UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4233000 times)

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2814
  • Karma: +159/-4
#9725 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2021, 09:26:41 am
Ted Kingsnorth has done Progress 8c+ at Kilnsey after a mighty siege spread over several seasons. Great effort!

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#9726 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2021, 10:22:56 am
 :strongbench: :strongbench:

Wood FT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2951
  • Karma: +162/-8
#9727 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2021, 05:50:13 pm
Well done, Ted!

Andy F

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1985
  • Karma: +129/-13
  • Ex-ex-climber
#9728 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2021, 05:57:05 pm
Well done Ted. Excellent siege skills.

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1676
  • Karma: +76/-2
#9729 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2021, 12:41:57 am
Cheers guys! Onto pastures new, time for some new challengers, great scene on North Buttress at the mo...

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#9730 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2021, 09:59:26 am
Nice write up on 8a.nu Ted and happy birthday!

https://www.8a.nu/news/progress-8c+-by-ted-kingsnorth-44

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29220
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#9731 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2021, 10:22:36 am
Effort Youth  :)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29220
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#9732 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2021, 09:43:46 am
Looks like Vadim Timonov did the Finnish Line on his first day at Rocklands.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQ9HxOHjfUb/

edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 527
  • Karma: +29/-0
#9733 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 09:56:24 am
Hazel has flashed Surreal Appeal, E7 at Rhoscolyn
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRGYGnbr-hg/

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#9734 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 11:29:52 am
Good effort, sounds like less than ideal conditions too.

Don't think there's many british women who've flashed or onsighted E7 before? Lucy creamer did Boss Hogg which could get E7 depending on who you ask.

edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 527
  • Karma: +29/-0
#9735 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:23:20 pm
Quick research has yielded:

Emma Twyford flashed Yukan II (potentially soft E7) and Bucket Dynasty (seems now established as E7) in 2014

"Karen Magog, Lucy Creamer and Glenda have all onsighted E7" from a 2003 UKC post, but no more details to back it up that I can see

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#9736 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:25:23 pm
If only we had someone on here who was good at collating records of hard UK climbing ascents....  :-\

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#9737 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:31:30 pm
Lucy creamer did Boss Hogg which could get E7 depending on who you ask.

No chance - says who?

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#9738 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:41:28 pm
Lucy creamer did Boss Hogg which could get E7 depending on who you ask.

No chance - says who?

I think it was a BMC interview that had it down as E7? Gets E6 on UKC though, and all votes are for E6.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#9739 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:46:34 pm
If only we had someone on here who was good at collating records of hard UK climbing ascents....  :-\

Working on it! Unfortunately listification is a slow business, particularly as we start looking at more niche subject areas.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#9740 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:49:36 pm
Quick research has yielded:

Emma Twyford flashed Yukan II (potentially soft E7) and Bucket Dynasty (seems now established as E7) in 2014

"Karen Magog, Lucy Creamer and Glenda have all onsighted E7" from a 2003 UKC post, but no more details to back it up that I can see

Good skills. I think yukan ii is considered E6 these days? Caff reckons bucket dynasty is E7 so that's good enough for me.

Karin's got a couple under her belt by the looks of it, and Glenda's onsighted The Bells! The Bells! Anyone got any knowledge on whether Lucy has onsighted a less contentions E7 than boss hogg?

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#9741 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:52:00 pm

I think it was a BMC interview that had it down as E7? Gets E6 on UKC though, and all votes are for E6.

On a similar subject I belayed a woman on Sunday who rinsed Aberration which features regularly on your strong lady list. She says she’s done harder 7c’s…

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#9742 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 01:37:41 pm

I think it was a BMC interview that had it down as E7? Gets E6 on UKC though, and all votes are for E6.

On a similar subject I belayed a woman on Sunday who rinsed Aberration which features regularly on your strong lady list. She says she’s done harder 7c’s…

I'll add it to the "downgrade the peak's most popular soft touches (starring keen roof)" todo list.

What's her full name by the way? Sounds like someone missing from the list!

mr chaz

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 452
  • Karma: +59/-0
#9743 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 01:53:03 pm


I'll add it to the "downgrade the peak's most popular soft touches (starring keen roof)" todo list.



Would look remarkably similar to my 'to do' list

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29220
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#9744 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 02:35:49 pm
Glenda's onsighted The Bells! The Bells!

And I seem to remember A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade too.

edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 527
  • Karma: +29/-0
#9745 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 02:37:44 pm
Quick research has yielded:

Emma Twyford flashed Yukan II (potentially soft E7) and Bucket Dynasty (seems now established as E7) in 2014

"Karen Magog, Lucy Creamer and Glenda have all onsighted E7" from a 2003 UKC post, but no more details to back it up that I can see

Good skills. I think yukan ii is considered E6 these days? Caff reckons bucket dynasty is E7 so that's good enough for me.

Karin's got a couple under her belt by the looks of it, and Glenda's onsighted The Bells! The Bells! Anyone got any knowledge on whether Lucy has onsighted a less contentions E7 than boss hogg?


