and I pulled a sidepull edge off that you do a long pull off, going to this cauliflower thing. We stuck it back on and after NIk had swung about on it I pulled it off again and we just never went back.
The edge then sat in my loose change bowl for about 8 years, till I got burglarised and they took my bowl, edge and all!
Ladies and gentlemen of the jury, may I present the accused - Ibbo!
Dunno if a replacement has subsequently been manufactured? or perhaps an alternate sequence found? I'd love to see footage of the ascent as the moves were ace.
felt a full grade harder than something like Unjustified to me.
Very glad Josh has done it. What a weapon!  :strongbench:

jwi

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#9769 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 08:39:45 am
Seb Berthe has repeated Edu Marin's Arco Iris (200m, 8c+ max) in Montserrat. Berthe confirms the grade of the hardest pitch after having taken a 25m fall while working the route.

https://www.grimper.com/news-seb-berthe-offre-arco-iris-200m-8c-max

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#9770 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:18:34 am
Aidan on a tear in wales again, Wedgie, DnB and everything at the gop in a session barring one low start. I think the gop session alone is 9 8th grade boulders.

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#9771 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:28:31 am
Aidan on a tear in wales again, Wedgie, DnB and everything at the gop in a session barring one low start. I think the gop session alone is 9 8th grade boulders.

New low start to Hustled at 8B as well https://www.instagram.com/p/CRv7D2eDPnu/

I wonder whether he'd be keen for a look at Gaskins' Problem on pill box wall  :-\

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#9772 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:33:23 am
Aidan on a tear in wales again, Wedgie, DnB and everything at the gop in a session barring one low start. I think the gop session alone is 9 8th grade boulders.

How long did wedgie take him out of curiosity??

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#9773 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:37:32 am
Didn’t do it in a session. He’d been on it before and split. I think it may have been one of the days he had sunstroke. Imagine if he had good tactics. He could be decent.

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#9774 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:41:51 am
Aidan on a tear in wales again, Wedgie, DnB and everything at the gop in a session barring one low start. I think the gop session alone is 9 8th grade boulders.

DnB = Dead and Bloated?

 

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