Turns out Emma has also flashed Gravity Wave, E8, in 2016.


Edit:: apparently Lucy also did Ghost Train in Pembroke (onsight rather than flash ?), but that has since settled at E6
« Last Edit: July 09, 2021, 02:46:24 pm by edshakey »

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#9746 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 04:34:31 pm

I'll add it to the "downgrade the peak's most popular soft touches (starring keen roof)" todo list.

 :lol:

Quote
What's her full name by the way? Sounds like someone missing from the list!

Ewa Rams but she’s Polish

El Mocho

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 629
  • Karma: +148/-1
#9747 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 05:21:57 pm
Quick research has yielded:

Emma Twyford flashed Yukan II (potentially soft E7) and Bucket Dynasty (seems now established as E7) in 2014

"Karen Magog, Lucy Creamer and Glenda have all onsighted E7" from a 2003 UKC post, but no more details to back it up that I can see

Good skills. I think yukan ii is considered E6 these days? Caff reckons bucket dynasty is E7 so that's good enough for me.

Karin's got a couple under her belt by the looks of it, and Glenda's onsighted The Bells! The Bells! Anyone got any knowledge on whether Lucy has onsighted a less contentions E7 than boss hogg?


Turns out Emma has also flashed Gravity Wave, E8, in 2016.


Edit:: apparently Lucy also did Ghost Train in Pembroke (onsight rather than flash ?), but that has since settled at E6

There was a period in between Pembroke guides when Boss Hogg was talked about being E7, and Ghost Train the same/got E7. I think your right to say both are more like E6 - Boss Hogg is pretty punchy but the gear is good, although not totally sinker, takes a little skill from a pumpy position to place, but mid to hard E6 seems fair. I have a feeling Ghost Train may have been given E7 when the sling at the end of the runout was not in place - it had a bunch of drilled thread runners from Gary and the original (non-drilled gear) description talked about a hard move at the end of the runout to reach the flake and then gear which would fit with this thread not being there. It would def be E7 like that. I climbed them both at a similar period to Lucy and the sling was in place then. Funnily enough I've just had an email from Mike Owen so I could ask him.

When Glenda osed Bells I think she had the high, high thread runner clipped up and left of the Cad flake, the gear before the trav right on the Bells is pretty poor. I've not done the Bells, the whole wall terrifies me so I have no experience on this. I'm not meaning to be putting a downer on all these climbs and climbers, they are all great, hard climbs and good on sights whatever the grade but also I think it's good to show Hazels recent ascent, and Emmas flash of Gravity Waves as how outstanding they are (and obv's Karens and Glendas other E7s even more so)

Did Lu do From a Distance? And is this still considered E7?

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#9748 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 06:01:19 pm
Excellent knowledge as per usual, thanks everyone. Emma's flash of Gravity Wave is particularly impressive!


When Glenda osed Bells I think she had the high, high thread runner clipped up and left of the Cad flake, the gear before the trav right on the Bells is pretty poor. I've not done the Bells, the whole wall terrifies me so I have no experience on this. I'm not meaning to be putting a downer on all these climbs and climbers, they are all great, hard climbs and good on sights whatever the grade but also I think it's good to show Hazels recent ascent, and Emmas flash of Gravity Waves as how outstanding they are (and obv's Karens and Glendas other E7s even more so)

I think there's a Jam Crack where Nick Bullock talks a bit about Glenda's ascent of The bells. He seemed suitably impressed (and not that convinced that the side runner she used was actually up to much) which to me is a decent argument for E7.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2021, 06:07:10 pm by remus »

ali k

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 944
  • Karma: +38/-1
#9749 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 06:35:37 pm
Emma Twyford flashed Yukan II (potentially soft E7)
Good skills. I think yukan ii is considered E6 these days?
Probably even soft for E6. Maybe top end E5? Everyone I know that's climbed it thought it was a joke at E7 - even by Nessy standards  :lol:

I have a feeling Ghost Train may have been given E7 when the sling at the end of the runout was not in place - it had a bunch of drilled thread runners from Gary and the original (non-drilled gear) description talked about a hard move at the end of the runout to reach the flake and then gear which would fit with this thread not being there. It would def be E7 like that.
Yep that sounds right. Totally different proposition.

Quote
Did Lu do From a Distance? And is this still considered E7?
I thought she O/Sd this. Not sure which year she did it but there was period a while ago when the threads at the end of the traverse had been extended so much you could clip them before doing a hard set of moves upwards (I'm talking over a metre long!). Maybe that was when Point Blank had become popular? Anyway, def E6 like that. Haven't been down in a few years so I don't know if they've been cut/shortened again now. Think they were extended after she’d first done it cos I remember her commenting on them on a re-visit.

FWIW I thought Boss Hogg was much harder than Ghost Train and From a Distance. Both of which I O/Sd, but couldn't even get started on BH.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2021, 06:42:28 pm by ali k »

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal